Putting 96 L31/4L60E/PCM into old Chevy Truck questions

[johnnyp]

Picked up a few 47-54 Chevy AD(Advance-Design) trucks a while back and am doing the common S10 frame swap to get modern suspension/brakes, power steering etc. The S10 I bought to do the first one is a 92 with 4.3 TBI/700R4 which ran and drove good so I'm 95% sure that will go into the first AD.

I also have a 96 Silverado L31/4l60E 2wd that has been our daily driver for a couple of years. It's rusty, got some small dents and scratches suspension and steering getting sloppy, interior not great, 3 of 4 speakers blown etc,(kid owned it) so I'm thinking about pulling the engine/tranny/wiring/pcm out of it for the next old AD truck. This 96 is an old man's truck, light duty brakes/suspension, electric everything, rides like a big car. I do like this gen of Chevy truck but what I want is 3/4 ton 4x4 or more so, 1 ton single wheel 4x4.

Would be completely stock, though I might freshen it up with rings and bearings. Runs fine and shifts good as is. Will have to see what a comp test says. First couple of projects need to be low budget so I can buy some fancy stuff like a concrete floor to work on.

My question is, do I have to worry about not using the following systems?

anti/lock brakes
anti-theft
airbags/srs
stock gauges

Looking at the service manual and having at least some knowledge tells me anti-theft consists of keyless/remote entry tied in with power door locks. Anti-lock brakes are self contained and shouldn’t affect running/driveability. Same with airbags/srs. I read somewhere recently that not having the factory gauges plugged in would keep it from running but looking at service info, I don't see how.

I think all that's going to happen is ABS and air bag warning lights will come on with the modules and components not being in place but if there's no cluster, there will be no lights to come on.

I'll be using aftermarket electronic gauges. I went with Classic Instruments on the first one and if they work out, will continue to use them.

I read a couple of threads here and elsewhere on L31 swaps into OSBs and didn't see anything about the above systems. Also did a search for "swap" and read everything that pertained. Pretty sure it won't be a problem but wanted to check. Only other thing I can think of is that I need to make sure whatever rear tires I put on are about the same outer diameter as a P235/75R15 so that the tranny shifts out ok.



Thanks,

John

 

[upper_tanker]

This probably isn't very helpful, if you're going to use the black box (computer) out of the vortec, I'd shoot an email to a tuner capable of tuning them.... Justin from Blackbear maybe. Tell him what your plan is, and see if he can turn all of those off or disable them with the tuning software. I have no clue if this can be done or not, but it's worth a shot.

Are you planning on using the stock L31 fuel injection or going carb? I guess it doesn't matter, since you'll still need the computer (or an aftermarket standalone) to run the 60E.

 

[johnnyp]

I'm thinking it won't be necessary but have thought about that and have seen blackbear recommended here. Hate to spend a few hundred if I don't need to. Keeping the spider injection.

If things went that way of having to get something programmed, I'd probably just not bother with it and find something else as a donor. Do another with the 4.3 probably. In the future, I'll be going the LS route and getting hptuner's vcm suite.

 

[letitsnow]

If spending a few hundred to have the computer programmed to work with your set up is a deal breaker, I suspect that you are in for a big shock on what the other stuff (for the swap) will end up costing you.

 

[johnnyp]

If spending a few hundred to have the computer programmed to work with your set up is a deal breaker, I suspect that you are in for a big shock on what the other stuff (for the swap) will end up costing you.

I'll be alright. Been self employed most of my life and I'm not young. I know how to estimate jobs.