first modification suggestions

[TylerZ281500]

Holley tbi unit is crap if your going into engine mods you need to plan them out and then look.into what you need as far as fueling

Also.domt.do true duals honestly an h pipe or y pipe is uour.best way to go

 

[woody31]

Holley tbi unit is crap if your going into engine mods you need to plan them out and then look.into what you need as far as fueling

Also.domt.do true duals honestly an h pipe or y pipe is uour.best way to go

i hear ya,,, i can do a single 3 inch,,,and im sure it will be ok,,,also why not a k&n,, i ran one on my 362 cu. in. small block for 8 yrs,,never a issue,,always ran great and never had a issue with contamination,,as long as it is cleaned 2x a year and properly oiled,,anyone have a part # for the amsoil one?? thanks...cheers,,,

 

[95Escahoe]

i hear ya,,, i can do a single 3 inch,,,and im sure it will be ok,,,also why not a k&n,, i ran one on my 362 cu. in. small block for 8 yrs,,never a issue,,always ran great and never had a issue with contamination,,as long as it is cleaned 2x a year and properly oiled,,anyone have a part # for the amsoil one?? thanks...cheers,,,

Go on the Amsoil site and look it up can't remember it off the top of my head, some Chevy site tested a few air filters and K&N came it close to the bottom if not last, the Amsoil one is all synthetic fibers no oiling needed just clean when its dirty and that's it I got a slight mpg going to that from the K&N

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

 

[Rusty Nail]

IMO to even spend time thinking about TBI mods ATM is a waste of energy.

Adjust the timing. (Brown wire underneath relay cover) The factory setting is zero degrees advance and you can run up to 12 pretty easy with few supporting mods. I think anywhere around 8 is NOT unreasonable bone stock. The higher octane gas you run, the more advance you can utilize.
Trash the factory ignition module. Aftermarket ACCEL (or JEGS) modules are superior in every way, for cheap.
Think Major tune up.
plugs = DELCO R45TS@ @ 0.45 gap (16$), 8MM wires (35$), cap and rotor (25?$)jegs, 50,ooo volt coil (40$) jegs, pcv valve -(3$), oil change with 5-30 (30$).
You can remove the head pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and delete the choke block off from the end of the manifold..(you will probably have to replace those 2 bolts (2$)
There is another block off in the fresh air inlet of the air cleaner. You COULD run a sheetmetal screw through the bottom to hold it open. (0.10$)
Turn the air cleaner lid upside down and re-install.(free)
There is also an extended inlet tube you may like....(30$?) jegs
Replace oxygen sensor (30$), radiator cap and gas cap, thermostat(15$).
Fuel filter(7$).
There is a little known filter underneath the charcoal canister. Ask the guy in the auto parts store for a charcoal canister filter and he will GEEK OUT, but he will have it for sale. It'll be his first , most likely (2$).
Lube the front end(2$). Rotate the tires, verify pressure and check spare tire pressure also.(free)
Replace vacuum lines and check for leaks. (3$)

You will now smoke the piss out of a bone stock truck or even some d-bag with a loud Flowmaster and lots of chrome. Everybody knows engine chrome is directly proportional to horsepower....at least degrease it or something man, clean engines are happy engines (1.25$).


I would not dream of ever suggesting you delete the catalyic convertor because that is a federal crime and for me to say that you COULD replace it with a straight piece of pipe, would be against the law. A simple turbo muffler is both cheap and effective. Hooker makes a great one. -jegs

If you do all of that other stuff, you have spent more money then it would cost for a new pair of exhaust headers(120$?) jegs If you find that much money to dump into the truck again, that is WITHOUT QUESTION a very wise choice. After this point the power per dollar begins to climb but there are other very cheap mods to go if you are willing to make some sacrifices. Put 1.6 roller rockers on the list. -jegs

Consider changing the differential fluid and trans filter(80$) Don't forget the breather(2$) A 25,000 GVW trans cooler is your transmission's best friend 45$).

