Brake Shake....

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Road Trip

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A lot of the time you can get away without bedding pads, but you've found an exception. My bedding process isn't extreme, but I do it with every brake job.

ETA, your comment reminded me of something I thought I saw in one of the
General's FSMs? I did a quick scan of the .pdf file using 'break-in' and 'bedding' and nada.

I then used the word 'burnishing' and Voila! I found the paragraph I remembered reading:

You must be registered for see images attach


FWIW I also 'bed in' or burnish new friction surfaces whenever I do a brake job.

Some may never take the extra step & also never experience an issue when working with
something as robust as a GMT400 brake system...but at the same time I developed the habit
when it helped me while I was working with older brake systems that needed very little excuse in order to
pulsate/misbehave/draw undue attention to themselves. (Think older entry-level european cars
where 'Girling' parts were involved. ;0)

On a semi-related note, I also always break in a new clutch disc with a honeymoon
period, allowing the new surfaces (often from different vendors) to acclimate/marry
before turning the engine bay volume knob up to 11. I'm a big fan of non-pulsating
brakes and shudder-free clutches. :0)

I've worked for three different brake manufacturers including the current one over the last 50 years and have seen this countless times. What you are experiencing is "material transfer". Many brakes today are designed for the pad material to transfer a layer of material to the rotor face. That's part of the "bedding" process frequently discussed. Different materials require different bedding processes from no bedding at all to somewhat complicated processes that include several stops and cool downs from different speeds and pedal pressures.

Welcome to the GMT400 forum! We've got forum members from all walks of life
sharing their perspectives on keeping these old workhorses on the road, and it
sounds like you will fit right in. Good comments, & thanks for sharing your expertise!
 
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GrimsterGMC

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I've worked for three different brake manufacturers including the current one over the last 50 years and have seen this countless times. What you are experiencing is "material transfer". Many brakes today are designed for the pad material to transfer a layer of material to the rotor face. That's part of the "bedding" process frequently discussed. Different materials require different bedding processes from no bedding at all to somewhat complicated processes that include several stops and cool downs from different speeds and pedal pressures. That being said, the material transfer process goes on throughout the life of the pad. Material is constantly being added to the face of the rotor then worn off during stops. Cheaper materials often do not have compounds in them that allow for consistent transfer. When brakes get hot or if the rotor is not perfectly true, these materials tend to build up in certain spots on the rotor face. This causes a "bump" of material to form on the rotor. When that bump comes around and hits the pad face during a stop, it causes a shudder. This can be temporarily fixed by doing a couple of really hard stops from high speed. This "knocks off" the bump of material on the rotor face and your brakes work fine for a while. But as you found, the material starts again to build up and the shudder comes back. So....how do you fix this. First...DO NOT BUY CHEAP BRAKE PADS!! There's a very good reason some pads cost more than others. I'm always amazed at how much people are willing to pay for a new car only to cheap out when maintaining it. BUY GOOD STUFF! Secondly, make sure the rotor face is as smooth as possible. Lots of shops will turn a rotor as quickly as possible without attention to rotor surface. If you can't find a shop that will do it right, buy new rotors. Again....don't buy cheap rotors. Not all rotors are machined the same way. They may look the same, but believe me, they're not. Good luck with your truck. I just bought my 95 SLT a couple of days ago and decided to join this forum. Looking forward to learning from all of you.
Welcome to the forum, this is a perfect explanation of what a lot of us experience with our trucks.
 

