CEL Codes, and a misfire.

[81nascar]

Thanks for all the replies. Here's more info. Motor came out of a 97 K2500 Suburban, 180k miles. Ran like a top other than lots oil leak(like every imaginable gasket/seal). No codes, or miss at all. I used the majority of sensors from the motor that was originally in my truck minus crank pos sensor, and knock sensors(they stayed installed on the motor).

It is 100% a misfire. I also hear popping from the exhaust on deceleration. I am going to probably look at the timing chain. I forgot I messed with it(did not replace). I removed the cam gear to look at the teeth and the chain. Everything seemed ok, but a little sloppy. I should have replace it, but there were none in stock in town and I was trying to press on. Maybe I am off a tooth on the timing chain. That would also explain my not being able to get the cam/crank offset correct.

Any recommendations for a scanner that will read what I need? Are the Bluetooth readers and apps any good?

OK ,now we know more. Yes, with popping through the exhaust you have a timing issue for sure. However.... did you remove the heads or rockers? If you did your lash my not be right on some of them and that can cause some of the symptoms you describe.. Usually for the 1345 code crank sensor, distributor gear/pickup , and timing chain would be the usual suspects to kick that code out. Sometimes the crank sensor can have an internal leak of oil and set it off. That's happened to me before on my 7.4.. You can take it out and clean it with some electrical cleaner, let it dry then see if you get any change or swap it with your other sensor if you still have it.. If you haven't already I would still double check all of your wiring before swapping stuff out.. You could be very well right on the timing chain. It's easy to do sometimes..

 

[AuroraGirl]

You should reread what you wrote because that is what it implies.. You didn't define it.. and where is the whole knock thing coming from?? Since when is misfiring a knock? A broken mount is not going to bang around and KNOCK during idle a bunch of times and at a steady acceleration.. Only when you put an initial load on it does it move. Again he has codes, misfire or not. A scanner would help diagnose it in the pids and graphs .. Even a subtle movement would show before a code was set or pending.. Anyway on to the problem .. We can agree to disagree..

ok

 

[Schurkey]

I'm plagued with a misfire, and occasionally a P1345(cam crank offset code). I have pulled the distributor out multiple times, and I'm 99% sure it's in exactly like it's supposed to be. It idles fine, but I get a miss at around 2k RPM under no load, and miscellaneously under load at multiple RPM ranges.

Use a REAL scan tool to hopefully narrow-down the individual cylinders that are misfiring. Don't wait for "codes", use the tool to view cylinder-by-cylinder misfire counts.

Using the molded-in reference points on the distributor housing gets you close enough that the engine should run. From there, you need to use the scan tool to view cam offset. Some guys "cheat" by cutting-open a viewing hole in the distributor cap, then turning the distributor for the shortest spark from rotor-tip to cap terminal. I know that's done, but I don't know how accurate it gets the cam offset.

Along with the P1345 I have
P0140 - EGR
P0137 - O2 Sensor
P0154 - O2 Sensor

EGR Valve is new, I do have an exhaust leak from where I cut the exhaust out. I put a flex pipe on for now, but it's not a good seal. I am not sure if that would cause the EGR code, but I'm sure that could cause the O2 sensor codes.

Maybe causes O2 sensor codes. Maybe not.

Grab the service manual, follow the diagnostic procedure for each of those codes...AFTER you get the distributor turned where it's supposed to be; and AFTER you clear those codes (see what comes back.)

If the O2 sensors have 50K miles on them or more, consider them "suspicious" until you can PROVE that they're working right via scan tool diagnostics.

Without more codes for the misfire, what can I do to get this ironed out? I would love to have it all back to perfect.

Don't wait for "codes" for misfire, use the misfire counter in the scan tool.

Is it possible that I still messed up the distributor install? I watched probably 10 different videos, and read more write ups than I can count. They all had the same info, and I followed that to a T. Rotor pointed towards the "8" arrow after being fully installed with #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke.

Again, all of that is the baseline. From there, you use the scan tool to measure the degrees of offset corrected by turning the distributor housing.

Forgot to add, I have a code reader, but not with the ability to read cam/crank offset.

That's gotta change.

When I was spending my own money, I bought a 12-year-old Snap-On Solus Pro with 8.2 software good to 2007, various adapters, keys, rechargeable battery and charger, instruction manuals on DVD, and a big suitcase to carry it all in. About $350 shipped to my door. Similar deals are fairly common on eBay. I would rather have a "good used" "Professional-grade" scan tool, than a brand-new Chinese scan tool. There are other options--software loaded onto a laptop with a cable to connect to the vehicle, for example. I can't help you with that stuff; I've never used it.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Use a REAL scan tool to hopefully narrow-down the individual cylinders that are misfiring. Don't wait for "codes", use the tool to view cylinder-by-cylinder misfire counts.

Using the molded-in reference points on the distributor housing gets you close enough that the engine should run. From there, you need to use the scan tool to view cam offset. Some guys "cheat" by cutting-open a viewing hole in the distributor cap, then turning the distributor for the shortest spark from rotor-tip to cap terminal. I know that's done, but I don't know how accurate it gets the cam offset.


