Replacing the upper A arms.

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Wilecoyote

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I'm going put some Moog A arms w ball joints and new cam bolts on my 98 4wd. I can borrow the tool to punch the knock outs. The camber can't be adjusted/aligned right because the original bushings are about shot. I'll also be replacing the tie rods and the pitman, already did the idler. My question is should I R&R the lower A arms. bushings/ball joints while I'm doing the job or wait and see?
 

JWOK

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Did you check the lower ball joints and bushings already? You should be able to tell whether there is any play in the ball joint or if the bushings look like they are beginning to deteriorate. I am the type that replaces all the likely culprets as a matter of preventive maintenance like mtl111 says, but lower control arm bushing and ball joint replacement is a pain in the rear if you don’t have the tools (they can usually be rented though). Long way of saying check the lowers first and let that guide your decision. You will likely have issues with the lower bushings if the uppers are so bad you can’t align it which will make your decision for you.
 

Wilecoyote

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Did you check the lower ball joints and bushings already? You should be able to tell whether there is any play in the ball joint or if the bushings look like they are beginning to deteriorate. I am the type that replaces all the likely culprets as a matter of preventive maintenance like mtl111 says, but lower control arm bushing and ball joint replacement is a pain in the rear if you don’t have the tools (they can usually be rented though). Long way of saying check the lowers first and let that guide your decision. You will likely have issues with the lower bushings if the uppers are so bad you can’t align it which will make your decision for you.

It's my DD and I'm sure it's gonna be a ***** to do the lower bushings/ball joint myself in my gravel driveway.I'll probably have a shop do the lowers.I guess I'm asking what would be the best/easier way to it all, if their is one .Lowers first or uppers? and then replace the tie rods and pitman etc.
 

JWOK

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Uppers are fairly easy compared to the lowers. If you plan on having the lowers done by a shop, finish all your work first then have the shop replace the lowers immediately followed by an alignment. If you split things up in phases you will be paying for more than one alignment which would add up quick. The only part here that wouldn’t necessarily require an immediate alignment is the pitman.
 
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You don't even need the tool for the knockouts, I did mine today with a 3/8-16 bolt, nut, and socket.

Bent them out just far enough to grab with pliers.
 

evilunclegrimace

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Lowers are not that big of a deal if you use some common sense and take your time. I have done lowers with out removing the T bars and installed new poly bushings in an afternoon.
 

Schurkey

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Lowers are not that big of a deal if you use some common sense and take your time. I have done lowers with out removing the T bars and installed new poly bushings in an afternoon.
Ditto. I did that on my '88 K1500; although I did one side at a time, and several months apart. The bolt-in ball joints are a piece of cake when you replace them the second time--since the rivets are already gone.

Still need to do it on the '97 K2500. Replaced the upper arms with Moog assemblies last fall. They're easy.
 

tinfoil_hat

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As an alternative to renting the tool, HF sells an $80 press kit. I have used it a few times and it seems to be holding up. I haven't used it on my ball joints yet but that's the plan.
 
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