How does the AC system work in early OBS models?

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PlayingWithTBI

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His early 90s suburban.
So, it probably was an R4 then? They usually don't come with an HP switch, you have to install one. Then check your air gap on the clutch, s/b 0.20" - 0.35" IIRC. I had a new NAPA compressor with a gap of >0.080" which proceeded to smoke the clutch within a week :mad: . BTW, adjusting the air gap is fun since the nut on the shaft bottoms out before you get to the proper gap, you have to drive the clutch on further to get there. It seems the nut is just there to keep it from flying off :rolleyes:
 

wb292

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You are correct. There is no high pressure cut-off switch on models w/o the recirc/fresh button on the control head. The high pressure switch on the back of the compressor is the Air Inlet Valve Pressure Switch. If you dont transfer the swicth to your new compressor, you can just ground the connector and then your system will work as if the switch is closed all the time (recirc enabled after 30s on Hi/Med, full cold)
I think this is the way to go here in Arizona. Looks like a easy way to get Rec all the time when on full cold. It should help keep me cool in a black truck. The compressor on my 90 454SS is making noise and I am going to replace it before summer. I have a one wire white switch but no way to know the pressure settings to replace it with a two wire. I can’t find any one wire switches.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I think this is the way to go here in Arizona. Looks like a easy way to get Rec all the time when on full cold. It should help keep me cool in a black truck.
I'd strongly urge you to rethink that. When it's hot (both ambient and engine) you shut off the engine, go do something, then come back in a little while, start up and turn the A/C back on, that's when it'll spike way over 500 PSI and blow something up. With the 2-wire high pressure shutoff switch it'll just cycle until pressures equalize more, then it'll run continuously. It's not a hard job to wire it in series with the low pressure cycling switch.
 

wb292

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Ok. Looks like I have a little confusion then. On my 91 K1500 I have the REC button and no high pressure switch on the compressor or anywhere else. Just the block off plug that came on the compressor. I replaced everything last year including the evaporator. I used a orifice tube for over 105F. That system only has the low pressure switch on the dryer. What would keep it from spiking to 500 and save it from blowing up?
 

PlayingWithTBI

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What would keep it from spiking to 500 and save it from blowing up?
Nothing will. Maybe someone replaced the compressor and didn't install the HP switch? They usually don't come with one. Are there a couple wires laying around near there? They s/b connected to each other or the compressor won't run at all.
 

bilbur

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The best solution (in my situation) for Recirculation / fresh air damper control is to take the single wire connection on the compressor ( Which is the air inlet valve motor pressure switch) and ground it to the block. Otherwise, the system relies on higher head pressure to select recirculation mode.
(I think the engineer was over thinking this when it was designed that way!)

The other two wire connection is the Compressor Clutch as you already know.

As long as you have the temperature set to maximum cold and the blower fan motor set to either Medium or High, the Recirculation / Fresh Air Damper will close to operate in recirculation mode.
If you change the temperature to a warmer setting or select low speed fan the damper will move to fresh air mode allowing fresh air in the cabin.
Also, My brand new OEM GM compressor does not have that air inlet valve motor pressure switch installed on it.
A win Win to just omit the thing!
I learned this after removing my entire dash and replacing both the Evaporator and Heater cores during my restoration.
I wanted to make sure all was well before I reinstalled my dash board!
I had to tinker around to find out why the recirculation Damper was not opening with an uncharged AC system.
There is always something more to do with a restoration project!
 

bilbur

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OK, I want to address the comments made on the third page that I had not read.
So, I am learning that the ECU monitors the The air inlet valve motor pressure switch to decide weather or not to engage the AC clutch.
In my case I will just wait for the refrigerant pressures to equalize before I engage the AC.
So, the air inlet valve motor pressure switch has two functions actually.
One to measure High head pressure and to control the recirculation damper!
My 1988 has only a one wire AIVMPS.
Thanks for all the info.
I wanted to contribute something after spending hours trouble shooting.
IT took me awhile to identify the air inlet valve motor pressure switch.
Referred to as: AIVMPS
OK, the engineer was really a smart guy!
Why the heck did they not just add a recirculation control button!
 

PlayingWithTBI

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My 1988 has only a one wire AIVMPS.
Thanks for all the info.
I wanted to contribute something after spending hours trouble shooting.
IT took me awhile to identify the air inlet valve motor pressure switch.
Referred to as: AIVMPS
OK, the engineer was really a smart guy!
Why the heck did they not just add a recirculation control button!
That Air Inlet Valve Pressure Switch was discontinued by GM since this was originally an R12 system which ran lower pressures than R134A. It was cheaper to just put in a timer which will automatically put it in "Recirc" after 30 seconds when A/C is on, set at coldest setting, and fan set at Med or Hi.

You still don't have a high pressure safety switch unless you rewire one in like I did. I suggest you read the entire thread ;)
 

PlayingWithTBI

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You'd be nuts to not replace EVERY O-ring in the system, and the accumulator/desiccant pouch at the same time.

Inspect the condenser for dirt/birds/folded or corroded fins; replace as needed.
This is an old thread brought back to life. It's been years since I worked on my A/C and it's still going strong. I did replace the receiver/dryer, orifice tube, compressor, condenser (with a parallel flow one), and whatever O-rings I disturbed. I do lose a little refrigerant so, I throw a can in at the beginning of the hot season. I bought a case of R134A last year and just opened it last Month. :waytogo:
 
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