dcp1992
Instagram - @dcp1992
Next I reinstalled the headlights now with the added halos.
I also forgot to show it but I had to clearance the radiator support for the projector side of the headlight. (Didn't have to do it that much but I just wanted to make sure I had plenty of room.)
I also cut out one catalytic converter and gutted the other one and of course I got a check engine light. So I did the spark plug foul spacer trick. It's been working for 11 months with no problem.
On to cab light install. (clearance lights) (And this is now back to after the lift.)
First off, I don't care what anyone says... The rubber well nuts that everyone says to use to install cab lights in the cab light thread don't work that well. When I installed cab lights on my Jeep years ago I used the rubber well nuts mentioned from this forum. At first they did okay, didn't have any problems... But when we had all that freezing weather back last year the ice/snow started to pull the lights off the roof and you could also the how much the rubber well nuts had deteriorated... So I knew then when I put the lights on this truck I was going to do it right the first time and use some zinc coated steel nutserts and have been very happy with them. I was also able to use them in my Jeep even with the holes drilled out more for the rubber well nuts.
So, I went up to one of my local Fastenal and picked up a bag of 25 that were 10-24 thread. (lucky for me, since they are usually a non stock item, someone ordered 5 or so bags and never picked them up... in fact I just checked and they still have them so I might pick up the other bags just to have... They are only $12.33 a bag)
This is the tool I picked up at Northern Tools for roughly $22, the Surebonder 8510, it worked great for just doing my Jeep and Yukon. Yes, it's not really designed to do them this big in steel but it held up okay, just a little bit of deformation. Don't know how many more it could do, but I think I can actually weld the part that's separating and keep using it.
This is the deformation. The barrel is being pushed back. But like I said, I could probably weld the front of the barrel so at least it won't push all the way through. The metal will stay bent but it won't actually some appart.
Clean the roof off.
Taped out and used the cab light install thread to get the measurements to where I needed to drill.
Mockup of the lights.
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I also forgot to show it but I had to clearance the radiator support for the projector side of the headlight. (Didn't have to do it that much but I just wanted to make sure I had plenty of room.)
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
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I also cut out one catalytic converter and gutted the other one and of course I got a check engine light. So I did the spark plug foul spacer trick. It's been working for 11 months with no problem.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
On to cab light install. (clearance lights) (And this is now back to after the lift.)
First off, I don't care what anyone says... The rubber well nuts that everyone says to use to install cab lights in the cab light thread don't work that well. When I installed cab lights on my Jeep years ago I used the rubber well nuts mentioned from this forum. At first they did okay, didn't have any problems... But when we had all that freezing weather back last year the ice/snow started to pull the lights off the roof and you could also the how much the rubber well nuts had deteriorated... So I knew then when I put the lights on this truck I was going to do it right the first time and use some zinc coated steel nutserts and have been very happy with them. I was also able to use them in my Jeep even with the holes drilled out more for the rubber well nuts.
So, I went up to one of my local Fastenal and picked up a bag of 25 that were 10-24 thread. (lucky for me, since they are usually a non stock item, someone ordered 5 or so bags and never picked them up... in fact I just checked and they still have them so I might pick up the other bags just to have... They are only $12.33 a bag)
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
This is the tool I picked up at Northern Tools for roughly $22, the Surebonder 8510, it worked great for just doing my Jeep and Yukon. Yes, it's not really designed to do them this big in steel but it held up okay, just a little bit of deformation. Don't know how many more it could do, but I think I can actually weld the part that's separating and keep using it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
This is the deformation. The barrel is being pushed back. But like I said, I could probably weld the front of the barrel so at least it won't push all the way through. The metal will stay bent but it won't actually some appart.
You must be registered for see images attach
Clean the roof off.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Taped out and used the cab light install thread to get the measurements to where I needed to drill.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Mockup of the lights.
You must be registered for see images attach