Swapping in the 6.5

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97PROSHOZ71

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Alright, finally have an update for this thread! I have the 6.5 torn down and ready to start the rebuild..but the major good thing thats happened is tgat ive found a 91 chevy 2500 light-duty with a 6.2 diesel that i can use for the donor truck for all the parts i need(mechanical injection pumpsome other engine parts,ecm,dash cluster, 14boot sf) quite excited.picking the truck up for $400! And i kbow ive made a few posts about things ive done with no pictures to prove it but thats due to all ky pictures being on my phone and cant figure out how to get them to photobucket and upload them on here! Grr

Sounds good, glad to see an update! As for your photos, if you have a smartphone you can download the free photobucket app and upload the pictures straight to photobucket from your phone. If you have a normal phone, download them on to your computer and upload them to photobcket using the Internet.


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stepside90

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Thats a nice looking truck! Have you done any upgrades to it? So it has the 4L80..interesting.random fact, the donor truck i bought that has the 6.2 in it..its a 700R4! I would have never guessed they used that tranny.was running rpo codes an discovered that. Kept plucking away at tearing parts of it today.injection pump is out now(mechanical, so this will make the swap way easier) and discovered it has a brand new rad! :) ill be pulling more parts this week after work so ill take some pictures.now that thanks to 97proshot i understand how! Thanks dude haha
 

Darkrider

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Thats a nice looking truck! Have you done any upgrades to it? So it has the 4L80..interesting.random fact, the donor truck i bought that has the 6.2 in it..its a 700R4! I would have never guessed they used that tranny.was running rpo codes an discovered that. Kept plucking away at tearing parts of it today.injection pump is out now(mechanical, so this will make the swap way easier) and discovered it has a brand new rad! :) ill be pulling more parts this week after work so ill take some pictures.now that thanks to 97proshot i understand how! Thanks dude haha

I have done a few upgrades and am in the process of finishing the fuel system upgrades, just gathering parts atm.

Upgrades done so far:

Relocated PMD (pump mounted driver, part of the drive by wire system)
Advanced timing on the injector pump (will be doing the same mod with the new pump)
Feed the beast (increased fuel line size from fuel filter to injection pump)

Upgrades to come:
Updated fuel sending unit
Feed the beast Version 2 (new Raptor lift pump and wix filter set up in place of tank sock)
modified stepper motor on injection pump (advances the timing even further at higher RPM)
A Team Turbo
4" exhaust.
 

great white

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Early GMT400's with the 6.X's could come with a 700R4. They weren't all electronic transmissions.

I'm going to be the downer here: swapping a 6.X in is the wrong way to go. Swapping one in is unique, but only because they are not that good of a choice and almost everyone "in the know" would avoid it. Add in the fact that once it's in you have a powerplant option that was available factory and you've just lost anything "Unique" about it. In fact: most who look under your hood will see a 6.X and think less of the vehicle. It's the stigma/bad reputation the engine carries with it and it's a "well earned" reputation.....mostly because GM "screwed the pooch" trying to make what they had work for a demanding market segment. The end result was they stepped on their own di...well, you know.

I would seriously recommend you abandon the 6.X idea and stop dropping good cash on it. I had to learn this the hard/expensive way and would prefer to spare you that experience. Even that 400 bucks you dropped on a whole truck would go a long way to a decent small block build or proper gearing for 37's. The fact that you spent 400 bucks and got a whole 6.X powered truck should also tell you something.....more so if it even runs half decently.

I'm not some random 6.X dissenter either. I've popped both 506 and 599 blocks in just regular use and I am currently running a 6500 Optimizer.

The GM/DD designs are just not good castings, at all. 506 being the worst. But even the "good" 599 right back to the 660 "red blocks" have serious design problems. The main webs crack at the cap bolts and cap registers, the cylinders are known to circumferential crack, the heads crack in the valve lands, starter mounting pads crack off, harmonic dampers that come apart internally, head gaskets give when the boost is dialed up (maybe not the first day, or a month later, but they will go they're just not supported enough), injector pumps are not hardened for ULSD (LSD only) and Gawd help you if you go with an electronic diesel version which exhibit all manner of electrical gremlins. And there's more that I won't even go into.

