experienced advice requested for overhaul

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gibsonfarmsmo

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Hello,
I'm new to the forum but have been referencing from it for many years now. A little bit of background. I have two of these series of trucks. 98 2500 silverado, and 98 2500 sierra. Purchased used several years apart. I never intended to have two of the same trucks, but that is just how it worked out. Both possessing 5.7 vortecs, 5 speeds, and regular cabs. The difference being color (exterior and interior) and gear ratios (one 3:73, the other 4:10). I was in high school around the time the last of this series came out and was always a fan on them. I found them to be reliable, well built, and just an all around good work truck (because that is what a truck is used for, right?). I live in a rural farming area, and you see these trucks on the road more than any other make of this same genre (like 5 to 1...). The reason I stay with these trucks is very logical to me. I own them. No payments! In stock form, a newer truck with a 6.0 is hard to beat, but thrashed 10 year old truck around here still demands $12K. I figure I could put upwards of $5k into each truck and still be ahead of the game.

Anyway, here is where I am at. My job has pushed me into a different field (same job, just different "job"). This will require me to tug around a 8-10K load on a somewhat regular basis. That being the case, I need to delegate one of these trucks for this duty. My choice has been the 4:10 gmc. Its still pretty solid despite its 20 year age and 161,000 miles. I have decided, on a preventative plan, to pull the motor and go through it (rings, pistons, bearings, etc...). This change in work won't really pick up until after the first of the year, so I have plenty of time to do this. This truck will be my daily driver for the distant future so I really can't afford to have it go down on me. I'm no stranger to engine rebuilds so it's not the task or skill that I'm having trouble with, its cam selection.

when looking at cams, I know what all the numbers means, and I can decipher a dyno chart. In my case I'm looking for something with close to the same duration (@.050), but with some more lift. I'm retaining the original factory intake (with MPFI replaced over the spider injectors) and vortec heads. I'm aware of the limits factory lift springs, so I don't intend on going wild with lift. If over .475 I'll opt for the comp beehive, or the ls1 springs. I would love to go the route of the marine MPFI intake, but they appear to be made out of unobtainium.... A 0411 ecm will likely be added as well for tunability. Stock exhaust is fine with me. If anything a higher flow cat and a series 70 big block ii muffler. I don't like a "rumble" on a truck and I figure the engineers at GM kind of knew what they were doing.

commonly I have found that people have gone with the GM "395" cam that adds some duration and lift, but it falls off by 2 degrees at lsa (ecm friendly 111 stock to 109 "395"). here is where I'm struggling the most. This truck isn't a late 60 muscle car, nor to be found running down a 1/8 mile strip. Dyno charts and cam numbers seem to show engines running in the RPM range which just isn't practical for a daily driven work truck that weighs nearly 6K empty, especially pulling a load. I don't need nor want a lope of the engine at idle or at highway speed. I'm often times conducting business while driving and don't need the hum or rumble of the truck impeding the conversations.

I know there is a trade off from performance to stock, and I'm willing to accept some. I guess my question is, would I benefit from a slightly larger cam (likely to find something with similar duration with more lift), or would a set of 1.6 roller rocker achieve close to the same results (raising lift by about .030).

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for writing a book here.....
 
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df2x4

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Sorry I'm no help as both of my trucks' engines have never been opened up, but welcome to the site from another MO resident! Post some pictures of the trucks if you get a chance!
 

gibsonfarmsmo

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wow, i just re-read my post and it seems like I'm picky and asking a lot. That certainly wasn't my intention. I'm basically looking for a smooth idle, with perhaps some increased lower to mid range power. vortec 5.7 was/is a decent motor, but certainly not a tow/torq monster. I know you have to let small blocks rev out to get decent power, I just hoping for a little more....
 

gibsonfarmsmo

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Sorry I'm no help as both of my trucks' engines have never been opened up, but welcome to the site from another MO resident! Post some pictures of the trucks if you get a chance!
so good see another missourian. I'd load up some pics, but honestly, these are nothing special. Surprisingly they are rust free, but are just your standard 3/4 ton farm trucks. I don't think either of them know what the inside of a garage looks like, nor have they every felt a chamois or tasted turtle wax...

