Ignition Control Module relocation?

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JackE

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I will be doing something much sooner. I have a goofy starting issue that I can't nail down so it's time to start swapping parts around to see if anything changes. I have a small block bracket laying around so I'll probably try that setup somewhere. Thanks for the ideas!
 

454cid

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I will be doing something much sooner. I have a goofy starting issue that I can't nail down so it's time to start swapping parts around to see if anything changes. I have a small block bracket laying around so I'll probably try that setup somewhere. Thanks for the ideas!

What's the truck doing?
 

JackE

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This happens about 50% of the time, but no consistency to it. Turn the key to start and it cranks well but too long, then fires but dies right away. Crank again and it starts normally. The other 50% of the time it starts normally. It's been doing this since I put it back together when I rebuilt it last summer. Part of that rebuild was new fuel pump, ICM, coil, crank and cam sensors. On my initial long test drive the engine died and wouldn't start back up. Had to trailer it home. Turns out I lost the tach signal wire out of the loom for my remote start and it grounded out on the hot EGR pipe. That fried the remote start brain, crank sensor, and I think the ICM. So in diagnoising that problem, it got another new ICM, coil and crank sensor. I removed the remote start to make sure that wasn't causing the problem. When I have the hard start, I get code 1352 - Ignition Control Module Circuit High Voltage. Two or three good starts in a row and the DTC goes off. Fuel pressure is 62 key on engine off, and 56-58 engine running. I thought it was fuel pressure because for a while if I cycled the pump 3 times it would start every time, but that makes no difference now. There is absolutely no consistence to when it acts up. Hot, cold, wet, dry, voltage load, no voltage load, full tank, empty tank, it does it in all of these situations, and it acts fine in all of these situations. I have a few extra parts laying around so I'm going to start swapping parts to see if anything makes a difference. I just lack the motivation to do much of anything in this cold snowy weather!

Edit: My motivation to finally get it done is this stupid cold weather! I need to figure it out so I can replace the remote start. There are few things I hate more than getting into a cold vehicle!
 
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454cid

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Interesting. Unfortunately, it sounds like you've covered much of what I'd suggest. My truck would often not want to start on the first try. I've always thought it was the injectors leaking. I would always prime the system and it would often start better. I would run into the most problems if I had run the truck, shut it off, and then came back and tried restarting.... long enough to drop pressure/flood, but not long enough for fuel to dissipate (1/2hour-45 minutes, maybe). Starting with the peddle down in "clear flood" mode didn't help, and was the first clue my diagnosis was not correct.

The past summer, my fuel pump was going bad... wouldn't always start, and I could get it going by pounding on the bottom of the fuel tank. After I replaced it, the truck starts normally, or very close to it. I may still need to replace the injectors, but it starts so much better now. It's a night and day difference. I used a Denso fuel pump. What did you use? Have you checked pressure recently? I've read some brands don't last long.

If my truck won't start, or starts poorly, I get a 1351 code. When Googling, it's always a "no start" condition, and an ICM is the solution. I've gotten that code, when I could start the truck, However. When I had a MAF problem, and the truck didn't want to start, I'd get the same 1351, and the truck would eventually start... I think the PCM would decide to ignore the MAF and run in Speed Density mode. I think there was a MAF code too.... maybe voltage low? Any way... my truck will set 1351 often. I got it yesterday when it wouln't start, which the ICM did fix.
 

Supercharged111

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I was thinking the whole bracket, but I like your idea of just the ICM I don't think it would be very hard to relocate just that. Years ago the Ford ICM was mounted to the distributor. I found one application where someone had moved it to the inner fender. So much easier to change. That would be a lot easier than making a new coil wire.

1994-95 Mustangs had the remote ICM as well as the late 5.0 Thunderbirds. The distributor housing was also different on those engines. Both components were compatible with the older distributor mounted ICM computers from what I recall.
 
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