Tbi to vortec heads

[kennythewelder]

Take this from someone who has been there. Save your money until you can afford to do it right. Your truck isn't broken just weak. Find out why it is weak first. Do a compression check, check fuel pressure while it is running in the upper rpms where your truck is struggling and under the same load, check the timing, throw a vacuum gauge on it and see if you have 18+" of steady vacuum. Clean your throttle body. So far you have just used tools that if you are around vehicles you should buy anyway. Now spend a couple of bucks to have someone knowledgeable with GM OBD1 red the data stream. A problem now that isn't directly engine related will effect your cam/head swap and just cost you more money that you won't have.
Once you have confirmed that your truck is at 100% then and only then, drop some cash on a Vortec core engine. I will never do a flat tappet cam again if there is an option for a roller. With the removal of ZDDP from the oils of today it is just too easy to wipe a lobe off of a cam. I have always hated a 20-30 minute break in of a cam as well. Just really unnerving even though I know what I'm doing. A roller cam has less friction, will wind quicker and be more efficient/powerful for similar specs. Vortec heads are good but with the cost of heads (and potential machine work) , a manifold, adapter, fluids and gaskets you can easily exceed $500. Someone here will argue that it can be done cheaper and it can but you have you buy good deals which takes time. If you set aside $100-$150 a month you can afford a $200-300 core engine, have the heads rebuilt, have a machine shop check the block, assemble it yourself with basic quality oil pump, rings, bearings and gaskets and do a nice mild cam with the vortec intake. You can build this on a budget in a year or less. Once your engine is ready find a buyer for your current engine because it is worth more running. Take that money and buy the extras for the swap like fluids, belt, new thermostat, hoses and I always do a water pump as well.
That is my 2 cents.

I couldn't have said it better. That's why I posted the link to PMCmachine.com, With the options today for an engine builder to do a quality job at a good price, it just makes more sense to get an engine from a good builder that does that for a living. I have nothing to gain from posting about PMC, I just have looked at my own options, and I know someone who has put one of these in his 98 and it is impressive.

 

[MDYLANP]

I know that the 87 up blocks have everything needed for the rollers but I was under the assumption that they weren't drilled or tapped but I could be completely wrong. If they are drilled and everything, what's involved with putting in the parts? Do I need to pull the motor to do this? Because I'd really like to stay away from pulling everything out. I'd rather stick to more or less bolt ons. But I think my gearing at 3.73 with 33's is right where it needs to be. I have a guy selling me a rcx 6" when he starts his sas so I'm putting off regearing until I step up in tire size. And I'm hoping to avoid changing the tc unless it's just absolutely important for the gains I'm going to be getting.

 

[MDYLANP]

I agree that a full engine swap, top to bottom built would be the BEST way to go. But I'm looking for moderate gains out of a simple swap. Just bolt the parts on, get her data logged and tuned, then have a little fun out with my buddies in my ole "slow" heavy chevy haha. Then once she gives out on me, it's on to bigger and better things haha.

 

[98_k1500]

Stall converter would wake it up more than anything mentioned above^^... Ran a 2500 in my 98 for a while and a corvette servo kit. really woke it up until i popped the planetary gears.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I know that the 87 up blocks have everything needed for the rollers but I was under the assumption that they weren't drilled or tapped but I could be completely wrong. If they are drilled and everything, what's involved with putting in the parts? Do I need to pull the motor to do this? Because I'd really like to stay away from pulling everything out. I'd rather stick to more or less bolt ons. But I think my gearing at 3.73 with 33's is right where it needs to be. I have a guy selling me a rcx 6" when he starts his sas so I'm putting off regearing until I step up in tire size. And I'm hoping to avoid changing the tc unless it's just absolutely important for the gains I'm going to be getting.

I believe you need the spider, lifters, pushrods from a roller block, and either a cam button or roller timing cover. The motor can stay in

 

[TylerZ281500]

i just picked up a whole roller set for 35 bukc slol just needed the pushrods but basically lifters, pushrods, lifted guid plates spider tray , camshaft retainer and thats it

they are drilled, or all of them ive seen have been.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

i just picked up a whole roller set for 35 bukc slol just needed the pushrods but basically lifters, pushrods, lifted guid plates spider tray , camshaft retainer and thats it

they are drilled, or all of them ive seen have been.

You don't need a roller cover to use the retainer?

 

[MDYLANP]

Anyone know where to get a kit with all the parts to go roller then? If it's easy and the motor can stay in without tearing down everything else I'm all ears if it's worth the cost.

 

[TylerZ281500]

You don't need a roller cover to use the retainer?

lifted gide plates and spider tray is your roller cover

 

[TylerZ281500]

Anyone know where to get a kit with all the parts to go roller then? If it's easy and the motor can stay in without tearing down everything else I'm all ears if it's worth the cost.

best to find it out f another motor otherwise try to piece it together at the parts tore, the premade kits are expensive