Diver88

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I've worked for three different brake manufacturers including the current one over the last 50 years and have seen this countless times. What you are experiencing is "material transfer". Many brakes today are designed for the pad material to transfer a layer of material to the rotor face. That's part of the "bedding" process frequently discussed. Different materials require different bedding processes from no bedding at all to somewhat complicated processes that include several stops and cool downs from different speeds and pedal pressures. That being said, the material transfer process goes on throughout the life of the pad. Material is constantly being added to the face of the rotor then worn off during stops. Cheaper materials often do not have compounds in them that allow for consistent transfer. When brakes get hot or if the rotor is not perfectly true, these materials tend to build up in certain spots on the rotor face. This causes a "bump" of material to form on the rotor. When that bump comes around and hits the pad face during a stop, it causes a shudder. This can be temporarily fixed by doing a couple of really hard stops from high speed. This "knocks off" the bump of material on the rotor face and your brakes work fine for a while. But as you found, the material starts again to build up and the shudder comes back. So....how do you fix this. First...DO NOT BUY CHEAP BRAKE PADS!! There's a very good reason some pads cost more than others. I'm always amazed at how much people are willing to pay for a new car only to cheap out when maintaining it. BUY GOOD STUFF! Secondly, make sure the rotor face is as smooth as possible. Lots of shops will turn a rotor as quickly as possible without attention to rotor surface. If you can't find a shop that will do it right, buy new rotors. Again....don't buy cheap rotors. Not all rotors are machined the same way. They may look the same, but believe me, they're not. Good luck with your truck. I just bought my 95 SLT a couple of days ago and decided to join this forum. Looking forward to learning from all of you.
This is what I have picked up from many of the answers to my posted questions, overall. One poster recommends a Rayestos product, do you have a suggested brake pad that can fill the bill for a good set f pads to replace with? Thank You, you have helped solidify (with others) my suspected cause with a logical explanation. Thanks again every body! We'll see when we start getting all the known failed parts replaced and proceed a step at a time. I have other questions to post on my quest to get this truck to driving more like it did when newer...
 

Road Trip

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Hi, just joined because I'm looking for answers.. I have a 1996 C-1500 regular cab, long bed, bought it brand new and for the first 90K miles it had fantastic overall braking,
no complaints or issues. I had the rotors turned and pads installed by a shop, 3K and the front end is bouncing up and down coming to a stop. When it needed new pads I asked the shop
to replace the rotors and pads, a few thousand miles and the same situation occurred. I have 227K miles on her and not counting the original brakes the rotors and pads have been replaced
6 times and I still have the same problem. I'm getting even pad wear side to side and it stops well but the front end bounces up and down very noticeably still today. It was suggested I didn't "bed"
the pads in, which I have never done on any vehicle including this one and I have never had this problem on any other vehicle I have driven or owned. So, I tried overheating the brakes stopping
from a high speed several times in a row and, no more bouncing coming to a stop..... until I drove around another hour and the bouncing came back. My current mechanic say none of this makes sense
and he say's the "bedding" of new pads is nonsense. I've taken care of this vehicle meticulously although age is catching up and a few things need to be done
but I'd really like to solve this brake problem, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
(TLDR alert)

Greetings Diver88,

That's a good, detailed problem description. In the past I've had a couple of vehicles exhibit very
similar behavior, and in one case I wasn't sure if I'd ever solve the mystery. It seemed that the
vehicle in question had become almost impossibly fussy about the roundness of the tires and the
rotors had to be absolutely free of measurable warp? I found myself achieving smooth driving, but
after a few weeks the issue would reappear, and then I'd rotate the tires & get them rebalanced,
get the rotors turned, try a different vendor's set of brake pads, etc. And then it would be smooth
again, and I'd think, d@mn, I finally found the right combo...and then a few weeks later the vibrations
would start to become noticeable again. Fudge! :0)

It wasn't until A) I drove a mechanical twin that had zero vibration issues (and had been that way for
some time with no corrective maintenance?) and realized that the design actually could drive smoothly,
long term, and B) I changed my troubleshooting perspective 180° that I finally solved the recurring
vibration issues.

So I offer the following from the perspective of living through a similar scenario first hand, and it's one
of those food for thought replies, where more questions may be generated than answered...

**** What is your troubleshooting perspective? ****

When troubleshooting a brake pulsation or tire/wheel vibration, the focus is always making sure that
the rotors aren't warped and the tires are round instead of D-shaped from a long (skidding) panic stop.