Causes are everything from high mileage, poor parts, poor initial design and OE manufacturing problems/mistakes.

The only ones acceptable for their use was the original design (red blocks), in their original application (MPG misers) in their original configuration (NA, low stress). In these applications they excelled, getting MPG well above what any of their gasser contemporaries could ever dream of. But even they even had the occasional failure, although much rarer than the later punched out and over stressed 6.5's.

These are all fixable things, but it's going to require lots of $$$$. Block and head problems are virtually eliminated with a new GEP assembly (7,000), injector pumps are available with revised ceramic parts (1200-1500), revised and relocated pump driver module (approx 500), harmonic dampers replaced with fluidampr product (500) and on and on.....

All the rebuilders I know won't even bother cracking open a 6.5 for rebuild, it's toss it out and go new. Often with a "boat" casting. You find about 1 good used block in 10. Heads are just as bad. I've been to scrap yards that won't even sell you a 6.5 as a used replacement, too many come backs. The only thing I've seen rebuilder and resellers consider worth while is a NA 6.2/6.5. They live a low stress enough life to have a chance of not being junk on a pull/rebuild.

I would really suggest staying gas and doing a 383 or 454 over the GM 6.x engines, especially if you're just building a "fun" truck. Even a built 350 with well matching gearing would be a decent choice. A 6.X will suck the fun out of it in pretty short order....

If you want unique and diesel, go 4BT/6BT or any of the HINO or isuzu diesels.

When my last 599 popped, I was stuck in the middle of a long trip with 8000lbs in tow. Circumstances dictated that I replace it. I went with a 6500 optimizer and it cost me damned near 10 grand when it was all said and done (parts plus labor, I had no shop available). Just an FYI; when we cracked open the 599, it was riddled with cracks in all the usually places. It failed because a piston crown cracked, but it was well on it's way to a classical 6.x failure anyways. In all fairness, it did have 300,000 kms on it though....

Given my druthers, I would have had a 6BT swapped in if I had of been another 300 miles in one direction (closer to a shop that specializes in 6BT swaps) and have simply dealt with replacing unit bearings and front end components every few years.

That being said, the Optimizer is holding up well. I've squeezed 271 RWHP out of it on a chassis dyno. But that's just barely getting in to the stock duramax range and it's only been running for 2 years in a predominantly daily driver/low boost application (IE: lightly stressed).

I've since dialed it back down for longevity. Even cracking 200 HP is an accomplishment on a 6.X, they just a re not powerhouses. No, it wasn't easy or cheap. I've since seen the light and have pretty much stopped trying with it. There's an inter-cooler project on the horizon for it and then it's run it until it dies (hopefully after another ten years so i can get some return on what I've spent on it). The truck I keep working on, the engine is now mostly an orphan as far as I'm concerned....

Personally, if I would have had the time, a Duramax would be sitting where the optimizer now resides. There's even a couple swap manuals out there on it. But I was stuck in both location and by time constraints so the only thing that worked was "replace".

The one application I would say a 6.X is good for though is a diesel off road crawler type application. It drops in like a 350 into something like a jeep chassis, has excellent low power delivery characteristics and it a fuel sipper on low speed trails. Off camber fuel delivery is also a bonus as it's unaffected by lean angles like a carburetor would be.

The only other thing I would recommend for someone buying a 6.X is to consider it a driver until it starts causing problems that take more than $500 at a time to fix. At that point, it's time to thank it for the service it's given and send it on it's way down the road. When You start getting into replacing heads, blocks, turbo's, etc, it's just going to be a money pit....

Sorry to be a downer, but thems the facts as I see/experienced them.....

:)
 
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Darkrider

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Early GMT400's with the 6.X's could come with a 700R4. They weren't all electronic transmissions.

