Sas questions I couldn't find

[thz71]

Do I need to buy shocks for a ford of the year the axle came from or a shock for the 73-87 chevy?

Just order shocks to fit the lift

 

[GMC Burbalade]

Offroad Design kit bolts on, but there's a good amount of cutting and drilling involved and it doesn't incorporate shock mounts. There will likely be some welding required depending on what you do for shock mounts. You'll need to order shocks based on length, not model. Unless you want to spend twice as much and you're buying shocks specifically valved for dual shock applications, you're better off running single shocks.

 

[891Ton]

I used ORU kit and its been great. Yes your gonna need a longer driveshaft if that's more lift than you currently have. Your stock slip yoke only has about 4" of slip. Get and box body Chevy CV shaft out of a junkyard truck and it will bolt right up to your tcase if you have a 4 bolt flange. Then you just need to get a combo joint to fit the axle yoke. You need to do a lot more research bub.

 

[95C1500]

Asking these questions is part of his research

 

[thz71]

I used ORU kit and its been great. Yes your gonna need a longer driveshaft if that's more lift than you currently have. Your stock slip yoke only has about 4" of slip. Get and box body Chevy CV shaft out of a junkyard truck and it will bolt right up to your tcase if you have a 4 bolt flange. Then you just need to get a combo joint to fit the axle yoke. You need to do a lot more research bub.

So do you appearently. Because a longer rear driveshaft is not needed on 6"

 

[891Ton]

That's because your have way more slip in your rear DS yoke. And the rear DS is MUCH longer than the front. So the angle is much less. The short front DS doesn't have that option. So use the CV front DS out of any box body chevy and the 4 bolt flange for your tcase. if its an early 241 you will already have that and it will bolt right up.

 

[peyton4x4]

I've been talking to a guy with the ord kit and he's lifted 15 inches front 12 rear and he's running the stock driveshaft no problem. I'm assuming (open to be told differently lol) I can keep the stock driveshaft. Ord sells shock mounts for my truck. So all I need is brackets, springs, shocks, shock mounts, some form of rear lift, and crossover steering?

 

[891Ton]

I don't want to argue. But anyone running 15 inches of lift on a stock DS doesn't wheel. The bind on those joints would be so horrendous any amount of force put on that thing would snap it like a twig. Im telling you this because I have actually done it, broken about 10 front drive shafts (most in my early years trying to make stock stuff work), and know what they can put up with. The solution I gave you is the best possible option for your truck to work properly. A front CV shaft out of an 80's Chevy will cost you abnout $50 in any junkyard. And it has a CV in it to compensate for the angles AND clear your Tranny crossmember which you will find you cant clear properly with the stock non CV style DS in most of the 400's. Just because someone does it, doesn't mean its the right thing to do. Can it be done? maybe. will it hold up and work that way. Almost definitely no.

don't forget about brake upgrades as well. extended brake lines, and if you use a D60 then a larger master cylinder. 1/2 ton one will work but wont be able to bleed properly because of the larger volume dual piston calipers.

This is the type of abuse my build takes. I know what Im talking about. But to each his own. You can always do the trail and error method.

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[thz71]

That's because your have way more slip in your rear DS yoke. And the rear DS is MUCH longer than the front. So the angle is much less. The short front DS doesn't have that option. So use the CV front DS out of any box body chevy and the 4 bolt flange for your tcase. if its an early 241 you will already have that and it will bolt right up.

I don't want to argue. But anyone running 15 inches of lift on a stock DS doesn't wheel. The bind on those joints would be so horrendous any amount of force put on that thing would snap it like a twig. Im telling you this because I have actually done it, broken about 10 front drive shafts (most in my early years trying to make stock stuff work), and know what they can put up with. The solution I gave you is the best possible option for your truck to work properly. A front CV shaft out of an 80's Chevy will cost you abnout $50 in any junkyard. And it has a CV in it to compensate for the angles AND clear your Tranny crossmember which you will find you cant clear properly with the stock non CV style DS in most of the 400's. Just because someone does it, doesn't mean its the right thing to do. Can it be done? maybe. will it hold up and work that way. Almost definitely no.

don't forget about brake upgrades as well. extended brake lines, and if you use a D60 then a larger master cylinder. 1/2 ton one will work but wont be able to bleed properly because of the larger volume dual piston calipers.

This is the type of abuse my build takes. I know what Im talking about. But to each his own. You can always do the trail and error method.

You must be registered for see images attach

Noone disagrees the front driveshaft needs work. If you read the question it's about the rear driveshaft.

 

[98_k1500]

Airman skee did a pretty nice write up, although his don't have that much lift.