Maybe causes O2 sensor codes. Maybe not.

Grab the service manual, follow the diagnostic procedure for each of those codes...AFTER you get the distributor turned where it's supposed to be; and AFTER you clear those codes (see what comes back.)

If the O2 sensors have 50K miles on them or more, consider them "suspicious" until you can PROVE that they're working right via scan tool diagnostics.


Don't wait for "codes" for misfire, use the misfire counter in the scan tool.


Again, all of that is the baseline. From there, you use the scan tool to measure the degrees of offset corrected by turning the distributor housing.


That's gotta change.

When I was spending my own money, I bought a 12-year-old Snap-On Solus Pro with 8.2 software good to 2007, various adapters, keys, rechargeable battery and charger, instruction manuals on DVD, and a big suitcase to carry it all in. About $350 shipped to my door. Similar deals are fairly common on eBay. I would rather have a "good used" "Professional-grade" scan tool, than a brand-new Chinese scan tool. There are other options--software loaded onto a laptop with a cable to connect to the vehicle, for example. I can't help you with that stuff; I've never used it.

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ive definitely had my tech 2 clone for 4 years now and also been pleasantly surprised with it(expected worse) but you are right if you CAN find a good used oen, its a good choice. but thankfully my clone unit has worked well and i mostly own GM stuff. yay. I also have an Autel mk808. its ok.

 

[1952Chevy]

Got a bluetooth reader and the Torque app. No misfire counts on any cylinders.

Same DTCs as before. Finally able to read the CMP Offset, -30 degrees.

Working on the truck today I determined my TDC mark is officially TDC. Bought a TDC tool, that wasn't long enough to touch the top of the cylinder, so I ended up using just a long bolt.

Also had a coolant and power steering leak. Coolant leak is from the rad, looks like someone put some epoxy on it before and that didn't keep it sealed. Wasn't loosing it quickly, but was loosing enough to notice it on the ground. Radiator is draining right now.

I believe I found the power steering leak. There was a loose connection at the pump. I tightened that up, so we'll see if that resolves the issue.

While I have the radiator out, I'm going to pull the water pump, and the timing cover, replace the timing gears and chain. I regret not doing that the first go round. Live and learn I guess. I'm hoping that my chain is off a tooth. I did remove the timing chain and cam gear before engine install, but it seemed fine. I didn't however verify it was properly installed before putting the timing cover back on. Then after watching videos, I realize how loose the chain actually was.

 

[1952Chevy]

Got the timing cover off today. Broke part of the inner tab that surrounds the oil pan gasket(will post a picture tomorrow). The piece that broke off fell into the oil pan. I was able to get it out with a screwdriver and some axle grease thankfully.

I was off slightly with the timing chain. So new timing chain and gears are installed. Ran it through a few revolutions by hand and the marks keep lining back up when they should so I think I'm good to go there. Tomorrow I will be getting it all back together re-stabbing the distributor and hopefully that fixes my CMP offset code. Once that code is gone I will get the exhaust welded back in and that should clear the rest of the codes(I hope).

 

[Schurkey]

When it's me, I use a degree wheel and dial indicator/base to "degree" the cam.

NO chance of getting the timing chain/sprockets misaligned that way.

"Dot-to-dot" is still a gamble given the sometimes low-quality of automotive parts. There's a half-dozen machining operations that have to be correct for "dot-to-dot" to actually work. Good luck.

 

[1952Chevy]

Finally finished up for the day. Timing cover was a pain to install with the oil pan installed. I ended up cutting the seal for the oil pan gasket, as well as trimming the timing cover lip(where it would be inside the oil pan. I gooped a bunch of high temp gasket maker in there with it. I got in in, hopefully it's sealed well, I guess time will tell.

Ended up buying a new distributor, the gears on the old one were pretty worn. Not sure that I needed it but I was going to be messing with it anyway, figured I don't want to have to do this again. Took me about 800 tries to get the distributor in properly, but eventually I got it. My CMP Offset reads -.8 never exceeds -2.

New radiator is installed and no leaks there. Power steering pump wasn't actively leaking after tightening the line back up. However when I first started the truck the oil cooler line shot out from the block and dumped all my oil on the ground. Took me about 30 seconds to realize it. Got that put back in, new oil and she didn't sound too happy for about 30 seconds after that, but all good now.

I still have the EGR and O2 codes. I'll get the exhaust piece welded back in and see if that fixes the issue. If not I will trouble shoot further.

 

[1952Chevy]

Also I had the torque app open while driving. This time I was getting some misfire counts(I wasn't before even when there was a noticeable misfire). But they were like 2-6 occasionally on random cylinders, nothing that I was even able to notice behind the wheel. Is that of any concern? Never looked at misfire counts before.

 

[1952Chevy]

I haven't gotten the exhaust welded back in yet to check on the codes. However I realized the O2 code is Bank 2 Sensor 1. So I bought a new sensor, but getting the old one out will not be a lot of fun.