Help! Ignition 40 amp fuse keeps popping after motor swap

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whytry

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Ok so if I were to run a new wire from where it connects to the fuse panel down to the solenoid it should be fine right?
 

whytry

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Thanks for all the help everybody! Ended up being that wire! So ran a new one from fuse panel under hood to starter and done. She starts up. Doesn't run really well yet but working on it.

Has a backfire out the tailpipes but can't really see much ability to advance the dist on the ride. Pulled cap and if I line up one where it should be I can't put the cap back on. It hits the upper intake manifold. Could it be 180 out of phase?
 

Justin S

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Dang, too late to suggest replacing the fuse with a piece of wire and just simply looking for the smoke to find your short :D
 

Ken K

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I am not sure of what engine you are working with (5.7L w/Carb to LS Type III with EFI?). The new starter circuits use 40 amps as these a small gear reduction starters. Try using a "Short Finder" or buy a "Transmitter" type wire tracer that are about $30 are Menards. One end goes into an isolated fuse circuit and generates a radio beeping noise, while providing a receiver wand with a volume wheel, to go across the harness / wire to find where the noise stops. It is like calling 811 for a locating service to find power wires, gas, water and cable in your yard before digging. A short finder works like a turn signal flasher and outs current into the circuit for a split second, allowing you to use an inductive amp meter held close to the wire or harness. It moves quickly each time the short finder clicks on. When it quits moving, the current flow stopped...Ta Da! short. I hate disturbing the harness as if for some case the short goes away...then what. Did I fix it - don't know? Will it short again - probably?
 
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