Replacing the upper A arms.

[Schurkey]

As an alternative to renting the tool, HF sells an $80 press kit. I have used it a few times and it seems to be holding up. I haven't uses it on my ball joints yet but that's the plan.

If the new ball joints bolt-in, there's no press needed.

I guess the forged lower arms have press-fit joints. My '88 has bolt-ins top and bottom. Knocking the rivets out is the worst part of the job; if the rivets are already gone (joints replaced before) the job is E-A-S-Y.

 

[97C1500TJ]

You’re already in there. May as well so you don’t have to go back in there later.

 

[Wilecoyote]

Lowers are not that big of a deal if you use some common sense and take your time. I have done lowers with out removing the T bars and installed new poly bushings in an afternoon.

So you just unload the T bars to replace the lower bushings?

 

[evilunclegrimace]

So you just unload the T bars to replace the lower bushings?

Yes.

 

[Supercharged111]

If the new ball joints bolt-in, there's no press needed.

I guess the forged lower arms have press-fit joints. My '88 has bolt-ins top and bottom. Knocking the rivets out is the worst part of the job; if the rivets are already gone (joints replaced before) the job is E-A-S-Y.

There's stamped arms with forged bits that hold the lower ball joints and fully forged lower control arms in some of the later trucks.

 

[Schurkey]

So you just unload the T bars to replace the lower bushings?

Yes.

Not me. I'm too lazy.

Put jack-stands under the frame, disconnect sway bar if the truck has one. Disconnect shock absorber. Disconnect ball joint stud from steering knuckle. (getting the ball joint stud unhooked from the knuckle is a fair amount of work--gotta pull the brake caliper to disconnect the CV shaft.) Zip out two bolts from control arm at the bushings. Control arm can be pried far enough out from the chassis to melt out the rubber bushings, and install Polyurethane inserts.

Cram the control arms back into the frame brackets, torque bolts, connect knuckle, shock, sway bar, have a beer.

I never touch the torsion bar adjustment.

 

[Wilecoyote]

Min

Not me. I'm too lazy.

Put jack-stands under the frame, disconnect sway bar if the truck has one. Disconnect shock absorber. Disconnect ball joint stud from steering knuckle. (getting the ball joint stud unhooked from the knuckle is a fair amount of work--gotta pull the brake caliper to disconnect the CV shaft.) Zip out two bolts from control arm at the bushings. Control arm can be pried far enough out from the chassis to melt out the rubber bushings, and install Polyurethane inserts.

Cram the control arms back into the frame brackets, torque bolts, connect knuckle, shock, sway bar, have a beer.

I never touch the torsion bar adjustment.

I already have the moog,loaded upper arms and new cam bolt sets.Probally just replace the lower ball joints along w the tie rods. I assume the lower ball joints could be unbolted to replace the lower arm bushings afterward if I need too?

 

[tinfoil_hat]

What is involved in disconnecting the torsion bars?

 

[Schurkey]

What is involved in disconnecting the torsion bars?

MINE were seized (rusted) into the lower arms...so I have no idea. That's why I didn't dick with mine. I put bushing inserts in, with the arms hanging from the torsion bars.

 

[industrialfish]

What is involved in disconnecting the torsion bars?

Jack up the truck, remove tire. Use the special tool to unload the torsion key, remove the key, beat the bar out.