False error code

[Aloicious]

a small vacuum leak of un metered air should cause a lean issue instead of a rich one like you're getting. a vac leak would also possibly cause some drivability issues which it doesn't sound like you're getting either. rich conditions may not cause drivability issues to start with, but they'll waste fuel, and eventually they can cause cat failure, O2 sensor failure, cylinder washout, etc if not attended to. if its a REALLY bad fuel leak in the intake, it can also cause cylinder hydrolock which can cause some serious damage, so you won't want to ignore it.

there is also still a remote possibility its the O2 sensor itself, I kinda doubt it at this point, but when you're under there moving the bank 1 sensor, you might as well swap the sensors side to side, and watch to see if the code follows the sensor or not...

 

[flyboy1294]

a small vacuum leak of un metered air should cause a lean issue instead of a rich one like you're getting. a vac leak would also possibly cause some drivability issues which it doesn't sound like you're getting either. rich conditions may not cause drivability issues to start with, but they'll waste fuel, and eventually they can cause cat failure, O2 sensor failure, cylinder washout, etc if not attended to. if its a REALLY bad fuel leak in the intake, it can also cause cylinder hydrolock which can cause some serious damage, so you won't want to ignore it.

there is also still a remote possibility its the O2 sensor itself, I kinda doubt it at this point, but when you're under there moving the bank 1 sensor, you might as well swap the sensors side to side, and watch to see if the code follows the sensor or not...

Thank you for the info on the vac leak. Like you said, I have no drivability issues whatsoever. I will make note of my mileage this week to try to verify.

The 02 sensors all showed correct voltage on the scan tool last time it was checked. However, I am going to take it to get that left 02 fixed this week. I will switch the 02s check and see if the code follows the 02 or not.

From what you are describing it definitely may have a small injector leak. If I take off the intake, will I be able to tell for certain that the injectors are leaking without removing them?

 

[Aloicious]

not really as far as an injector leak is concerned, you won't be able to see much, but you may be able to see if the regulator is leaking, sometimes it will leak out of the fuel body and leave cleaned puddle spots on the intake manifold floor....however the inside of the manifold will likely be VERY dirty. they get pretty gunked up because of the PCV oil vapors mixing with the EGR gasses over time, so you may not be able to see anything even if it is leaking.

here is an example of the type of dirtyness you might be able to expect to find:

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the front of the manifold will be sooty from the EGR, the back will be oily from the PCV, this manifold and spider was correctly working at the time of removal, if the regulator was leaking onto the manifold floor, you'd see little cleaned spots around the metering body from where the fuel cleaned up the oil/soot, maybe...

I think its most likely a leak with the spider somewhere, either injector or regulator, both of those leaks are fairly common...

 

[flyboy1294]

not really as far as an injector leak is concerned, you won't be able to see much, but you may be able to see if the regulator is leaking, sometimes it will leak out of the fuel body and leave cleaned puddle spots on the intake manifold floor....however the inside of the manifold will likely be VERY dirty. they get pretty gunked up because of the PCV oil vapors mixing with the EGR gasses over time, so you may not be able to see anything even if it is leaking.

here is an example of the type of dirtyness you might be able to expect to find:

You must be registered for see images attach

the front of the manifold will be sooty from the EGR, the back will be oily from the PCV, this manifold and spider was correctly working at the time of removal, if the regulator was leaking onto the manifold floor, you'd see little cleaned spots around the metering body from where the fuel cleaned up the oil/soot, maybe...

I think its most likely a leak with the spider somewhere, either injector or regulator, both of those leaks are fairly common...

Okay. I will probably take it to a shop and have them do it. The labor to take the intake off will be high enough to where I might as well put a new spider in there regardless.

Let me run this by you real quickly though just to be sure. I drove the truck 30 more miles today, and still no check engine light. Normally the light comes on within 20 miles of driving in the past. This makes 150 miles since a scan tool was hooked to it to reset the codes. Before I started this thread, my mechanic did look at it and replace the coolant temp sensor. He said that it was causing the truck to run rich because it was telling the PCM it was always cold. He made the light go off by unhooking my battery for a few minutes. Is there anyway these codes were left over from when there was a problem? Or is that just wishful thinking? I am unfamiliar with how these PCMs work.

 

[Aloicious]

you don't need to remove the whole intake, just the upper plastic portion of it, its not very hard but if you want to have a shop do it you can...

no, once the codes are cleared there is no 'left over' codes, and from my understanding of what is going on, you've had several codes show up after you had it at the mechanic, correct? if I understand that correctly, then that means you still have issues...sure a bad ECT will make it run rich, but you shouldn't be getting more rich codes after its replaced and cleared....but move the O2 sensor first and keep a watch on it if you want to make sure before spending the money.....

and if your mechanic cleared the codes by unhooking the battery, please find a new mechanic. sure unhooking the battery will clear the codes, but that is a REALLY jimmy rigging way of doing it that started back when OBDII was new and proper scanners were expensive, as a professional mechanic he should be able to read and clear codes with a proper scanner (its easier with one too) they're cheap and plentiful nowadays there is no excuse for a professional shop to be unhooking batteries to clear codes.