Help, seize when cranking on cold starts

[L31MaxExpress]

pre-1996, sir.. the gmt400's were OBD1, TBI, all the way thru 1995.

Richard

98 in some places.

97 L31 TBI

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[someotherguy]

98 in some places.

97 L31 TBI

You must be registered for see images attach

Outside U.S. market, you mean, right? Pretty sure fed requirements were ODB2 by 1996.

Lots of stuff different once you get outside the U.S. They still made GMT455 3500HD's in Mexico through 2006, possibly 2007. 6.5td's and 8.1's

Richard

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Outside U.S. market, you mean, right? Pretty sure fed requirements were ODB2 by 1996.

Lots of stuff different once you get outside the U.S. They still made GMT455 3500HD's in Mexico through 2006, possibly 2007. 6.5td's and 8.1's

Richard

Not everything in the US was OBD2 in 96. The TBI soldiered on until 98 in some stuff, like the old body style 96 G30 vans, the P30 chassis until 1998 (RVs), and 366/427 medium duty trucks like school buses and uhaul cab and chassis.

They built the GMT800s with the L31 through 2007. Recently found out you could get a 2003+ Suburban with a L31/5spd/4x4 and cat eye front clip. I had a 2003 Tahoe built that way.

They built the GMT400 chassis with a TBI and later MPFI 250 I6 until 2000. They also offered it with a MWM 4.2L I6 Turbo diesel. Ford put the same MWM 4.2L in place of the PowerJoke in their trucks.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Outside U.S. market, you mean, right? Pretty sure fed requirements were ODB2 by 1996.

Lots of stuff different once you get outside the U.S. They still made GMT455 3500HD's in Mexico through 2006, possibly 2007. 6.5td's and 8.1's

Richard

A lot of things got weird in the mid-late 90s starting at 8,600 GVW.

This was a 98 or 99 Express van I parted out a few years ago. Passenger air bags requirements did not apply for HD vehicles either.

I remember some other odd stuff too, like the first generation of Jeep Liberty in the early 2000s did not have ABS at all but could be ordered with it. I also drove more than 1 RHD Cherokee. Rural postal carriers could order the Cherokee as a RHD. They came with strobe lights on the turn signals too.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[someotherguy]

We've gone way off the rails of the topic but I'll have to say I believe those examples are definitely fringe examples. The medium duty stuff I believe was exempt anyway, and yeah, I've seen the TBI big block medium duty trucks. Wasn't aware the P30 chassis stayed that way but not surprised. I think my original point to Hawkdsl stands though in relation to his sentiment of owning a pre-Vortec truck.

Richard

 

[phantom 309]

I agree with viking dude,. poor ground,. the connection warms up makes better contact you are good to go,. check your ground connection is not going to an aluminum anything,. get it on to shiny clean piece of cast block or head,. if that didn't work for me i'd buy new battery cables

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I agree with viking dude,. poor ground,. the connection warms up makes better contact you are good to go,. check your ground connection is not going to an aluminum anything,. get it on to shiny clean piece of cast block or head,. if that didn't work for me i'd buy new battery cables

Funny you say that the ground should not be on aluminum. Auminum is an excellent conductor provided it is clean and not corroded. My 97 Express van has always had the ground cable on the lower bolt of the aluminum alternator bracket since day 1. The stock negative cable, GM replacement single piece positive cable and stock starter crank over my 11:1 383 with 230 psi of cranking compression effortlessly.

I do agree it sounds likely that it has a cable problem. The early GM dual positive cable setup was horrible and the GM replacements are 1 piece.

I also do not understand why anyone would fit a PMGR mini starter then remove it.

 

[texas tough]

maybe a poor ground, on some truck that have the aluminum assesory bracket, the main ground is bolted to the front of the bracket,, {NO BEuNO } ,!!!! I always relocate the ground, directly to the block, with a heavier gauge cable.. solid copper not the copper coated steel crap...
when the engine is warming up, the ground connection is likely improving as well as the oil is thinning as it warms, making it easier to crank.. try this,, turn the headlights on in the morning before you do the cold crank.. if the headlights dim alot when you start cranking, then there is a big amp draw.. this would indicate the starter is doing its job, but struggling. if the lights dont dim, its more likely that the electrical circuit, your cables and or connections. are not good.
i HIGHLY doubt hydraulic seizing because overnight, any fuel would evaporate.. if you suspect coolant, pull all of the plugs, and see if any of them look steam cleaned.. if they do, I wouldnt try to start it until u find out the issue,,

 

[texas tough]

also as was mentioned, you really need to check battery voltage FIRST .. you could have a small parasitic draw, and the battery is not fully charged.. I know you tried to jump it off with cables, but unless u have a set of good , heavy gauge copper jumper cables, it really doesnt mean much,. 95 percent of the jumper cables are worthless WHEN trying to jump start a V8 OR big V6..

 

[GoToGuy]

Any noticeable coolant loss, any sweet smelling exhaust? No, then disregard, diagnosis with what is known.