Tbi to vortec heads

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MDYLANP

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Ok so I have read, and read, and read, and read about this swap. This is what my situation is. I have a 95 Z71 tbi. It is an absolute dog when I put it to the floor. Sure she slings a lot of mud and never leaves me stranded in any hole I put her in. But ole bessy is just down right slow haha. I need more horses haha. I don't need a race truck by any means and don't have the extreme budget to build one. What I do have is a shop full of tools, another daily driver while this one is down, and a truck that needs to go faster easier haha. I'm thinking the vortec head and a cam swap is all I'm looking for right now. Obviously I want the most out of the cam/head swap as I can the first time to do this. Do it once and be done. So far I know I'll need, the heads, cam, different intake, tune, fuel pump, possibly a fuel pressure regulator, and the tbi mods. I don't have any sort of inspections where I'm from so I'm not worried about the egr unless I have to be. Basically I want a straightforward list of what works, what is easiest, and most sure fire way to get a few ponies for a few bucks. I want the tried and true, one and done, best bang for my buck, solution to getting her rolling with my buddies newer trucks and still run on pump has obviously haha.
 

MDYLANP

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Any help, shortcuts, tips, new findings, conflicting opinions, are all welcome. I am hear to get ideas and I'm all ears. This is just what seems to be the right path for me at this time.
 

MDYLANP

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And I definitely want to keep my stock brakes for now as well as not play with the transmission for the time being. And the cam will have to be flat because I simply can't afford to go roller at this point.
 

kennythewelder

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Summit has a set of Vortec heads that has been modified to fit a cam. Stock Vortec heads can only except a small cam. I think these heads are around $350. If you are going that far into the engine though, what about a crate engine ? I know someone who did a swap in his 98 vortec 5.7 with one of these engines, and its a beast. 370 h.p. and a 7 year warranty for about $2700 is hard to beat. http://pmcmachine.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35
 

skylark

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Take this from someone who has been there. Save your money until you can afford to do it right. Your truck isn't broken just weak. Find out why it is weak first. Do a compression check, check fuel pressure while it is running in the upper rpms where your truck is struggling and under the same load, check the timing, throw a vacuum gauge on it and see if you have 18+" of steady vacuum. Clean your throttle body. So far you have just used tools that if you are around vehicles you should buy anyway. Now spend a couple of bucks to have someone knowledgeable with GM OBD1 red the data stream. A problem now that isn't directly engine related will effect your cam/head swap and just cost you more money that you won't have.
Once you have confirmed that your truck is at 100% then and only then, drop some cash on a Vortec core engine. I will never do a flat tappet cam again if there is an option for a roller. With the removal of ZDDP from the oils of today it is just too easy to wipe a lobe off of a cam. I have always hated a 20-30 minute break in of a cam as well. Just really unnerving even though I know what I'm doing. A roller cam has less friction, will wind quicker and be more efficient/powerful for similar specs. Vortec heads are good but with the cost of heads (and potential machine work) , a manifold, adapter, fluids and gaskets you can easily exceed $500. Someone here will argue that it can be done cheaper and it can but you have you buy good deals which takes time. If you set aside $100-$150 a month you can afford a $200-300 core engine, have the heads rebuilt, have a machine shop check the block, assemble it yourself with basic quality oil pump, rings, bearings and gaskets and do a nice mild cam with the vortec intake. You can build this on a budget in a year or less. Once your engine is ready find a buyer for your current engine because it is worth more running. Take that money and buy the extras for the swap like fluids, belt, new thermostat, hoses and I always do a water pump as well.
That is my 2 cents.
 

skylark

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Summit has a set of Vortec heads that has been modified to fit a cam. Stock Vortec heads can only except a small cam. I think these heads are around $350. If you are going that far into the engine though, what about a crate engine ? I know someone who did a swap in his 98 vortec 5.7 with one of these engines, and its a beast. 370 h.p. and a 7 year warranty for about $2700 is hard to beat. http://pmcmachine.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35

The summit heads are $339.50 each.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-151124
 

MDYLANP

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See I'm definitely not into doing an entire engine swap. That's just too much for what I have in mind. And she is already well maintained and running like she is supposed to from gm, these trucks are just pretty darn slow haha. I'm sure y'all already know haha. I am just planning on casually looking for some nice heads, picking up an intake and adapter online, with a matching cam. I definitely agree that roller is the way to go, I just really can't see pulling the entire motor to get the block tapped and then buying all the other parts and building it. I think a flat tappet can be ok with a zinc additive in the oil right? I'm not necessarily looking for the maximum hp I could get out of this set up, just the simplest, bang for my buck, weekend project once I get the parts together. I'm not afraid of being wrong or open to other ideas. I'm just really asking if I'm headed in the right direction to get some fairly easy horses for a truck that will never really see anything but the woods and taking trips to the hunting camp. She is
 

Jrgunn5150

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Flat tappet cams are fine as long as you use good oil for break in, adjust the lifters correctly.. However, I was under the impression all 87 up small blocks ARE drilled and tapped for a spider?

As for the intake, they make a TBI Vortec intake, to mount a TBI unit on top of Vortec heads
 

TylerZ281500

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vortec to carb intake is 130 bucks from jegs then you just need an adapter cheaper and more air,

id look into osme gearing or something before doing motor work honestly, unless your bottom end is damn perfect compression and all that

a tune is super beneficial, i usd a tpi pump and a regulator above my gas tank did the tbi mods and so forth, cam i selected a cam and lifter kit from summit, 421/444 lift 112 lsa i believe, easy to tune, if i do it again ill be going 460/488 but that more than both vortecs and tbi heads can handle so springs would be in order.

if your running an automatic then a stall and some upgrades there will help immensely, not saying full rebuild but again if your trans is in tip top shape a vette servo, 4.3 stall and a shift kit would help get some pep in her step. most 87+ blocks are drilled for the spider but not equipped with the stuff usually.

yes with flat tappet you should definitely always run zinc additive, i use bradd penn oil with zinc already added, i wouldnt suggest it unless you get it cheaper than store bought oil like i do. i run flat tappet, my 72 runs an lt4 roller cam, im not opposed to either, if you want roller your cam selections change a little bit.
 
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