AvgJoe
Newbie
Let me start at the beginning. The rear brake line popped on my way home from work one day from age and I managed to limp her home. The line was popped along the frame rail behind the fuel tank. It was pretty rusty. That was a relatively easy repair. I was trying to bleed the brakes and realized there was no fluid coming from the rear bleeders. I figured it was the ABS dump valve holding back. Wanting to do away with the ABS anyway, I made up some new lines and tried again. Still no fluid. Then I found my proportional valve had done its job in a sense and diverted all the fluid to the front wheels during the loss of pressure. However it had seized in that position. That’s when I found out it is an obsolete part now. I started doing some research on the GMT800 MC upgrade. I bought that MC but had to use a proportional valve from an older 3rd gen truck with disc/drum. Here is the predicament I’m in: The brake pedal is firmer but the truck doesn’t want to stop. None of the wheels will lock up. They act as if they are glazed but even if they are, I should be able to get one them to lock. Neither front nor rear will lock. And yes, the rear brakes are adjusted. I can’t see all four corners glazing at the same time. I haven’t pulled the calipers off yet and won’t have the time to do so until after the holiday. Both the pads and shoes have about 80% of their life left. I have another question about that NBS master cylinder. Which port is for the rear brakes? I have it hooked up now as the OBS style would have been but is that right? Or could that be my problem? I’ve been at this for a while so any help would be appreciated.