Skee's 97 K1500 Stepside build thread

[IOWNJUNK]

Does this proceedure for "pressing" them in involve a press?

 

[TylerZ281500]

no, yo unever use a press on anything involving a u joint

 

[IOWNJUNK]

If you say so.

 

[TylerZ281500]

i work with them everyday, you ruin the ears and the joint itself using a press. your supposed to hammer them out as the metal can absorb shock but constant pressure will bend it

 

[IOWNJUNK]

Again, if you say so.

 

[AirmanSkee]

Please argue somewhere else. Either way, the caps are on the u joints, clips are locked in, and shafts are in the axle.

 

[AirmanSkee]

This weekend I have good weather and since the budgets cut our snow removal operations (In Alaska, go figure... Thanks Obama) I do not have to work or have the slight chance of being called in. SO, on that note, progress should be made on the SAS. I have called on the club for help to get it finished, so should have a good group of hands and tools to try to get it done.

I'll keep everyone posted with updates on this thread, and of course, will update the SAS thread with more of the in depth write ups as I go.

Cheers,

Skee


EDIT: ALSO, I do have the drawings made up for all of my SAS brackets, rear shackle flip, and will be making up more diagrams for my steering as well, for those who are interested in making your own. Those will be posted up when finished and edited to clean up.

 

[AirmanSkee]

Welp, got my hands on a fairly new tie rod from a 1990 V2500 Burb (which was normally tie rod up, my knuckles are tie rod down.) But It works for me! Flipped it over and the taper is right. Going to need adjusted for alignment, but suits my needs for now.

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Also, picked up the full steering setup from a HMMWV with brand new joints, so might pull those to use for my custom build tie rod when that comes along.

Started clearancing the calipers for the 15" rims (lines were marked previously. Had to get more discs.) Ended up removing ~1/8" of material from the back side of the caliper, but mainly from the bottom. The top didn't NEED clearanced, but I did it anyways.

If you are doing this, TAKE YOUR TIME. Do NOT overheat the metal, as it will ruin the caliper. Work in small increments and in different spots to keep it cool.

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Wheel fully seated, spinning freely with no clearance issues.

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This is as far as I had to clearance in, from top to bottom of the caliper. Just made a line with the grinder, and slowly made passes back and forth.

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Then I removed the stabilizer, since I won't be us

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Here are the caps for the front. Look great with the black wheels, and also pop open to use the locking hubs. Obviously they will be put in from the backside of the wheel.

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Then got the spring plates drilled for the center pin, and mounted the springs. Took some work but turned out fine. They are just hand tight, will allow for adjustments when under the truck, then be torqued down.

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Also removed both side mounts for the original shocks, and the mount for the stock stabilizer. Just sawzalled as close to the axle as possible and took the grinding disc to clean it up. Hit with a quick spray of the paint to keep it clean. (Sorry no pics of that, phone memory was too full! Will have to clean it up some tonight.)

 

[thz71]

Lookin good man!!

 

[Bearcat91]

Looking good man! Can't wait to see it done!

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