I don't even know what year that truck is but maybe someone could find a good tip in there. Those are all extremely solid tips and the GM C-3 is my speciality and you can fix it with a paperclip. If you dig my style and have questions, feel free to ask. Love on it good, they don't build em like that anymore!

I am after three things when I fix cars / trucks
1) Reliability
2) Dependability
3) Predictability

I recommend to all of my customers they change the same things I suggest to you to establish a schedule for servicing at regular intervals. Let's keep it from breaking now, we'll need to make more power and break it later, better. You need a solid foundation to build upon rather than considering taking a dremel to you TBI unit, just sayin....
There is no need to spend any REAL money just yet, first you gotta make sure you can't break it if you're trying to. Feel confident to drive it like you stole it. We can go LOTS faster than stock for 5 hundred bucks without getting into the engine. There are LOADS of bolt ons for an OBS truck.

First thing I ever did to any truck I owned was change the u-joints. I run ONLY the solid steel, heavy-duty guys. See how I am? I KNOW i'm gonna drive the crap out of it and I do NOT want to walk home.

Find lots of that stuff @ www.jegs.com

 

[woody31]

IMO to even spend time thinking about TBI mods ATM is a waste of energy.

Adjust the timing. The factory setting is zero degrees advance and you can run up to 12 pretty easy with few supporting mods. I think anywhere around 8 is NOT unreasonable bone stock. The higher octane gas you run, the more advance you can utilize.
Trash the factory ignition module. After market ACCEL modules are superior in every way, for cheap.
Think Major tune up.























plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, pcv valve, oil change with 5-30.
You can remove the head pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and delete the choke block off from the end of the manifold..
There is another block off in the fresh air inlet of the air cleaner. You COULD run a sheetmetal screw through the bottom to hold it open.
Turn the air cleaner lid upside down and re-install.
There is also an extended inlet tube you may like....
Replace oxygen sensor, radiator cap and gas cap.
Fuel filter.
There is a little known filter underneath the charcoal canister. Ask the guy in the auto parts store for a charcoal canister filter and he will GEEK OUT, but he will have it for sale. It'll be his first , most likely and it's 2 bucks.
Lube the front end. rotate tires, verify pressure and check spare tire pressure also.
Replace vacuum lines and check for leaks.

You will now smoke the piss out of a bone stock truck or even some d-bag with a loud Flowmaster and lots of chrome. Everybody knows engine chrome is directly proportional to horsepower....at least degrease it or something man, clean engines are happy engines.


I would not dream of ever suggesting you delete the catalyic convertor because that is a federal crime and for me to say that you COULD replace it with a straight piece of pipe, would be against the law.

If you do all of that other stuff, you have spent as much money as it would cost for a new pair of exhaust headers. If you find that much money to dump into the truck again, that is WITHOUT QUESTION a very wise choice. After this point the power per dollar begins to climb but there are other very cheap mods to go if you are willing to make some sacrifices.

Consider changing the differential fluid and trans filter. Don't forget the breather. A 25,000 GVW trans cooler is your transmission's best friend for 45 bucks.

I don't even know what year that truck is but maybe someone could find a good tip in there. Those are all extremely solid tips and the GM C-3 is my speciality.

Thank you for the reply, i have done all of the above,,minus the rear diff and trans service,,and judging by the work the previous owner had done i say it has been done as well,,i can see red silicone on the edge of the rear diff and trans fluid looks and smells fresh,,that sais,,it has a brand new distributor,,cap, rotor , wires, plugs,,ect,,i just rotated tires yesterday and checked air pressure,,this thing will roast the rear tires from a dead stop,,no power brake required,,it does have a pesky little exhaust leak,,its going to the muffler shop in a few hrs,,they open at 8 a.m. thanks again,,,now if i can just get the dam fuel gauge working,,,,see my other thread,,,cheers,,,,

 

[Rusty Nail]

Yeah, I just found the other thread to see it is a 98. ( I spent a lot of time editing my original post) Lots of that will NOT apply to you but the information is extremely solid until 1995. Best wishes to you and your new truck!

