Looking for some audio help

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

GMCTRUCKS

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 24, 2010
Messages
1,697
Reaction score
505
Location
H-town
My truck was custumized by Trailmaster well for to many years..........I didn't want to remove my stock radio because of my nice wood work that surround the stock EQ but I finally did I tell you it was the best thing I did I love the way my Alpine sounds now. Before I had the stock radio with a powered sub it did help out but nothing like my set up now.
 

glendayle

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
224
Reaction score
17
Location
SLC, UT
My truck was custumized by Trailmaster well for to many years..........I didn't want to remove my stock radio because of my nice wood work that surround the stock EQ but I finally did I tell you it was the best thing I did I love the way my Alpine sounds now. Before I had the stock radio with a powered sub it did help out but nothing like my set up now.

I'm sure an aftermarket deck helps. It's not my DD though, so I'm not willing to put much into it. If it were my DD I'd care more.
 

T DOG

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 7, 2011
Messages
420
Reaction score
4
Unless of course they have detailed how to with real pictures on how to take apart the trim. I bet money they don't though.

This is exactly what the master sheets are. Detailed instructions with pictures on how to install your speakers and deck. Your right, Crutchfield isn't always the cheapest you just have to wait for stuff to go on sale.
 

glendayle

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
224
Reaction score
17
Location
SLC, UT
I've basically got the interior apart, but I'm having an issue with the seatbelts. I can't get them to extend out. They are locked.
 

rdlyn13000

I'm Awesome
Joined
Feb 16, 2012
Messages
157
Reaction score
0
Location
Minnesota
You should take some pics along the way! I'd like to see how you go about everything from the pillars to the sub/amp
 

glendayle

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
224
Reaction score
17
Location
SLC, UT
Alright ladies. Here is some information. I'll do a better writeup later, but this should be pretty helpful. Now that I've got it all apart, I can see what order would have been better than the way I went. I'm not going to focus at all on the front part because I think you all should basically know that the A-pillers just pull out and of course the sill plates come out once you remove the associated screws.

1st things 1st. I would remove the rear seat. I couldn't figure out how this thing comes apart, but when I finally got it, it's easy peasy. There is a plastic cover on each side that sort of covers up the square axle piece. On the passenger side there are two plugs to pull out and the plastic cover pops right off. On the drivers side there is only one plug. Be gentle so you don't break them. Then there is a bolt/nut(15mm both) that you undo on both sides. I did this with the seat folded back. After that, I rotated the seat into the flat position with the seat back folded down and just lifted it out of place.

Here is the passenger side cover( removed obviously)
You must be registered for see images attach


square axle thingy. I just placed the bolt back in the hole so I don't lose it.
You must be registered for see images attach


2nd I would remove the center cross piece. This one is pretty easy. Work from one side to the other prying gently on the bottom. I used a trim tool to help me get behind the edge. You'll be able to feel where the clips are holding it in place. Pop all of the clips accross the bottem, and then you slide the piece vertically to release the top of that trim piece. I think there are 4 clips across the bottom/middle, and 3 across the top lip. I'll have to verify this later. This picture shows the back side of the top and bottom pieces.
You must be registered for see images attach


Next I removed the top center piece, but after getting this all apart, it may have been better to remove this after the pillars. Hopefully I can determine which way would have been better when i put it back together. This is the piece that I had the most trouble with. You can see from the picture above that I broke all 3 of the center mounting clip locations. There are 3 in the center and 5 against the rear window. Some trucks will have screws along the window instead of clips. The other hard part was that there is an interlocking tab that ties into the pillars that creates some headache. I did put a small crack in the corner near the passenger side. I think all of the pieces with issues will be able to be mended with a plastic welder and I think I'll be able to make it so you cannot even tell. More to come on that later.


I would do the passenger side rear piller next. You need to use a t-50 bit to remove the lower seat belt bolt. I would also pull the seatbelt all the way out and tie a loose knot in it so it's in fully extended position. Just do it and you will possibly save yourself headache down the road of dealing with a retracted and locked seatbelt like me. Now using a tool, you can work the edge of trim along the door opening and pop out the clips. There are only two, but the trim holds tightly to the edge.
You must be registered for see images attach


Now to the drivers side. Remove the ashtray and lower cubby compartment. These both just pull out and should be easy to figure out. There are 2 screws below the ashtray that are vertical. There are 3 screws that go horizantally into the sheetmetal. Remove all of these. Also remove the upper seatbelt connection for the drivers seatbelt. Also t-50. Just unclip the cover, undo the bolt, and then let it lay to the floor. At this point you can use your tool to take the trim peices out. I did the upper 1st, but I think it may be easier/better to do the lower piece 1st in retrospect, Here are a couple of pictures that show where all of the wholes and clips are.
You must be registered for see images attach

Lower piece backside.
You must be registered for see images attach

Upper peice backside
You must be registered for see images attach



Hopefull this helps some of you.
 

glendayle

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
224
Reaction score
17
Location
SLC, UT
Another thing. After you get the pillar loose, you will want to remove the seat belt mechanism. Also t50s. Be careful with a ratchet. I can see someone smacking the window with a handle and breaking the window.
 

glendayle

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
224
Reaction score
17
Location
SLC, UT
So here is my modified sub plan. As I was looking at the rear, I thought that I could mount a sub in the rear pillar. I tried a couple of different sized cutouts for a 10" and an 8". The 10 is too big, but I believe an 8" will fit here just perfectly. The pioneer shallow mount 8" has a super shallow mounting depth that will certainly fit here. I've been measuring and I think I can make an MDF sized enclosure large enough to house the sub in the pillar and it will fit through that large opening where the cubby hole goes. I'm looking at a 2 piece metal grill cover and I think I can get some tan matching paint. It will hardly be noticeable. I'm going to mount the amp underneath the rear seat behind the jack housing. If there isn't any room there I may opt to switch to under the drivers seat, but I'm really trying to make everything as inconspicuous and unnoticeable as possible. This really has nothing to do with being afraid of theft, just want it to seem like it came from the factory like that.
You must be registered for see images attach


I also picked up some of this "speedwire" for my autodim/compass/temp mirror. Also looking for an overhead console. This stuff is normally used for stereo installs, but it was inexpensive and I thought would be perfect for this application. Probably a little overkill at 18ga wire, but I thought if I end up running anything that sends a little more current I'd be set.
You must be registered for see images attach
 
Top