1993GMCSierra
I'm Awesome
Hi all,
Replaced my headlight switch tonight, and somehow managed to finish off each of the 4 plastic posts that the screws go in to hold the headlight/dimmer assembly in place. I thought "Man! Now I've got to buy a new bezel, and figure out something quick in the meantime!"
After thinking for a few minutes, I put the gorilla glue and plastic JB Weld aside and did this...
This is for fixing the broken posts in the 1988-1994 GMC/Chevy trucks, buy may apply to the 1995+ ones too.
You will need:
Soldering Iron (30W pencil iron is fine)
Solder
40 AWG wire, preferably solid, not stranded. I'd recommend you use copper wire, as it's something the solder will stick to easily.
Needlenose pliers
Pencil (or thin pen)
Gorilla Glue, and a helper (both optional)
Now, this is assuming you have the little bits and pieces that broke off that you can reattach, if these are already missing, the only alternatives are to just use an adhesive of some sort to hold the switch assembly in there, or buy a new fascia panel.
First, remove the headlight switch assembly, and keep track of all the bits and pieces that break off the posts.
Do one post at a time, be patient, this will take some time (~20 minutes/post) unless you have small fingers, a steady hand, and are a bit lucky.
What you will be doing, is sticking all the pieces back on the post, wrapping it tightly with wire, and solder it, reinforcing the posts, making them stronger than they were new. It won't look pretty, but no one will ever see it, and you'll be good to go a long time if you do it right.
Snip a 4-6" length of the 40awg wire, and make a few "loops" around a pencil, or el cheapo "BIC" pen. You should have a few loops in the center, with 2-3" on each side left to work with. Slip the wire off the pen.
Using needlenose pliers, or simply tilt the panel and stick the pieces back on the corresponding post. You should now have a post made of a few cracked/broken pieces of plastic.
This is the part that takes time, be patient, and don't get frustrated. It took me awhile, but eventually I got it.
Grab the wire (which should be slightly larger in diameter than the post) and loop it over the post. Only allow the wire to "hover" about halfway down the post. If you start tightening from the bottom up, the pieces will fall out, and you'll have to start over again.
Tighten the wire around the post by pulling both sides until there is a bit of tension. Do not try to get it crazy tight, you'll only break the entire post.
Now, loop as much of the rest of the wire that you can around the post carefully, keeping a bit of tension on it. Once you feel you have enough (10-12 loops or so), or run out of wire, grab the end of the wire that is near the top of the post with your needlenose pliers. (Here is where a helper comes in handy).
Now, what you need to do, is have a helper hold a bit of tension on the wire with the pliers (compressing the cracks) while you heat up the wire, and apply the solder. The solder and wire will act as a steel re-inforcement, and prevent the switch assembly from breaking off in the future. Act quickly, if you heat it up for too long, the plastic will start to melt a bit (which is OK) and the coating in the ABS will get on the wire, making it harder to solder.
Once you've got some solder on it in a few spots,, stand back, and let it cool. I would also recommend you stick the soldering iron on the cracks near the top, as the plastic will melt a bit and re-fuse the post where the break was. You're done!
Make sure what you do not melt the plastic enough to damage the threaded inner portion. IF you melt the sides a bit, that's OK, as it'll re-fuse the broken bits together, just don't go too far with it.
Here are photos of mine done:
If your plastic is just cracked slightly and hasn't actually broken, you can try to touch it with the soldering iron to re-fuse the plastic, but it will likely break again in the future, the wire method will prevent this. If your post is intact, but broken off the fasica panel (like one of mine was) a dab of Gorilla glue will fix this up easily. Again, just a DAB of it.
Now, I'm not responsible for any damage you to do your panel, or yourself. Think logically, be smart. I had no problems at all, but I can't guarantee you won't. Feel free to PM/post here with any questions.
My headlight switch is now very solid, I can even "punch" the buttons with my finger and feel no movement.