I'm going to be the downer here: swapping a 6.X in is the wrong way to go. Swapping one in is unique, but only because they are not that good of a choice and almost everyone "in the know" would avoid it. Add in the fact that once it's in you have a powerplant option that was available factory and you've just lost anything "Unique" about it. In fact: most who look under your hood will see a 6.X and think less of the vehicle. It's the stigma/bad reputation the engine carries with it and it's a "well earned" reputation.....

I would seriously recommend you abandon the 6.X idea and stop dropping good cash on it. I had to learn this the hard/expensive way and would prefer to spare you that experience.

I'm not some random 6.X dissenter either. I've popped both 506 and 599 blocks in just regular use and I am currently running a 6500 Optimizer.

The GM/DD designs are just not good castings, at all. 506 being the worst. The main webs crack at the cap bolts and cap registers, the cylinders are known to circumferential crack, the heads crack in the valve lands, starter mounting pads crack off, harmonic dampers that come apart internally, head gaskets give when the boost is dialed up (maybe not the first day, or a month later, but they will go they're just not supported enough), injector pumps are not hardened for ULSD (LSD only) and Gawd help you if you go with an electronic diesel version which exhibit all manner of electrical gremlins. And there's more that I won't even go into.

Causes are everything from high mileage, poor parts, poor initial design and OE manufacturing problems/mistakes.

These are all fixable things, but it's going to require lots of $$$$. Block and head problems are virtually eliminated with a new GEP assembly (7,000), injector pumps are available with revised ceramic parts (1200-1500), revised and relocated pump driver module (approx 500), harmonic dampers replaced with fluidampr product (500) and on and on.....

All the rebuilders I know won't even bother cracking open a 6.5 for rebuild, it's toss it out and go new. Often with a "boat" casting. You find about 1 good used block in 10. Heads are just as bad. I've been to scrap yards that won't even sell you a 6.5 as a used replacement, too many come backs. The only thing I've seen rebuilder and resellers consider worth while is a NA 6.2/6.5. They live a low stress enough life to have a chance of not being junk on a pull/rebuild.

I would really suggest staying gas and doing a 383 or 454 over the GM 6.x engines, especially if you're just building a "fun" truck. A 6.X will suck the fun out of it in pretty short order....

If you want unique and diesel, go 4BT/6BT or any of the HINO or isuzu diesels.

When my last 599 popped, I was stuck in the middle of a long trip with 8000lbs in tow. Circumstances dictated that I replace it. I went with a 6500 optimizer and it cost me damned near 10 grand when it was all said and done (parts plus labor, I had no shop available). Just an FYI; when we cracked open the 599, it was riddled with cracks in all the usually places. It failed because a piston crown cracked, but it was well on it's way to a classical 6.x failure anyways. In all fairness, it did have 300,000 kms on it though....

Given my druthers, I would have had a 6BT swapped in if I had of been another 300 miles in one direction (closer to a shop that specializes in 6BT swaps) and have simply dealt with replacing unit bearings and front end components every few years.

That being said, the Optimizer is holding up well. I've squeezed 271 RWHP out of it on a chassis dyno. But that's just barely getting in to the stock duramax range.

I've since dialed it back down for longevity. Even cracking 200 HP is an accomplishment on a 6.X, they just a re not powerhouses. No, it wasn't easy or cheap. I've since seen the light and have pretty much stopped trying with it. There's an inter-cooler project on the horizon for it and then it's run it until it dies (hopefully after another ten years so i can get some return on what I've spent on it). The truck I keep working on, the engine is now mostly an orphan as far as I'm concerned....

Personally, if I would have had the time, a Duramax would be sitting where the optimizer now resides. There's even a couple swap manuals out there on it. But I was stuck in both location and by time constraints so the only thing that worked was "replace".

The one application I would say a 6.X is good for though is a diesel off road crawler type application. It drops in like a 350 into something like a jeep chassis, has excellent low power delivery characteristics and it a fuel sipper on low speed trails. Off camber fuel delivery is also a bonus as it's unaffected by lean angles like a carburetor would be.

