Smitty's 98 2wd RCSB build

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

FordFoxGT

Newbie
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Jacksonville, AR
*** In the build thread section, only the OP can post so I put my build here because I'd like to get people's feedback, opinions and ideas. Sorry if that was wrong. ***

I'm new to the Chevy world so take it easy on me. Lol I'll do my best to search and figure stuff out on my own but sometimes it's nice to have the info spoon fed to me.

I've wanted an OBS Chevy to make a toy out of for a while now. I knew that I wanted a 2wd V8 5 speed RCSB and that I'd prefer it be white and with the newer interior. The wife's cousin happened to have exactly that and was looking to sell it. $1000 later it was mine. It's a rebuilt title and a 305 with 210,000 miles on it but I know who rebuilt it and the damage that "totaled" it. It's a Texas truck and 100% rust free. I didn't care about the 305 because it's gonna have a 383 and a T-56 in the future and eventually a LS1 spec'd LM7 with a T-56. Maybe some forced induction but who knows. Right now though I don't have the space to do anything really major and it's my only transportation here so I can't have it down for long.

This is how she looked about a month ago when I came into my possession.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Since then I've replaced the broken dash with one out of a 96ish truck with no passenger airbag and painted the whole interior black except for the seats and carpet. I'm not sure if I want to risk painting the seat. I also removed and the body molding and the lame "bow tie" pin stripe and threw painted steels on all four corners.

This is how she looks at this moment.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


I'm gonna start with a 2/4 drop and seeing how things go from there. Probably end up with something like a 4/6, but I'm gonna take it slow. I plan on running 17" Soft 8's or D Window with some meat and staying with a 29" tall tire. A cowl hood and a roll pan with a hidden hitch is planned too. Like I said before, this is a toy but I'd like it to stay daily drivable and still be able to use the bed. You know, drive it to the track, throw it around some corners, make some noise, look good in the car show and then pack up the boys, turn the A/C up and drive it home.
 

FordFoxGT

Newbie
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Jacksonville, AR
I'm going to take care of the little things that the truck needs or that I get a hair up my ass to do, as I go. My intention is to build in the "stop, turn, go" method. Oh and I love using off the shelf and pull a part up grades. I'm not made of money and am trying to do this as cheap as possible. As are most of you I assume.

So stopping. These brakes suck pretty bad. I don't know if it's because of the PO's lack of maintenance or if they're just that bad. I've read around here about people upgrading to Hydroboost and 1 ton calipers but have come across little information about what's really involved in the upgrades. As I understand it 3/4 - 1 ton calipers are the same and are a direct bolt on. The confusion here (for me at least) is what pads and rotors I need to run. Do I run the bigger pads and rotors, 1 ton pads and 1/2 ton rotors or 1/2 ton pads and rotors or am I only limited by what my wheel will clear? Anyone with this set up running performance pads and rotors?

Hydroboost - Basically using the P/S pump instead of intake vacuum. Got it. Makes sense. What all is involved? Best I can tell is that I'll need a new M/C, booster and the hoses to the P/S pump. Is it really as simple as tapping a hole and replacing components? What would I find these on? I'm guessing that it's be on 2500's and up.

Thanks,
Smitty
 

sewlow

Bitchin' Stitchin'
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
12,432
Reaction score
5,805
Location
Abbotsford B.C., Canada.
First...Welcome!
About the lowering of your truck. Going from a 2/4 to 4/6 is a major PITA. That spring hanger on the driver's side is not something that I would want to mess with twice. I'd do the 4/6 right off the bat. It's not really 'that' low. There are some forum members driving on 5/8, & even 7/10. Although 7/10 is really low for a DD, & with the conditions of some of the roads around here, would not be what I would call enjoyable. It does look very cool though.
Most guys that I know that have done a 2/4, say that they should have gone to a 4/6, first.
My '98 is a 4/7 drop. It was my DD for over 5 years at 4/6. That's just enough of a drop to look good, and be fun to throw around the twisties, without too many issues with clearances of the suspension components, or the ground.
My '97 is a 2/4 drop. Did that because I use it as my DD and the shop truck. It still gets used as a truck, so I figured that I could use the extra height when carrying a load. But, it's a 1/2 ton RCSB. How much weight can they really carry anyhow?
Should have done the 4/6! And I still might. I just hate doing stuff twice. (or 3, or 4, or 5 times!)
The 2/4 is so subtle, that unless people know GMT400's, it doesnt really stick out in a crowd. The average Joe doesn't see the difference. And with the 20's off my '98 on the '97, the '97 looks kind of 'Donkish'. (Barf!)
The extra lowness of the 4/6 drop makes a big difference in the handling, too. Lower center of gravity and all.
Sway bars will make a huge difference in handling, especially just the addition of a rear one.

The brakes on these trucks are poop! If you're going to the Hydro-boost, you have to change the brake pedal & the shaft that it rides on, from what I understand. I haven't done either of my trucks, yet, so other members with more experience should be able to help with that better than me. When you, or someone else figures out how to do the H/B with a stick shift, post up your findings. I've only seen this done with automatics.
 

FordFoxGT

Newbie
Joined
Apr 6, 2012
Messages
5
Reaction score
2
Location
Jacksonville, AR
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably just go with shackles to level it a bit then save for a 4/6 kit.

About the H/B and manual trans. I'd imagine that it'd be the same as an auto swap. Could probably cut down the auto brake pedal to the size of a manual if you can't find a manual pedal. I actually sat and did some research today and found that I'm going to need the H/B pedal, H/B booster, H/B master cylinder and the hoses. Sounds like doing this and the calipers at the same time would make life easiest. Over all it seems like a couple hour project if everything goes right. I also found these pictures.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach



I went to the pull a part today looking for a GMC grill and an A/C pump. Found neither but left with a non-chrome smooth front bumper and a good spare tire. Both where already off the trucks. Easy pick for me. Lol

I did find these and am going back for them tomorrow after work. The center seat bottom flips up and has storage under it. I didn't know that this was even an option in these trucks. I was just telling a friend the other day who's Tundra does the same thing that I'd like that option.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


I also tried out spray tinting my tail lights tonight and am pretty happy with the out come. I was worried that the lights would be dark but even my cargo light still puts out good light.

Comparison of nothing and about 4 coats and daylight behind the lens.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


With just my lights on.
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Now I need to get rid of the huge heavy ugly ass bumper and rear pipes for a roll pan and side exit exhaust and I'll be happy with the rear view.
 
Top