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My cruise doesn't work at all..

This past summer I was pulling the boat and my gf said my brake lights weren't working. As soon as I got home shut the truck off and unhooked the boat I went to the truck and hit the brakes.. Bam the lights worked..

Not sure if it's the light switch..or the trailer wires?

Then sometimes my wipers I go crazy.. If I just hit the spray sometimes they will go on for a while not just the 5 or whatever swipes.. Or even if I set it on the lowest automatic wiper setting it'll speed itself up..

Multifunction?

But I've read the 94 k1500 don't have a multifunction..?
 

someotherguy

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Cruise nonfunctional on an 88-94 is almost always broken wiring inside the cruise lever, right where it bends to go down into the column. You usually can't tell because the wires are so thin they break internally although the insulation may look OK. You can unplug the lever just under the dash (bright orange connector on a socket stuck to the dash near driver's left knee) and test the buttons/switches for continuity; there are only 4 fingers on the connector - a common and then the "set/decel" button, "on" switch, and "resume/accel" switch.

SOMETIMES it's a bad brake switch. 1994 was first year for the redesigned non-adjustable switch, and many of the early ones were actually recalled over the switch going bad prematurely. All of these switches are very cheaply made and can go bad in a way that you will still have brake lights but no cruise; there are several sets of contacts inside and they don't necessarily all go bad at once. Switch is inexpensive and easy to replace (sub-$20 and about 10 minutes of effort.)

If your brake lights work without the trailer connected then you probably have a wiring issue with your trailer harness. Just go over it carefully.

Wipers going nuts very common issue on every year of this body style. Cracked solder joints on the socket where the harness connects to the wiper motor. Very easy to remove the circuit board from the motor, resolder those joints, reinstall. I can knock them out myself in less than 20 minutes from hood open to hood closed. The soldering skill it takes is very basic, just if you're a beginner, know that you MUST use electronics (rosin core) solder, not plumbing (acid core.) There are 5 joints to hit and they're obvious as they're the ones where the socket attaches to the circuit board.

You could also buy a crummy Chinese replacement circuit board, but I prefer to fix the original.

Richard
 
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Wow thank you!

What do I need to replace the cruise lever?

I just want cruise back.. Thank you again!
 

someotherguy

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Test it first; a new one is a little pricey. Easy enough to replace though. Where you unplug it under the dash, you'll see a hole in the connector. Run a piece of mechanic's wire through it and bend it over so it can't pull out. Then pull the lever itself straight away from the column; it'll simply pop out of the socket inside the column (which is actually the electrical portion of the wiper switch.) Carefully pull the wiring up through the column with the mechanic's wire fed through along with it; once you have the lever's wiring fully out, you can transfer the end of the mechanic's wire to the new lever's wiring and fish it back down through the column.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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Usually the really cheap ones you're looking at are for trucks without cruise, and without delay wipers. Make sure you get the right one to match the features on your truck. Some of the off brands will have all the features and still be really cheap; might be your best bet...personally I'd lay out the cash for a real GM one. Last time I got one was several years ago and I got the "buddy price" at the dealer...still $75.

Some of those on eBay I don't know what ching chong company is making them. The clear jacket over the connector is something I haven't seen before. Looks el cheapo.

Richard
 
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