 

[woody31]

well it did not get to the muffler shop..had to stay home because we had our central a/c unit repaired..perhaps in a couple of weeks i can get it up there,,,so my next ?? is ,,,,the old standby,,,flowmaster 40 series,,,or something else,,,glass packs are not a option,,,thanks

 

[michael hurd]

IMO to even spend time thinking about TBI mods ATM is a waste of energy.

Adjust the timing. (Brown wire underneath relay cover) The factory setting is zero degrees advance and you can run up to 12 pretty easy with few supporting mods. I think anywhere around 8 is NOT unreasonable bone stock. The higher octane gas you run, the more advance you can utilize.
Trash the factory ignition module. Aftermarket ACCEL (or JEGS) modules are superior in every way, for cheap.
Think Major tune up.
plugs = DELCO R45TS@ @ 0.45 gap (16$), 8MM wires (35$), cap and rotor (25?$)jegs, 50,ooo volt coil (40$) jegs, pcv valve -(3$), oil change with 5-30 (30$).
You can remove the head pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and delete the choke block off from the end of the manifold..(you will probably have to replace those 2 bolts (2$)
There is another block off in the fresh air inlet of the air cleaner. You COULD run a sheetmetal screw through the bottom to hold it open. (0.10$)
Turn the air cleaner lid upside down and re-install.(free)
There is also an extended inlet tube you may like....(30$?) jegs
Replace oxygen sensor (30$), radiator cap and gas cap, thermostat(15$).
Fuel filter(7$).
There is a little known filter underneath the charcoal canister. Ask the guy in the auto parts store for a charcoal canister filter and he will GEEK OUT, but he will have it for sale. It'll be his first , most likely (2$).
Lube the front end(2$). Rotate the tires, verify pressure and check spare tire pressure also.(free)
Replace vacuum lines and check for leaks. (3$)

You will now smoke the piss out of a bone stock truck or even some d-bag with a loud Flowmaster and lots of chrome. Everybody knows engine chrome is directly proportional to horsepower....at least degrease it or something man, clean engines are happy engines (1.25$).


I would not dream of ever suggesting you delete the catalyic convertor because that is a federal crime and for me to say that you COULD replace it with a straight piece of pipe, would be against the law. A simple turbo muffler is both cheap and effective. Hooker makes a great one. -jegs

If you do all of that other stuff, you have spent more money then it would cost for a new pair of exhaust headers(120$?) jegs If you find that much money to dump into the truck again, that is WITHOUT QUESTION a very wise choice. After this point the power per dollar begins to climb but there are other very cheap mods to go if you are willing to make some sacrifices. Put 1.6 roller rockers on the list. -jegs

Consider changing the differential fluid and trans filter(80$) Don't forget the breather(2$) A 25,000 GVW trans cooler is your transmission's best friend 45$).

I don't even know what year that truck is but maybe someone could find a good tip in there. Those are all extremely solid tips and the GM C-3 is my speciality and you can fix it with a paperclip. If you dig my style and have questions, feel free to ask. Love on it good, they don't build em like that anymore!

I am after three things when I fix cars / trucks
1) Reliability
2) Dependability
3) Predictability

I recommend to all of my customers they change the same things I suggest to you to establish a schedule for servicing at regular intervals. Let's keep it from breaking now, we'll need to make more power and break it later, better. You need a solid foundation to build upon rather than considering taking a dremel to you TBI unit, just sayin....
There is no need to spend any REAL money just yet, first you gotta make sure you can't break it if you're trying to. Feel confident to drive it like you stole it. We can go LOTS faster than stock for 5 hundred bucks without getting into the engine. There are LOADS of bolt ons for an OBS truck.

First thing I ever did to any truck I owned was change the u-joints. I run ONLY the solid steel, heavy-duty guys. See how I am? I KNOW i'm gonna drive the crap out of it and I do NOT want to walk home.