Replaced my headlight switch tonight, and somehow managed to finish off each of the 4 plastic posts that the screws go in to hold the headlight/dimmer assembly in place. I thought "Man! Now I've got to buy a new bezel, and figure out something quick in the meantime!"
After thinking for a few minutes, I put the gorilla glue and plastic JB Weld aside and did this...
This is for fixing the broken posts in the 1988-1994 GMC/Chevy trucks, buy may apply to the 1995+ ones too.
You will need:
Soldering Iron (30W pencil iron is fine)
Solder
40 AWG wire, preferably solid, not stranded. I'd recommend you use copper wire, as it's something the solder will stick to easily.
Needlenose pliers
Pencil (or thin pen)
Gorilla Glue, and a helper (both optional)
Now, this is assuming you have the little bits and pieces that broke off that you can reattach, if these are already missing, the only alternatives are to just use an adhesive of some sort to hold the switch assembly in there, or buy a new fascia panel.
First, remove the headlight switch assembly, and keep track of all the bits and pieces that break off the posts.
Do one post at a time, be patient, this will take some time (~20 minutes/post) unless you have small fingers, a steady hand, and are a bit lucky.
What you will be doing, is sticking all the pieces back on the post, wrapping it tightly with wire, and solder it, reinforcing the posts, making them stronger than they were new. It won't look pretty, but no one will ever see it, and you'll be good to go a long time if you do it right.
You must be registered for see images attach
Snip a 4-6" length of the 40awg wire, and make a few "loops" around a pencil, or el cheapo "BIC" pen. You should have a few loops in the center, with 2-3" on each side left to work with. Slip the wire off the pen.
Using needlenose pliers, or simply tilt the panel and stick the pieces back on the corresponding post. You should now have a post made of a few cracked/broken pieces of plastic.
This is the part that takes time, be patient, and don't get frustrated. It took me awhile, but eventually I got it.
Grab the wire (which should be slightly larger in diameter than the post) and loop it over the post. Only allow the wire to "hover" about halfway down the post. If you start tightening from the bottom up, the pieces will fall out, and you'll have to start over again.
Tighten the wire around the post by pulling both sides until there is a bit of tension. Do not try to get it crazy tight, you'll only break the entire post.
Now, loop as much of the rest of the wire that you can around the post carefully, keeping a bit of tension on it. Once you feel you have enough (10-12 loops or so), or run out of wire, grab the end of the wire that is near the top of the post with your needlenose pliers. (Here is where a helper comes in handy).
Now, what you need to do, is have a helper hold a bit of tension on the wire with the pliers (compressing the cracks) while you heat up the wire, and apply the solder. The solder and wire will act as a steel re-inforcement, and prevent the switch assembly from breaking off in the future. Act quickly, if you heat it up for too long, the plastic will start to melt a bit (which is OK) and the coating in the ABS will get on the wire, making it harder to solder.
Once you've got some solder on it in a few spots,, stand back, and let it cool. I would also recommend you stick the soldering iron on the cracks near the top, as the plastic will melt a bit and re-fuse the post where the break was. You're done!
Make sure what you do not melt the plastic enough to damage the threaded inner portion. IF you melt the sides a bit, that's OK, as it'll re-fuse the broken bits together, just don't go too far with it.
Here are photos of mine done:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
If your plastic is just cracked slightly and hasn't actually broken, you can try to touch it with the soldering iron to re-fuse the plastic, but it will likely break again in the future, the wire method will prevent this. If your post is intact, but broken off the fasica panel (like one of mine was) a dab of Gorilla glue will fix this up easily. Again, just a DAB of it.
Now, I'm not responsible for any damage you to do your panel, or yourself. Think logically, be smart. I had no problems at all, but I can't guarantee you won't. Feel free to PM/post here with any questions.
My headlight switch is now very solid, I can even "punch" the buttons with my finger and feel no movement.
Last edited:
