Rough Country 2-3" as junk as everybody says?

[Sno hoe 97]

I got a 97 Tahoe off my dad for $500. So I can't really see putting $1k in a lift on it. I don't want to just crank my keys and ruin my ride quality since this will be my new DD while my duramax is getting redone. So can anybody who has actual experience about this kit tell me about it? All the other threads I've seen on here have been guys saying it's junk but I haven't seen anything from anybody who has actually run it.

Thanks

 

[TylerZ281500]

the kit is overranking your keys your ride quality will be worse. its a junk waste of money, crank stock keys or body lift or dont lift it.

 

[95C1500]

Yes. It is. Listen to Tyler ^

 

[cmcolfax]

Z28... Is quick to type, bash, and not give any real info.

Is the RC kit a $1000 lift like you said?
Not even close.
Is it more than functional?
Absolutely.

Using the re-indexed torsion bar keys , IMHO , is better than just cranking the hell out of the stock ones.
They are easy enough to swap in, and you retain adjustability.

Yes, it does mess with your CV and BJ angles.
Yes, it may cause them to wear more rapidly (or reveal that they were bad to begin with).
Yes, it makes the front end bang around a little more.

Guess what? So does cranking the stock ones.

What is your plan for the rear?
Whether you use the RC kit or not?

My advice (opinion) is use the fill length Add A Leaf.
Not a 2" block.
Want to talk about undue stress and unnatural loads and angles on 20-year old springs?

The RC kit also comes with new UCA's with new Moog BJ's and a front differential drop.
All of which will help those front end wear issues.

Plus longer travel shocks instead of just relocation brackets (your shocks prolly need to be replaced anyway as well).

No, I don't work for RC or anyone that sells them.
I just did months of research band cost/benefit analysis when buying the parts for my 96 Burb.

You are looking at $500-600 delivered.

Depending on how the 'Hoe was maintained and how long you plan on it being your DD you could plan on wheel bearings, CV shafts and prolly TRE's in a year or so.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[dave_erald]

Body lifts are typically crappy looking, and torsion bar cranks usually ride worse. This hurts me to say it, but crank it level(which is fine) and then body lift it. Clear a 33 easy enough and you wont have to spend a ton of money

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Body lifts are typically crappy looking, and torsion bar cranks usually ride worse. This hurts me to say it, but crank it level(which is fine) and then body lift it. Clear a 33 easy enough and you wont have to spend a ton of money

This, these trucks show a ton of frame as is.

Cranking will pre-load the bar's and make it ride worse. Torsion keys will pre-load the bars and make it ride worse. Six one way, a half dozen the other. Except cranking is free.

What are your trying to accomplish with a small lift?

 

[TylerZ281500]

so by moving the control arms doward and increasing the torsoinal tension has no impact on ride quality? how? how is a reindexed key "better" because the bar is twisted the same amount.

wheres the LCAS? low ball joint angle isnt affected? longer shocks for what? you have just limited the amount of up travel you have by the increased torsoinal tension and decreased the amount of down travel. you bought longer shocks because you overextended the appropriate reach of the stock suspension.

your stock geometry is also moving in a circular motion therefore but making the control arms down you have brought the wheels closer which despite said drop bracket and upper control arms has no both affected suspension cycling and your steering immensely?

im too quick to type? or i know how IFS works, its very simple spring rate and geometry. compared to 4 link systems and long travel that wont bind this is a cakewalk that most including you (cough cmcolfax cough) fail to fully understand. why is a body lift a better choice? all geometry is in the same place.

and i know someone will argue well my ride quality was still good? define good? stiff isnt good, theres also 5 or so torsion rates to take into account, what one a certain truck has has alot to play in how it rides.

bottom line, if you line feeling like your riding on a cylinder block and enjoy replacing front end parts crank stock, buy a body lift or leave it stock if you want 3". or be a big boy and step up to an actual lift that doesnt throw your angles and geometry out the window.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I've been in a ton of GMT400's in my life, I was 7 when they were brand new. The only one that really rode "nice" was my Grandma's Yukon.

 

[Sno hoe 97]

the kit is overranking your keys your ride quality will be worse. its a junk waste of money, crank stock keys or body lift or dont lift it.

have you had this kit on any of your trucks?

 

[Sno hoe 97]

Z28... Is quick to type, bash, and not give any real info.

Is the RC kit a $1000 lift like you said?
Not even close.
Is it more than functional?
Absolutely.

Using the re-indexed torsion bar keys , IMHO , is better than just cranking the hell out of the stock ones.
They are easy enough to swap in, and you retain adjustability.

Yes, it does mess with your CV and BJ angles.
Yes, it may cause them to wear more rapidly (or reveal that they were bad to begin with).
Yes, it makes the front end bang around a little more.

Guess what? So does cranking the stock ones.

What is your plan for the rear?
Whether you use the RC kit or not?

My advice (opinion) is use the fill length Add A Leaf.
Not a 2" block.
Want to talk about undue stress and unnatural loads and angles on 20-year old springs?

The RC kit also comes with new UCA's with new Moog BJ's and a front differential drop.
All of which will help those front end wear issues.

Plus longer travel shocks instead of just relocation brackets (your shocks prolly need to be replaced anyway as well).

No, I don't work for RC or anyone that sells them.
I just did months of research band cost/benefit analysis when buying the parts for my 96 Burb.

You are looking at $500-600 delivered.

Depending on how the 'Hoe was maintained and how long you plan on it being your DD you could plan on wheel bearings, CV shafts and prolly TRE's in a year or so.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I was talking about a 4" or 6" lift cost $1k. I would be using add a leafs for the rear since I would probaly be towing a bit and like you don't like blocks. But thanks for your input.