While performing the diagnosis & repair this way, the perspective is that the Vehicle is the Victim,
and the Parts are the Perpetrators. And 99% of the time this is correct, to the point where this
becomes the *only* troubleshooting perspective by mainstream mechanics who are constantly
improving their career success by biasing their approach on what's the highest probability solutions.
It is simply the way. A high volume of 99% success pays more money than chasing the elusive
solution for the 1-percenter Bad Actors. And by it's behavior, your '96 C1500 has become a Bad Actor.

So to make sure that we aren't overlooking anything, I propose that for troubleshooting purposes
we change our perspective to "The Vehicle is the Perpetrator, and the Parts are the Victims." And
then go on to prove/disprove this until such time as we either uncover the Root Problem, or we are
forced to give up on this approach & go back to the search for the magic combo: a set of NOS GM
rotors, Michelin tires on absolutely straight factory wheels, never again push the brakes on the track until
they stink, + never drive over a deep pothole again on the open road, etc. :0)

So we are going to look for excess play in the front end. And that play could be hiding in plain sight,
but was never looked at because we were looking for a pulsating brake issue from a ever so slightly
warped rotor, while not looking at the front wheel bearings where the preload is out of adjustment
and are allowing the wheel to wobble while rotating, instead of rotating like a lathe?

In order to avoid throwing a ton of parts at the front end, only to end up with an empty wallet and
the brakes are still vibrating, we should attempt to tighten the problem definition as much as possible.

For example, the fact that you have already eliminated the rear brakes from the list of possible failures (by following
Schurkey's recommendation to try stopping the vehicle via the parking brakes only & noting zero vibration)
is excellent. This eliminated a *lot* of real estate from the troubleshooting neighborhood.

In order to support the next level of troubleshooting, we have to figure out what the ratio is between
the total weight of the parts that will inevitably develop minor deviations from perfection during normal use
versus the weight of the rest of the vehicle. (Which we will consider in our thought experiment as a pure
vibration damper.)

Here's a quick example. Pretty much anyone reading this knows that a 1/2 ounce imbalance on 1 tire
will be noticeable to the owner of the car as a minor change from when it was brand new...but at the same time
a passenger may not notice it. But a 2 ounce imbalance on 1 tire will be noticeable by everyone in the car.
Especially if that car is a 1620-lb '90 Geo Metro. But barely noticeable if that same 2 oz imbalance is on a '63 Lincoln
Continental convertible...or a '99 C2500 HD loaded right to the legal limit.

Here's a better example. Out of your entire fleet, one particular stickshift-equipped truck under your care is suffering
from a shuddering clutch when the driver is starting out from a dead stop. Gotta be a worn clutch disc. Or maybe hot
spots on the flywheel face?

So the clutch is replaced, and the flywheel is resurfaced by a trusted shop that has a good track record for quality work.
And right after the repair, the truck drives fine. But after accumulating a couple thousand miles and a few weeks have
passed, the irritating shuddering is just starting to return, and is getting worse by the week. Assuming the new parts
didn't meet factory specs (which isn't out of the question these days) the clutch is replaced a 2nd time, this time with
the best parts available. These last a little longer than the 1st set...but eventually the shuddering returns? WTF, over?

And finally, the shuddery truck ends up getting sent to an old salty dog mechanic who listens carefully to the history
of the problem, drives the vehicle, returns, opens the hood, chocks the wheels, sets the parking brake, puts the
transmission in reverse, and attempts to back up the truck. When he does this, to the surprise of the onlookers the
driver's side of the engine leaps up almost 2" and drops back down when he pushes the clutch back in.

The solution? The clutch was the victim of a broken motor mount, so instead of only being able to move back & forth
a fraction of an inch before being held in place, the minor torque variations as the clutch was slipping in order to get
the truck moving enjoyed an excessive degree of freedom, so that the combined weight of the entire engine/tranmission
assembly was allowed to break into oscillation. And the ratio of the weight of this vibrating powerplant versus the
weight of the rest of the vehicle made it very easy for the occupants to realize that there was a problem down under
the floorboards. :0)

And on the 3rd repair attempt, the clutch was left alone, and instead the motor & transmission mounts were replaced.
And now the truck drove just like all the others in the fleet. (!)

****

Apologies for the long-winded analogy, but I wanted to illustrate the thought process where we are trying to visualize
A) the forces at play when the brakes are pulsating/vibrating, and B) what's the ratio of the weight of the vibrating
parts vs the weight of the remainder of the subsystem/vehicle?

1) Let's say for the sake of argument that there is excessive wear somewhere in the front suspension of your truck.
But where? First, we need to think about how the weight of the stationary vehicle is transferred from the frame to
the lower control arm. Of course with just the arm the spring is on the top, and the bottom is sitting on the pavement.

That's nonsensical. So in order to allow the vehicle to roll, we add a spindle, (plus an upper control arm to keep
everything straight) wheel bearings on a hub assembly, mount this to the spindle, and finally mount a rubber
tire/steel wheel assy onto the hub. If now you think about how the weight of the truck is transferred from the
frame to the contact patch of the tire, eventually you can visualize how all these parts interact with each other
while sitting there statically.

At this point we have a vehicle that can roll, but only in 1 direction. So to all this we add the ability for the spindle
to pivot left and right under the continuous control of the steering linkage. (Upper & lower ball joints)

Voila! Now a human can sit behind the wheel and exert positive control over this assembly we've just built in our mind.
Hopefully what you built up in your mind's eye ended up looking something like this:

You must be registered for see images attach


Now if we roll this truck down a smooth rode, the forces between frame and tire contact patch remain essentially
the same. No problems noted by the driver. Now, the classic scenario from high school Driver's Ed class happens,
where a ball suddenly comes rolling out to the street from between a couple of parked cars. What does the driver do?
He jams on the brakes. (That is, if we remembered to add them to the hub assembly earlier on. :0)

OK, right now I finally have us mentally focused where we need to be. When the calipers clamp the pads firmly
onto the rotors in this emergency stopping scenario, what *new* forces are added to this front suspension assembly?
I'm assuming that the clamped caliper wants to rotate with the spinning rotor, but this isn't allowed to happen thanks to
the spindle bracketry that the caliper is securely bolted to. So these new forces developed by the clamped rotor are
actually transferred to the spindle suspended between the upper & lower control arms?

And if the control arms were underdesigned, then no doubt that they would twist/deform under the braking
stresses. But they don't, thanks to the General's engineers that are paid to think about this stuff during
the design phase. BUT, even though the arms don't deform, they do transfer these forces to where? Is
it through the upper and lower ball joints, and eventually through the upper & lower control arm bushings
interconnecting the front suspension to the frame? The twisting forces created when we step on the brake
pedal and force those calipers to clamp the brake pads to the spinning rotor have to have an equal and
opposite reaction somewhere, somehow.

And if ALL the mechanical bits involved are unworn and working as the design engineers intended, then these
forces will be transferred silently to the truck's frame, whether the forces are 100% smooth (like Direct Current)
or if there is a small 1% pulsation included from real-world tolerance stackup in the braking subsystem. (Sparky
types would think of this as a 99% DC voltage with a 1% AC ripple superimposed on top of it. :0)

Of course, if the brake rotor is warped like an old 45 rpm record left out in the direct sun, then inevitably the
whole setup can't help but pulsate during a stop. But if you think about it, slightly worn suspension component(s)
can make a specific vehicle more 'finicky' about the brake components...but only when we ask the associated front
suspension to do -2- things at once.

And especially when you run into the scenario where perfect brake parts drive fine for awhile, but after the inevitable
minor variations develop, instead of absorbing the minor pulsations the worn suspension actually amplifies them.

****

An important credo of the troubleshooter is to first figure out how to break something at will, and also figure
out all the ways that the same system can be used without breaking, figure out what the differences between
these scenarios are, and then focus tightly on that area. Congratulations, you have already figured out the
hard stuff...when it works, and then how to break it at will. (!) The rear brakes have been eliminated, no
complaints about the steering while braking, the brake parts aren't showing any abnormal wear, etc.