The white one got some new shoes this year. I opted for BFG all terrains (standard size 10 ply 245's, once again GM engineers knew what they were doing). Sounds crazy because these tires cost 1/3 of what the truck blue books at, but oh well.
 

redfishsc

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Just delete the "vortec" resonator box on your intake and cap it off. Also, yank the cover off the air filter box. These two won't give you a lick of extra power but you'll think it will with the lovely, throaty growl you'll hear.

Now, in all seriousness, your 5.7 should be a 4-bolt main. I wouldn't consider 160K miles to be that big of a deal unless I had other problems or it's been overheated badly.
 

df2x4

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Just delete the "vortec" resonator box on your intake and cap it off. Also, yank the cover off the air filter box. These two won't give you a lick of extra power but you'll think it will with the lovely, throaty growl you'll hear.

First part of this statement won't hurt anything. Regarding the airbox lid though, I don't think I'd trade lower intake air temperatures for more noise. :lol:
 

gibsonfarmsmo

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Just delete the "vortec" resonator box on your intake and cap it off. Also, yank the cover off the air filter box. These two won't give you a lick of extra power but you'll think it will with the lovely, throaty growl you'll hear.

Now, in all seriousness, your 5.7 should be a 4-bolt main. I wouldn't consider 160K miles to be that big of a deal unless I had other problems or it's been overheated badly.
the previous owner had installed a fram air hog cold air setup on it. I've cleaned it once, not convinced it helps. It is a 4 bolt and I haven't put incredible amount of miles on it since I bought it. currently it's not a daily driver. However it will be. I live in a rural area so i often times will have to travel a decent distance (towing a load) to get to the jobsite. I don't know the complete history of the truck or the engine. I get a slight lifter knock at cold startup, but it smooths out.

I have been stranded many miles from home when a previous truck broke a rod while towing. That was an unpleasant experience and became very expensive to get home and I don't want to repeat. a rebuild though more costly than a tow home, is not outrageous in price and worth it for my piece of mind. Plus the clutch is getting a little weak, and based on my previous experience, it may be easier to pull the motor and transmission than laying on the cold concrete under the truck for hours while trying to horse around a 400# transmission with a heavy transfer case hanging on it.....
 

gibsonfarmsmo

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there is something I've been thinking about though. I know it's somewhat comparing apples to oranges. well same company, so granny smith to red delicious.... Most can admit that the 6.0 that replaced the small block (5.3 as well) is a bit a beast from the factory. it has good power, smooth idle, and acceptable economy. I know its a completely different block with a different stroke, injection, and ignition systems (as well as many other changes). if a cam of the same specs as a 6.0 were found would it equate and work well in the 5.7? Or is it the unique head design, teamed with injection/ignition that makes this particular grind work well with the 6L? its specs are:

99-00 191/[email protected] .457/.466 114 LSA
01-04 196/[email protected] .467/.479 116 LSA
01-04 cam is same as Camaro, Corvette LS1 and LQ9 cam

By most standards, these are very mild cams, but they seem to be a winner for the 6.0


I hope I'm not getting in trouble by talking about a newer style truck engine....
 

df2x4

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It is my understanding that a cam for an LS based engine will not work well with an older small block. I have no experience to back that up, but I did a little digging a few months back looking at the Elgin "Sloppy Stage 2" LS cam and that's the conclusion I came to. Someone more knowledgeable please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
 

gibsonfarmsmo

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It is my understanding that a cam for an LS based engine will not work well with an older small block. I have no experience to back that up, but I did a little digging a few months back looking at the Elgin "Sloppy Stage 2" LS cam and that's the conclusion I came to. Someone more knowledgeable please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm certain a LQ4 cam won't fit a L31. But I can find a cam grind of the same specs that will fit
 
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