Find lots of that stuff @ www.jegs.com

This is the truth! ^^^ great post

Lots of people omit an oxygen sensor as part of a tune up, but even if it's working, it may not be swinging fast enough.

 

[woody31]

thanks for the reply,,,it has been changed as well,.,,,

 

[thz71]

IMO to even spend time thinking about TBI mods ATM is a waste of energy.

Adjust the timing. (Brown wire underneath relay cover) The factory setting is zero degrees advance and you can run up to 12 pretty easy with few supporting mods. I think anywhere around 8 is NOT unreasonable bone stock. The higher octane gas you run, the more advance you can utilize.
Trash the factory ignition module. Aftermarket ACCEL (or JEGS) modules are superior in every way, for cheap.
Think Major tune up.
plugs = DELCO R45TS@ @ 0.45 gap (16$), 8MM wires (35$), cap and rotor (25?$)jegs, 50,ooo volt coil (40$) jegs, pcv valve -(3$), oil change with 5-30 (30$).
You can remove the head pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and delete the choke block off from the end of the manifold..(you will probably have to replace those 2 bolts (2$)
There is another block off in the fresh air inlet of the air cleaner. You COULD run a sheetmetal screw through the bottom to hold it open. (0.10$)
Turn the air cleaner lid upside down and re-install.(free)
There is also an extended inlet tube you may like....(30$?) jegs
Replace oxygen sensor (30$), radiator cap and gas cap, thermostat(15$).
Fuel filter(7$).
There is a little known filter underneath the charcoal canister. Ask the guy in the auto parts store for a charcoal canister filter and he will GEEK OUT, but he will have it for sale. It'll be his first , most likely (2$).
Lube the front end(2$). Rotate the tires, verify pressure and check spare tire pressure also.(free)
Replace vacuum lines and check for leaks. (3$)

You will now smoke the piss out of a bone stock truck or even some d-bag with a loud Flowmaster and lots of chrome. Everybody knows engine chrome is directly proportional to horsepower....at least degrease it or something man, clean engines are happy engines (1.25$).


I would not dream of ever suggesting you delete the catalyic convertor because that is a federal crime and for me to say that you COULD replace it with a straight piece of pipe, would be against the law. A simple turbo muffler is both cheap and effective. Hooker makes a great one. -jegs

If you do all of that other stuff, you have spent more money then it would cost for a new pair of exhaust headers(120$?) jegs If you find that much money to dump into the truck again, that is WITHOUT QUESTION a very wise choice. After this point the power per dollar begins to climb but there are other very cheap mods to go if you are willing to make some sacrifices. Put 1.6 roller rockers on the list. -jegs

Consider changing the differential fluid and trans filter(80$) Don't forget the breather(2$) A 25,000 GVW trans cooler is your transmission's best friend 45$).

I don't even know what year that truck is but maybe someone could find a good tip in there. Those are all extremely solid tips and the GM C-3 is my speciality and you can fix it with a paperclip. If you dig my style and have questions, feel free to ask. Love on it good, they don't build em like that anymore!

I am after three things when I fix cars / trucks
1) Reliability
2) Dependability
3) Predictability

I recommend to all of my customers they change the same things I suggest to you to establish a schedule for servicing at regular intervals. Let's keep it from breaking now, we'll need to make more power and break it later, better. You need a solid foundation to build upon rather than considering taking a dremel to you TBI unit, just sayin....
There is no need to spend any REAL money just yet, first you gotta make sure you can't break it if you're trying to. Feel confident to drive it like you stole it. We can go LOTS faster than stock for 5 hundred bucks without getting into the engine. There are LOADS of bolt ons for an OBS truck.

First thing I ever did to any truck I owned was change the u-joints. I run ONLY the solid steel, heavy-duty guys. See how I am? I KNOW i'm gonna drive the crap out of it and I do NOT want to walk home.

Find lots of that stuff @ www.jegs.com

I like this guy lol