Pulling this all together, everything seems to be alright when just the weight of the truck is being transferred
from the frame to the tire's contact patch with the ground. But once we add the twisting forces created
by the clamped caliper wanting to rotate with the spinning rotor, you experience vibration...unless the
brake parts are in perfect condition.

Q: Is it a bad design that will never work smoothly in the real world? A: I don't think so, for a lot of folks
with nearly identical trucks enjoy tens of thousands of brake applications with velvety smooth stopping inbetween
the replacement of wear items. My '99 C2500 has 220K miles on it, and the braking is velvety smooth, and
that's with front rotors and calipers of unknown vintage. They have the normal signs of real-world usage,
but the rest of the truck just doesn't seem to require perfection in order to deliver smooth & consistent braking.

****

Apologies for the length. But if the truck resisted repair from 90K to 227K miles despite several attempts,
then it's going to take more than a bumper sticker's worth of communication to sort this out. The good
news is that you are driving a '96 C1500 instead of an old Lotus Europa, so the chances that you are
eventually going to end up with a set of smooth, confidence-inspiring brakes are much better than average.

Thanks for wading through all this. No doubt the above generated more questions than answers, but
with the combined real-world experience x the analytic horsepower in this forum I'm confident that this
Bad Actor will get sorted out.

Best of luck! Cheers --
 

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Road Trip

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- Here's an example of a front suspension variable that can easily checked/eliminated from the list -

When troubleshooting pulsating brakes, we will get out the dial indicator and look to see if the
rotor is still within specification. And it's just a handful of thousandths allowed. But what if
the underlying wheel bearings aren't adjusted to run within specs? Will a set of wheel bearings
mis-adjusted and running too loose exacerbate the reaction caused by applying brake pads to
a slightly less than perfect brake rotor?

'96 C/K Service Manual, Vol. 1, p. 291 in the .pdf
You must be registered for see images attach


Am I predicting that this is the root cause? It's possible, but then again it could be one of
several competing possibilities. The point is, everything in the front suspension will need to be
inspected/verified to this level of detail *before* we start throwing parts in the general direction
of our troubleshooting suspicions. :)

If anyone reading this has fixed a brake issue by eliminating one or more worn front suspension parts,
then please share your experience.

Just a little more food for thought...
 

df2x4

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One poster recommends a Rayestos product, do you have a suggested brake pad that can fill the bill for a good set f pads to replace with?

I (and a few others) are running Raybestos EHT369H. They're doing great on both of my '97s, JB5 and JB6 brake systems specifically. Very aggressive friction compound (HH DOT rating), more so than any other offerings I've been able to find. More info here, the good stuff starts on page 5:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/page-5
 

Road Trip

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GMT400 Vibration Troubleshooting A-Z

1. Multiple sets of pads, multiple sets of rotors, same problem. I was thinking that It's probably not the front brakes, until you mentioned that using the brakes "hard" fixed the problem temporarily. Are you one of those drivers that brakes gently for a block-and-a-half before each stop sign? That's poor practice.

2. Might be the rear brakes. Test with park brake as described previously. Pray that the park brake cables aren't seized.

3. Bounces up and down? How old are the shock absorbers?

4. How old are the tie rod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, idler arm, Pitman arm...is braking force moving the worn-out suspension/steering parts in a way that affects wheel alignment?

Schurkey's reply is what prompted me to write #35 last night. I'd like to add a couple of short comments that
didn't make it into last night's tome.

Re: 1. I found the 'hard braking fixed problem temporarily' interesting. Getting disc brakes that hot =
a *lot* of radiant heat is being thrown from the rotor. (Where we turn the truck's kinetic energy into
thermal energy.) Wheel bearing grease is specially formulated to withstand temps up to 475° (F) without
breaking down for this very reason. (Hi Temp wheel bearing greases) Given this, which part(s) would tighten
up with this amount of localized heat, removing excess play, and temporarily solving the vibration issue?

