Difference between JB5 and JB6

[nobears]

So, I bought a 99 Suburban with JB5 brakes according to the Chevy house as the tag on the glovebox is missing, (and sorry if this has been covered but I couldn't find it) and the brakes suck. So far I replaced the leaking caliper on the front, new pads, new rotors, in the back I put in new wheel cylinders and drums, also put in a new vacuum booster and a NBS master cylinder. Bled the whole mess and had half decent brakes, pedal was going straight to the floor but I had pressure for the last 1/4 of the travel (just like before when I test drove the truck) so apparently it didn't fix anything other than a leaky caliper. So, needless to say I'm looking for brake upgrades now as they are to the point where I pretty much have no brakes at all. Which leads me to the question, what's the difference between JB5 and JB6? Could I have put JB5 shoes on a JB6 axle? How do I ID the two? I hear JB5 self adjusters don't work, can the JB6 hardware be retrofitted? Also, now I'm throwing an ABS circuit fault code.

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[magimerlin]

If the caliper and wheel cylinders where bad and after replaced those and the master too I have a feeling you have no bled out all the air from somewhere. Did you bench bleed the master?? When you bled the lines where you getting good looking fluid coming out or aerated fluid? Did you bleed them from furthest too closest to the master? After bleeding did you refill your master? At anytime during the bleeding process did the master go empty? If it did and you just fill it back up and kept going you might need to do the whole process over again as the air might have been sacked into the lines before the fluid did..



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[nobears]

Master was bench bled, fluid looked good, bled was passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front, drive fast down a dirt road, lock them up (or try to anyways) to get the ABS to kick on, repeat. Yes master was refilled, and never allowed to go dry. They were OK for a month or so and all of a sudden went back to crap

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