remove door hinges

[gil33]

Hi guys
I appeal to you because I have to change my door hinges, they are welded (so original). I seek tips, tricks or tuturials to be able to remove them without damaging the amount of the cabin and the door.
I am using google translation so apologize for the language errors.
Thank you for your answers

 

[7thdarkangel]

The hinges will need to be drilled at the spot weld and chiseled or air hammered off. Most of the factory hinges have a little center drill mark where they need to be drilled. Expect this to take you a few hours to complete. It is not fun. The new hinges bolt on where you drill the spot welds out, so me mindful not to drill the holes too big or the knurled section of the bolt will not grab the hole and you will have a hard time getting them tight. Also, i had the fenders off for this.

 

[gil33]

ok, I'm going to be patient
thank you
Friendship of France

 

[upper_tanker]

The hinges will need to be drilled at the spot weld and chiseled or air hammered off. Most of the factory hinges have a little center drill mark where they need to be drilled. Expect this to take you a few hours to complete. It is not fun. The new hinges bolt on where you drill the spot welds out, so me mindful not to drill the holes too big or the knurled section of the bolt will not grab the hole and you will have a hard time getting them tight. Also, i had the fenders off for this.

Just because I'm curious, the new bolts just thread into the "A pillar?" or are there nuts that you put behind the A pillar to tighten down the bolts?

My dad owns a handful of 400s, and I own a one. He has one truck that's hinges have oblong holes due to one of the P.O.s not keeping up on the hinge pins/bushings. He's had the new hinges for a while, but we didn't want to start this project and end up messing it up. I've always wanted to ask somebody who's done this before how the project was.

I have an uncle with a 92 extended cab that said he just took his to a body shop by him and they charged him $400 per door to change the hinges. That seemed quite a bit expensive to me, but then again, I didn't know what all it entails.

 

[gil33]

hi
for my part I have never done this job it will be a first, in France also it is expensive at a coachbuilder.

 

[7thdarkangel]

Just because I'm curious, the new bolts just thread into the "A pillar?" or are there nuts that you put behind the A pillar to tighten down the bolts?

My dad owns a handful of 400s, and I own a one. He has one truck that's hinges have oblong holes due to one of the P.O.s not keeping up on the hinge pins/bushings. He's had the new hinges for a while, but we didn't want to start this project and end up messing it up. I've always wanted to ask somebody who's done this before how the project was.

I have an uncle with a 92 extended cab that said he just took his to a body shop by him and they charged him $400 per door to change the hinges. That seemed quite a bit expensive to me, but then again, I didn't know what all it entails.

Here is a set that shows a good picture of the hardware.

https://www.1aauto.com/door-hinge-p...MIlv7b0MSJ4gIVF7bICh0QWwh_EAkYAyABEgIAl_D_BwE

Once the holes are drilled out, you thread the wire through the pillar and attach the bolt to it. Pull the bolt up through the pillar and hinge and put a nut on it. repeat until all four are on. Then you crank the nuts,this will pull the bolts into the pillar creating a pressed in stud(hope that makes sense). This gets done on both the pillar and the door. The removal of the old hinges is the biggest pain in the a**. Putting the new hinges on is pretty straight forward. Realigning the door and fender requires a good amount of patients.

 

[gil33]

thank you for the links and thank you for your advice.

 

[upper_tanker]

Here is a set that shows a good picture of the hardware.

https://www.1aauto.com/door-hinge-p...MIlv7b0MSJ4gIVF7bICh0QWwh_EAkYAyABEgIAl_D_BwE

Once the holes are drilled out, you thread the wire through the pillar and attach the bolt to it. Pull the bolt up through the pillar and hinge and put a nut on it. repeat until all four are on. Then you crank the nuts,this will pull the bolts into the pillar creating a pressed in stud(hope that makes sense). This gets done on both the pillar and the door. The removal of the old hinges is the biggest pain in the a**. Putting the new hinges on is pretty straight forward. Realigning the door and fender requires a good amount of patients.

Thanks for your response, again. This makes complete sense.... I've put a few hitches on that require you to thread the bolt in the spring/wire, and feed it through the frame of the hitch and pull it out of the hole. It's really a great idea and whoever came up with it is hopefully rich by now.

I will have to talk to my dad about doing this sometime soon. however, I'm still trying to figure out why you NEED to take the fender off. I haven't looked too close in a while, but do you not have full access to the entire hinge on the pillar while the door is off? Just wondering, I could definitely be wrong.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Thanks for your response, again. This makes complete sense.... I've put a few hitches on that require you to thread the bolt in the spring/wire, and feed it through the frame of the hitch and pull it out of the hole. It's really a great idea and whoever came up with it is hopefully rich by now.

I will have to talk to my dad about doing this sometime soon. however, I'm still trying to figure out why you NEED to take the fender off. I haven't looked too close in a while, but do you not have full access to the entire hinge on the pillar while the door is off? Just wondering, I could definitely be wrong.

You do not have to remove the fender. GM had a service bulletin about changing the hinges back in the late 80's- early 90's. They even listed a roto broach type drilling tool to make the job easier. I still have the tool but misplaced the bulletin. Maybe someone here can post the bulletin.

 

[upper_tanker]

You do not have to remove the fender. GM had a service bulletin about changing the hinges back in the late 80's- early 90's. They even listed a roto broach type drilling tool to make the job easier. I still have the tool but misplaced the bulletin. Maybe someone here can post the bulletin.

That would be awesome!