Skee's 97 K1500 Stepside build thread

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AirmanSkee

'MURICA... NUFF SAID
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Just a quick update.

Drag link is too long. Nobody within driving range can tap it left handed. Gotta wait for the new 7/8" left hand thread tap to come in.

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Dropped the rest of the exhaust off.

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Pulled the nasty stock manifolds off.
(well, passenger side is off. Drivers side is putting up a fight.)

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Going to get some more small tools in the morning. And something to get the stripped but off the drivers side manifold/YPipe flange.
 

AirmanSkee

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Changing directions on the tie rod. Got my hands on some HMMWV steering linkage, which just so happen to have the same 3/4ton GM taper, and are also 7/8" 18tpi just like my drag link ends. PERFECT.

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Also, just a little comparison of my drag link ends (heavy duty 3/4 ton GM TREs) and the HMMWV TREs. Can you guess which is which?!

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Should work out pretty good. Figured up to be ~55.5" from center taper to taper for alignment with the wheels straight, and with the link ends in, puts the center of the adjusting threads right around 49" for the length of the DOM I will need. Picking up more DOM and tapping it all tomorrow. Will be updated as that comes along.
 

AirmanSkee

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As of last night this is the progress that was made over the weekend.

While waiting on the drag link to get done, I started on the brakes. The 6" IFS lift I had provided long enough extended brake lines and the banjo bolts were the same. Unfortunately the end of the line was square and the hold for the caliper was round. So I ground off the ridges to fit. DO NOT get into the mating surface, of you WILL have leaking problems.

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**On the old caliper**

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Going to tack weld the old brackets that hold the hard lines there next to the shock hoop on the frame.

With the dog leg of the drag link, it would not allow it to go into a lathe. So even after getting the right LH tap, it didn't work.

So we go some solid stock, cut and sectioned the drag link, and inserted the stock into the drag link. It had to be pressed in, then welded, and then sleeved with the threaded end that was cut. Then all welded together. It will be cleaned up and painted.

It weighs like 12lbs more than it did, but it is not going ANYWHERE. It is solid and built well.

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Then I went to Home Depot and bought some Schedule 80 black iron to make my tie rod out of. It has a wall thickness of right around .25" so would put me where I needed for a DD. I would not wheel it like that. I also picked up a set of 7/8"x18tpi LH and RH weld in bungs locally from a club member. So am going to cut the tubing shorter by 2" and use those.

But after tack welding on the bungs, I had clearance issues with the springs due to the taller HMMWV tie rod ends.

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Luckily I picked up a set of zero rates from a buddy, and gave me the clearance I needed. They are easy to install, but a pain in the fact that I had to drop the whole axle again.

Clamp the spring pack, loosen and remove the stock center pin, and then insert the longer center pin and zero rate and tighten it all back up. Adds and inch, and gives the option to move the axle an inch forward or back to recenter in the wheel well if needed.

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Then I found a stick of leftover 1.5"ODx.25" DOM leftover from the white SAS Burb, and am making the new correct tie rod tonight and getting it all welded up. Should be steerable tonight!
 

AirmanSkee

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Quick update. Monday night we brought the parts over and built the tie rod. Its burned in clean and looks awesome. I will break a knuckle before this goes anywhere.

I used 1.5"ODx.25 wall DOM with a set of weld in bungs. The DOM was cut to 47.5" with an inch on each end for the bungs to equal 49.5" long on the tie rod. The HMMWV tie rod ends put me right at the 55.5" taper to taper measurement, and will let me adjust for alignment.

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Then went to put on the drag link, and turns out my steering arm is tapered for 1 ton GM taper, not 3/4 ton like the rest of my setup. So I snagged the 1 ton drag link end from the white Burb, but had to crank it way down on adjustment to accommodate the longer rod end.

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(Note: This is before any adjustment for steering wheel position and alignment have been made.)
 
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