Starter replacement for Headers with mini starter

[JONSTE]

So after reading a ton of threads on here I started to think maybe just take the truck to the garage, but what fun is that! I have replaced probably 15-20 starters in my life with never having a problem. figured how could using a mini starter for the first time be any different. the reason I put in a mini starter is to make room for long tube headers going on next week. I ordered the POWERMASTER 9112 mini starter because it could be clocked/timed to my needs, and glad i did because i needed to rotate it two notches to help keep the wires away from the manifold. the size and weight difference was insane, and the new one started right up. I read about 168 vs 153 tooth flywheel, longer and shorter bolts, perfect gear engagement....i just threw it in without any shims, and using the new bolts supplied. I couldn't find any way to get to the gears to check the gear engagement so i figured if it starts, and sounds normal, then im GTG. quick steps:
1. disconnect battery
2. remove positive wire loom holders
3. Remove slave cylinder (2 bolts, easy but dont push the clutch pedal in while its not installed)
4. remove old starter bolts and reconfigure in order to remove wires. Then get rid of the heavy SOB.,
5. drink a beer
6. install new starter and reconnect all wires
7. check that all wires are clear of the exhaust
8. install wire loom holders and reconnect battery
9. drink a beer and start the truck
maybe i got lucky, but 1.5 hours and she started right up. and ill have another beer to that!

 

[JONSTE]

So after reading a ton of threads on here I started to think maybe just take the truck to the garage, but what fun is that! I have replaced probably 15-20 starters in my life with never having a problem. figured how could using a mini starter for the first time be any different. the reason I put in a mini starter is to make room for long tube headers going on next week. I ordered the POWERMASTER 9112 mini starter because it could be clocked/timed to my needs, and glad i did because i needed to rotate it two notches to help keep the wires away from the manifold. the size and weight difference was insane, and the new one started right up. I read about 168 vs 153 tooth flywheel, longer and shorter bolts, perfect gear engagement....i just threw it in without any shims, and using the new bolts supplied. I couldn't find any way to get to the gears to check the gear engagement so i figured if it starts, and sounds normal, then im GTG. quick steps:
1. disconnect battery
2. remove positive wire loom holders
3. Remove slave cylinder (2 bolts, easy but dont push the clutch pedal in while its not installed)
4. remove old starter bolts and reconfigure in order to remove wires. Then get rid of the heavy SOB.,
5. drink a beer
6. install new starter and reconnect all wires
7. check that all wires are clear of the exhaust
8. install wire loom holders and reconnect battery
9. drink a beer and start the truck
maybe i got lucky, but 1.5 hours and she started right up. and ill have another beer to that!

1992 SBC Sport, 5.7L manual trans, 4x4. in case its needed

 

[MrPink]

That is a huge size difference for sure.

 

[454cid]

Oh yeah, when I got the new starter, for my truck, I felt like I was looking at the starter from a little 4cyl import or something. The last starter I had changed was for my Buick, quite awhile ago, and I felt like I was using a 350 Chevy as a starter.

 

[JONSTE]

HEDMAN long tube Headers installed, mini started was an absolute blessing, had to bend the oil dipstick and modify the alternator bracket but otherwise VERY pleased with these headers so far. had a buddy build Stainless exhaust getting rid of the Cat and dual exhaust with Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. and it all started with the starter!

 

[LVJJJ]

been using mini-starters for years, work much better and can handle the heat.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I use the factory GM PMGR Vortec mini starters myself. Even a higher mileage used one cranks over my 11:1 383 and my 8.1 easily. The ones on my Express and Tahoe are both the stock GM ones. They are cheaper than aftermarket ones. In fact the last few I have bought did not even cost me $20 and I got the bolts with them. Find a decent looking one in the treasure yard and it usually works good.

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[Erik the Awful]

It seems like that's the first thing that gets robbed at Pull-A-Part. I need another mini-starter and a couple of the tin shields that come with them. That flimsy tin shield should never be overlooked. It snaps in and out of place fairly easily, doesn't fall off, and makes a significant difference in how much exhaust heat ends up being absorbed by your starter.

 

[454cid]

It seems like that's the first thing that gets robbed at Pull-A-Part. I need another mini-starter and a couple of the tin shields that come with them. That flimsy tin shield should never be overlooked. It snaps in and out of place fairly easily, doesn't fall off, and makes a significant difference in how much exhaust heat ends up being absorbed by your starter.

The shield on mine is held on with screws/bolts. It does not snap on/off. My new AC Delco starter doesn't have the shield on it, because it's different enough, such that the shield interferes with bolting the starter in place.... the shield ends up too far forward.

The shield is still availble from GM, last I knew.