Outer pinion bearing.

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gilly327

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When putting a rear differential back together is it bad to wallow out the outer bearing on the new bearing like you would the old one when fitting for pinion depth. My issue is I prefer everything and was happy with my markings. When putting it together for good I am using a crush sleeve eliminator. I couldn’t find the specs so on a you tube video they went to 250 ftlb. When that was so tight nothing moved. Found in the comments of another video they did 140-150. Still too tight. Even 125 like another brand instruction was too tight. (I’m using a Yukon). I replaced the inner pinion bearing thinking I ruined it by over righting. First try with the new bearing it would spin but preload was too tight. Removed some shims and not it’s back to too tight. Even with the spacer removed it’s still too tight at 125lbft. I tried with the old piñon. And bearing and it’s the same so my issue is either the outer bearing or yoke. I want to use the new outer bearing to see if that solves my issue but if not I don’t wanna have to get another one so if I can open up the middle So it easily slides on and off like the old bearing so I can reuse it.
 

packer0440

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Not well-versed in this area but I would not advise doing so. Without a press fit, the pinion could spin inside the bearing and ruin both in short order.
 

stutaeng

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What axle is this for?

The crush sleeve eliminator should come with a yoke nut torque specification. I'm surprised it didn't come with instructions!?

I'm assuming you are talking about the crush sleeve eliminator shims? The pinion gear shim against the case are not supposed to used to adjust pinion preload, rather to set the pinion gear in the right location relative to the ring gear gear.

...I didn't understand your first question...
 

Erik the Awful

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I haven't had one of these differentials apart yet, but I'd suspect that something is installed wrong or there's a part problem. I would not modify the bearing.
 

JWOK

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It sounds like the issue you are running into is not having the correct shims with the crush sleeve eliminator. You have to set the pinion depth with shims under the bearing closest to the gear and check the pattern without the crush sleeve or eliminator in place. When satisfied with the pattern, you install the sleeve or eliminator before the small bearing and yoke which is what keeps the proper preload on the bearings. The eliminator will have to be shimmed between the bearings until the proper preload is reached. If you have too much preload, add shims between bearings. Playing with the nut torque will not take care of the problem. Also, the bearing closest to the yoke is typically not too difficult to remove and does not need to be made oversize. The yoke should not affect the preload.
 

gilly327

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Ok, I got what you were asking... that's definitely a no-no. Only acceptable to do on the old bearings as set-up bearings.

Take it to a shop and ask if they can press them for you.
It sounds like the issue you are running into is not having the correct shims with the crush sleeve eliminator. You have to set the pinion depth with shims under the bearing closest to the gear and check the pattern without the crush sleeve or eliminator in place. When satisfied with the pattern, you install the sleeve or eliminator before the small bearing and yoke which is what keeps the proper preload on the bearings. The eliminator will have to be shimmed between the bearings until the proper preload is reached. If you have too much preload, add shims between bearings. Playing with the nut torque will not take care of the problem. Also, the bearing closest to the yoke is typically not too difficult to remove and does not need to be made oversize. The yoke should not affect the preload.
I already went through all the initial set up with pinion depth,back lash and was satisfied with my markings. My issue is whether it has all the shims with the eliminator or none it’s too much preload. I’ll have to give it another go
 

stutaeng

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Ok, gotcha. Agree with @JWOK ...

You haven't answered the question about the manufacturer of the crush sleeve eliminator or if you actually did find the correct torque specs for the nut...

If you are, in fact, torquing to spec, have all of the supplied shims in place and preload is still too high, then I would advice to contact the manufacturer of the eliminator.

They either gave the wrong shims ( or not enough shims?) or something else is off.

Good luck.
 
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