Re: 4. I completely agree with this thought process. Anyone reading this who's pushed a shopping cart
around (where the front wheels have negative caster & experienced all kinds of wobbly vibration) has a
glimpse of how the twisting forces associated with clamping brake pads onto a spinning rotor might
take a stable suspension system (with excess play somewhere) and dynamically reduce the caster angle,
creating momentary bad geometry that's more susceptible to vibration inputs?

****

To prepare yourself for the next level of vibration analysis, I strongly recommend that you
read the chapter on Vibration Diagnosis and Correction in the Factory Service Manual.
More specifically, this section seemed to get stronger over the years, so by the '99 C/K
Service Manual it is a great read.

And here's where you can obtain a free download of the '99 Service Manuals:
(LINK, tip of the hat to @PM18S4)

Note: You could just download the file with Vol 1, open it up, go to page 94, and check it out.
Here's the start of that section:

You must be registered for see images attach


Anyway, between all of the above the answer is hidden in there somewhere. :0)

Happy Hunting! And please be sure to let us know what you discover -- this way
we can all learn from your experience.
 

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someotherguy

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I'm glad this topic is being so thoroughly dissected; my '06 SS has brake shake (bounce, really) that is annoying as hell. I got rid of it a while back when I replaced a bunch of parts - I had some lumpy tires as well as old brakes so I wasn't sure what the cause was back then, but now I suspect it's probably the brakes.

Using just the parking brake to slow the truck doesn't produce any bounce. If I brake normally at surface street speeds, it has a bounce. If I brake hard, almost no bounce at all.

I definitely do not ride the brakes, but I think my truck is slightly dragging the fronts due to a failing master cylinder/booster; I replaced these on my wife's SS already because it had leaked a bunch of fluid into the booster and killed it. Her truck would drag the brakes until the fronts locked. My truck's fluid level goes down a little more than I think it should from regular pad wear so I think it's failing too just not as quickly.

I've got Raybestos "police service" rotors on it and Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads. I didn't skimp on the parts, to be sure. No adjustment on the wheel bearings since they're GMT800 unit style (and replaced with new GM a while back.)

Looks like one of my next tools will be a dial indicator for checking rotor runout.

Richard
 

Diver88

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(TLDR alert)

Greetings Diver88,

That's a good, detailed problem description. In the past I've had a couple of vehicles exhibit very
similar behavior, and in one case I wasn't sure if I'd ever solve the mystery. It seemed that the
vehicle in question had become almost impossibly fussy about the roundness of the tires and the
rotors had to be absolutely free of measurable warp? I found myself achieving smooth driving, but
after a few weeks the issue would reappear, and then I'd rotate the tires & get them rebalanced,
get the rotors turned, try a different vendor's set of brakes, etc. And then it would be smooth
again, and I'd think, d@mn, I finally found the right combo...and then a few weeks later the vibrations
would start to become noticeable again. Fudge! :0)

It wasn't until A) I drove a mechanical twin that had zero vibration issues (and had been that way for
some time with no corrective maintenance?) and realized that the design actually could drive smoothly,
long term, and B) I changed my troubleshooting perspective 180° that I finally solved the recurring
vibration issues.

So I offer the following from the perspective of living through a similar scenario first hand, and it's one
of those food for thought replies, where more questions may be generated than answered...

**** What is your troubleshooting perspective? ****

When troubleshooting a brake pulsation or tire/wheel vibration, the focus is always making sure that
the rotors aren't warped and the tires are round instead of D-shaped from a long (skidding) panic stop.

While performing the diagnosis & repair this way, the perspective is that the Vehicle is the Victim,
and the Parts are the Perpetrators. And 99% of the time this is correct, to the point where this
becomes the *only* troubleshooting perspective by mainstream mechanics who are constantly
improving their career success by biasing their approach on what's the highest probability solutions.
It is simply the way. A high volume of 99% success pays more money than chasing the elusive
solution for the 1-percenter Bad Actors. And by it's behavior, your '96 C1500 has become a Bad Actor.

