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MOBS

The Mad Scientist
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sorry for jumping off topic here but i thought the 6.5 wasnt that great of a motor???? correct me if im wrong but i know sevral local guys that have them and hate them (gas millage sucks and i know a buddy that Has went throuogh two rebuilt motors in less then like 8 years, somthing about the crank messing up or somthing i duno) ive never looked into them because i have never wanted one, ive always wanted a OBS with a cummins in it. maybe someone can chime in on this. if they are bad id hate for you to get one and have problems.

The light-duty engine blocks are crack-prone around the crank journals, that may be what you're referring to. They're good engines, but the light-duty models have all the emissions crap, which takes away alot of their power over 2k rpm, and takes away +90% power when the failure-prone vacuum pump gives way. The good thing is, you can run a mechanical dump valve conversion and set the bleed-off to 10psi(it'll spike to 12-13), and if you choose, you can have your ecm tuned to accept higher psi before dieseling, or manually bypass the circuit with a 3.5volt bypass kit. Deleting the vac pump will decrease strain on rotating assembly, and possibility of losing a belt when it locks up. The head gaskets blow at +14psi, I have mine locked shut and it won't reach 14psi until you're pulling 3.2k rpm....which I never run it that high anyway. The 6.5L-light duty engine was engineered for mpg, so the 25mpg hwy is VERY attainable....with the above conversions(for longterm dependability and towing power) you'll see around 18-19mpg, but with a fresh rebuild, strengthened block lowers, powertune(for max hp/tq numbers), and an upgrade in turbine(just go up 1 size is all), the 325hp/615tq at the crank is the average numbers attained.

Sorry for rambling.....

EDIT: Just noticed he said it was the light duty engine. If you don't get that truck, make sure you look for the HD version of that engine.

Also, if you're wanting the 6.5l, then look mainly for the 92-94 models, as they have the best blocks. The difference in the HD versus LD engines is the VIN code(8th digit: S=LD, F=HD), the LD has egr while HD does not, the LD has a crappy upper intake plenum compared to the HD, the LD's heads have different pre-cups for MPGs versus the HD head's pre-cups for maximum power gain, the LD's chip is tuned for a mix of mpg and power favoring mpg while the HD's chip is tuned for maximum power gains and reliability.

Stay away from the 97 models, their engines are lemons, specifically due to the way the tooling was used when producing them....they will crack from the top all the way down to the main bearing along the oil passages.

When you get one, if it hasn't already been done, you need to remote mount your PMD onto a big heatsink. Also keep a spare PMD in your truck at all times. If you ever get stranded, the PMD has a limp mode that allows you to still get enough power to move....if the PMD craps out, you're dead in the water. Ofcourse this is only in 94+ models with the EFI....pre-94's had MFI.
 
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withoutfear33

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The light-duty engine blocks are crack-prone around the crank journals, that may be what you're referring to. They're good engines, but the light-duty models have all the emissions crap, which takes away alot of their power over 2k rpm, and takes away +90% power when the failure-prone vacuum pump gives way. The good thing is, you can run a mechanical dump valve conversion and set the bleed-off to 10psi(it'll spike to 12-13), and if you choose, you can have your ecm tuned to accept higher psi before dieseling, or manually bypass the circuit with a 3.5volt bypass kit. Deleting the vac pump will decrease strain on rotating assembly, and possibility of losing a belt when it locks up. The head gaskets blow at +14psi, I have mine locked shut and it won't reach 14psi until you're pulling 3.2k rpm....which I never run it that high anyway. The 6.5L-light duty engine was engineered for mpg, so the 25mpg hwy is VERY attainable....with the above conversions(for longterm dependability and towing power) you'll see around 18-19mpg, but with a fresh rebuild, strengthened block lowers, powertune(for max hp/tq numbers), and an upgrade in turbine(just go up 1 size is all), the 325hp/615tq at the crank is the average numbers attained.

Sorry for rambling.....


lol i didnt know that.. i just know of some local guys bitching about them all the time because they are always having problems. i myself have never owned one but it sounds like you can get decent #s out of them.. im not sure what was up with his crank i just know ive heard a few people say they had crank probs.. maybe what your talking about is what happend to them im not sure.. so if it has emissions its a light duty engine, any idea what years they come in just so ill know for future refrence.. so the ones with out emissions are the better motors right?
 

MOBS

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lol i didnt know that.. i just know of some local guys bitching about them all the time because they are always having problems. i myself have never owned one but it sounds like you can get decent #s out of them.. im not sure what was up with his crank i just know ive heard a few people say they had crank probs.. maybe what your talking about is what happend to them im not sure.. so if it has emissions its a light duty engine, any idea what years they come in just so ill know for future refrence.. so the ones with out emissions are the better motors right?

Technically they're the same except for upper intake, emissions crap, heads(pre-cups to be exact), and tune. I updated previous post with more info.
 

MOBS

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With the exception of bragging rights, if there were 2 trucks with identical features, and condition, but one was a z71 and other a standard 4x4, if the z71 was more than $500 over the 4x4, I'd get the 4x4. You can get plates and shocks for less than that, and the badge is everywhere nowadays, so nothing fancy.
 

blackshirts

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144k miles and actually the 6.5l is a great motor if u correct a few errors like relocate the pmd out of factory it was placed in a in-efficient spot to stay cool, 6.5ls get amazing milage anywer from 18-24 factory....my vortec 350 only gets 20:(....the cranks r known to twist at about 300k miles and head gastkets at 200k other than that they r pretty great the 1998 also cvame with oil injected pistons and a larger turbo....if i buy this truck ill eventually rebuild it bottom up anyways they *** factory with 21:1 compresseion id put in 17:2 or 18:1 pistons in with a came, hx35 turbo,intercooler, and 150hp injectors and a industrial injector pump and it would be a bad ass machine....:p the 6.5l does have a shakey history yes but most is myth they are great on milage and reliability if treated right and the pmd relocated, they do have sorta low power though due to that goddamn 21:1 compression :(
check this site out its very good
http://www.forgottendiesels.com/6.5_gm.html
 

blackshirts

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haha didnt c MOBS rant up there about them...and i donno if i want this truck....rear bumper looks slightly crooked and tailgate/inside of the box is pretty beat but other than that its a fairly rare truck 1998's came with bigger turbos and a 98 6.5l in general is pretty rare but in a k1500 ive never seen before i ussually only c 94-95 k1500 6.5ls
 

FastOrange

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First off, looks like you just want a diesel to be a cool ass kid, gonna tell you right now, thats going to cost you more money in the long run!

also, if your 350 is putting down 20MPG, why the **** do you want a different truck that could possibly only get 18 MPG? again, i assume just to be a cool diesel boy.

and also, you just said

"the cranks r known to twist at about 300k miles and head gastkets at 200k other than that they r pretty great"

How the **** is that a great engine? sounds like a POS to be honest, i have never heard of 350's twisting cranks at a certain mileage!

trust me, i just went through this whole "im gonna be a cool diesel kid", put myself in debt and bought my dad's 2002 Duramax, felt cool for about a month, then stopped driving the POS cause i was scared something was going to crap out on me, and didnt want to be put even more debt over that.

just saying, its your life, but if i was you and making $35,000 a year, SAVE!
 
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