I'll admit it...I don't know jack sh*t about the internals of an engine.

[ChrisAU]

And despite this fact, I am tearing into mine next week.

Sort of. I am convinced it at least needs new intake manifold gaskets. While I'm at it, I'll be replacing the thermostat housing, thermostat gasket (it has new thermostat in it already), throttle body gasket, air cleaner gasket, and valve cover gaskets. I'm going to stuff every hole I see with the blue paper shop towels, I am paranoid about FME. While I have the intake off, I am going to town with some degreaser/cleaner and some toothbrushes. She's gonna be beautiful. Also going to paint the valve covers with Chevrolet orange engine enamel, I figure it will help me spot problems in the future while looking dang good.

Also going to clean the throttle body as good as I can. Of course the last steps will be all new coolant and a fresh oil change.

I'll be studying this over the next few days (Google GOLD IMO):

http://www.someotherplace.com/bb/projects/rh94intake.html

Now my questions:

1) Do I need a torque wrench? This is something I want to add to my personal tools, but I've always just rented one. Wondering if now might be a good time to get one.

2) How much does a shop normally charge to check timing and reset it? Pulling the distributor is what I am most worried about, and what I have the least understanding of.

3) The BIGGIE: Should I go ahead and do head gaskets while I'm in there? How much more work is involved?

My truck is not a DD. I would like to have it ready to go for this hunting season, and I'm already a bit behind. I am prepared to work slowly a couple hours a day for however long it takes to get this thing right. I don't want to have to worry about it for a while. I called today to a local shop I know and trust, but I am NOT paying someone $650 to do this when I know I can do it.

 

[JollyGreen]

You know, I don't know much about the internals either....and it would scare the **** out of me. Not only because I'm ignorant to some of the inner workings, but because mine is a DD and if I couldn't get things back together I would either (a. have to call some friends and head to the liquor store, or (b. pay someone to do it. Just thought I would say that I respect you for doing it and have not helped you answer your original questions at all.

 

[Mean Green]

1) Do I need a torque wrench? This is something I want to add to my personal tools, but I've always just rented one. Wondering if now might be a good time to get one.

2) How much does a shop normally charge to check timing and reset it? Pulling the distributor is what I am most worried about, and what I have the least understanding of.

3) The BIGGIE: Should I go ahead and do head gaskets while I'm in there? How much more work is involved?

My truck is not a DD. I would like to have it ready to go for this hunting season, and I'm already a bit behind. I am prepared to work slowly a couple hours a day for however long it takes to get this thing right. I don't want to have to worry about it for a while. I called today to a local shop I know and trust, but I am NOT paying someone $650 to do this when I know I can do it.

1) Yes, buy a torque wrench. I personally prefer the "Click" style torque wrench versus the older "beam" style. Worth the investment, because you WILL use it. Especially when you get into the internals of the engine.

2) That really varies, call around and check it out. Don't be scared about pulling the distributor, just make sure to label your plug wires, and it's not a bad idea to also get your #1 cylinder to TDC and note the location of the rotor and the distributor cab. Removing the distributor is easy, pull your cap off and loosen the hold down bolt (9/16" IIRC). Then the distributor will lift out, it will turn slightly when your removing it as the distributor gear comes unseated from the cam gear. Also check the pick up coil when you have the distributor cap off, these are prone to cracking.

3) No, unless a headgasket is failing. If you pull a head off, you are going to want to bring it in to the machine shop have it trued up and any other additional machine work it may need. So it will add a good amount of cost, and there is really no reason to do so unless you have reason to believe that one of the gaskets are bad!

Hopefully that helps answer a few of your questions!

 

[ChrisAU]

Yes that did, thanks!

 

[woody80z28]

When you pull the distributor, you can mark the housing where the rotor points to as an aid to realign it. If you have issues dropping it back in the same spot, take a screwdriver and turn the oil pump groove. This should keep you from needing to readjust timing.

I wouldn't pull the heads either. Then you run into the need for new exhaust gaskets and you'll need to relash your valves, etc. too.

 

[JonZ71]

^^ new head gaskets?

 

[ChrisAU]

I'll get a good torque wrench off Amazon soon, always wanted to have one in my arsenal. Sucks paying Autozone $100 to rent one. They also charge $100 for their 24" 1/2" breaker bar...found a 25" one on Amazon with great reviews for $27 shipped free in two days. Think I'll go ahead and get both, hopefully I won't need that big boy for this project though haha.

All this mechanical stuff is really putting a damper on my '92 GMC to '94+ Chevy change and my 6" w/ 35's plans...

 

[ChrisAU]

Another question: Whats the coolant capacity of these trucks? Is 18 quarts (4 1/2 gallons) correct?

 

[ChrisAU]

Alrighty, ordered everything at Advance and I'm going to pick it up Sunday and start...wish me luck.

 

[TBI355]

You are going to want to buy the best torque wrench that you can afford. Cheap ones don't keep their calibration well. And ALWAYS reset it to its lowest setting after use. Good luck with your project! I think you will find that once you understand how everything works together your confidence level will rise.