The only other thing I would recommend for someone buying a 6.X is to consider it a driver until it starts causing problems that take more than $500 at a time to fix. At that point, it's time to thank it for the service it's given and send it on it's way down the road. When You start getting into replacing heads, blocks, turbo's, etc, it's just going to be a money pit....

Sorry to be a downer, but thems the facts as I see/experienced them.....

:)

All great info as always bj, each time you go on to explain things in this manor I start to understand your stance more. So really out of the things I mentioned im my previous post I should take the A Team and 4" exhaust off of the list and focus on beefing up my fuel system to make sure it gets around 11 psi of fuel pressure going to the injector pump and then tune it to get it running as reliably as possible.

Sent from a 6.5 Detroit Diesel powered smartphone
 

great white

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All great info as always bj, each time you go on to explain things in this manor I start to understand your stance more. So really out of the things I mentioned im my previous post I should take the A Team and 4" exhaust off of the list and focus on beefing up my fuel system to make sure it gets around 11 psi of fuel pressure going to the injector pump and then tune it to get it running as reliably as possible.

Sent from a 6.5 Detroit Diesel powered smartphone

Well, there are benefits to both.

Mainly in towing heavy and egt's.

Theres at least one guy i know of in Alberta who has an ATT, hangs out on TTS. Maybe you could take a ride in his truck. The ATT is just a chinese knockoff of a mitsu td-07-22a. Supposedly, theres been some changes made, but it seems like housing sizes it the main one.

I know some guys who are equally happy with Holsets, both 35 and 40.

About all a 6.5 needs to breath well is a 3-3.5 exhaust. I have a 3 downpipe and 4 back, but thats because it was actually cheaper than a 3" system.

Its not like a bigger exhaust can hurt a turbocharged engine, it can only help. Of course, the 3" downpipe (biggest that will fit, even that is tight) is the limiting factor anyways.

My main point is if you want big hp or torque (and dependably) the 6,x isnt rhe beat choice. Pushed hard, they are still fairly lo po and more inreliable the harder you push.

Throw in the fact that used blocks are bad choices from the gwt go and it's just not a good swap choice in a heavy truck...
 
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Darkrider

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Well, there are benefits to both.

Mainly in towing heavy and egt's.

Theres at least one guy i know of in Alberta who has an ATT, hangs out on TTS. Maybe you could take a ride in his truck. The ATT is just a chinese knockoff of a mitsu td-07-22a. Supposedly, theres been some changes made, but it seems like housing sizes it the main one.

I know some guys who are equally happy with Holsets, both 35 and 40.

About all a 6.5 needs to breath well is a 3-3.5 exhaust. I have a 3 downpipe and 4 back, but thats because it was actually cheaper than a 3" system.

Its not like a bigger exhaust can hurt a turbocharged engine, it can only help. Of course, the 3" downpipe (biggest that will fit, even that is tight) is the limiting factor anyways.

My main point is if you want big hp or torque (and dependably) the 6,x isnt rhe beat choice. Pushed hard, they are still fairly lo po and more inreliable the harder you push.

Throw in the fact that used blocks are bad choices from the gwt go and it's just not a good swap choice in a heavy truck...

Since im prob going to lean more towards trail running and towing a bike trailer vs high speed running my goals should be aimed more at making it more efficient and reliable vs big power.

To that end:

Raptor lift pump
Wix filter
A Team or Holset
4" exhaust

And some dyno time to optimize the engines running with the above upgrades.

Sent from a 6.5 Detroit Diesel powered smartphone
 

stepside90

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I 100% agree with ya man.that engine has had ota fair share of problems thru the years.ive read bout them all.i appreciate your breakdown of it and all the headaches.it made me reakize even more that im not building this for a monster engine project.i want it for the ease of swap as everything bolts up where my 350 does for the most part and due to getting a mechanical pump i dont have the headache so much of electronic stuff.the 400 for that parts truck seemed fair as you cant find a 14 bolt 6-lug around here for less then 200 bucks and i also get the big brand new rad and lots of extra parts that made the 400 well worth it,plus all the parts that i dont need that i can turn around and sell and make some money back :)
 
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