So to make sure that we aren't overlooking anything, I propose that for troubleshooting purposes
we change our perspective to "The Vehicle is the Perpetrator, and the Parts are the Victims." And
then go on to prove/disprove this until such time as we either uncover the Root Problem, or we are
forced to give up on this approach & go back to the search for the magic combo: a set of NOS GM
rotors, Michelin tires on absolutely straight factory wheels, never again push the brakes on the track until
they stink, + never drive over a deep pothole again on the open road, etc. :0)

So we are going to look for excess play in the front end. And that play could be hiding in plain sight,
but was never looked at because we were looking for a pulsating brake issue from a ever so slightly
warped rotor, while not looking at the front wheel bearings where the preload is out of adjustment
and are allowing the wheel to wobble while rotating, instead of rotating like a lathe?

In order to avoid throwing a ton of parts at the front end, only to end up with an empty wallet and
the brakes are still vibrating, we should attempt to tighten the problem definition as much as possible.

For example, the fact that you have already eliminated the rear brakes from the list of possible failures (by following
Schurkey's recommendation to try stopping the vehicle via the parking brakes only & noting zero vibration)
is excellent. This eliminated a *lot* of real estate from the troubleshooting neighborhood.

In order to support the next level of troubleshooting, we have to figure out what the ratio is between
the total weight of the parts that will inevitably develop minor deviations from perfection during normal use
versus the weight of the rest of the vehicle. (Which we will consider in our thought experiment as a pure
vibration damper.)

Here's a quick example. Pretty much anyone reading this knows that a 1/2 ounce imbalance on 1 tire
will be noticeable to the owner of the car as a minor change from when it was brand new...but at the same time
a passenger may not notice it. But a 2 ounce imbalance on 1 tire will be noticeable by everyone in the car.
Especially if that car is a 1620-lb '90 Geo Metro. But barely noticeable if that same 2 oz imbalance is on a '63 Lincoln
Continental convertible...or a '99 C2500 HD loaded right to the legal limit.

Here's a better example. Out of your entire fleet, one particular stickshift-equipped truck under your care is suffering
from a shuddering clutch when the driver is starting out from a dead stop. Gotta be a worn clutch disc. Or maybe hot
spots on the flywheel face?

So the clutch is replaced, and the flywheel is resurfaced by a trusted shop that has a good track record for quality work.
And right after the repair, the truck drives fine. But after accumulating a couple thousand miles and a few weeks have
passed, the irritating shuddering is just starting to return, and is getting worse by the week. Assuming the new parts
didn't meet factory specs (which isn't out of the question these days) the clutch is replaced a 2nd time, this time with
the best parts available. These last a little longer than the 1st set...but eventually the shuddering returns? WTF, over?

And finally, the shuddery truck ends up getting sent to an old salty dog mechanic who listens carefully to the history
of the problem, drives the vehicle, returns, opens the hood, chocks the wheels, sets the parking brake, puts the
transmission in reverse, and attempts to back up the truck. When he does this, to the surprise of the onlookers the
driver's side of the engine leaps up almost 2" and drops back down when he pushes the clutch back in.

The solution? The clutch was the victim of a broken motor mount, so instead of only being able to move back & forth
a fraction of an inch before being held in place, the minor torque variations as the clutch was slipping in order to get
the truck moving enjoyed an excessive degree of freedom, so that the combined weight of the entire engine/tranmission
assembly was allowed to break into oscillation. And the ratio of the weight of this vibrating powerplant versus the
weight of the rest of the vehicle made it very easy for the occupants to realize that there was a problem down under
the floorboards. :0)

And on the 3rd repair attempt, the clutch was left alone, and instead the motor & transmission mounts were replaced.
And now the truck drove just like all the others in the fleet. (!)

****

Apologies for the long-winded analogy, but I wanted to illustrate the thought process where we are trying to visualize
A) the forces at play when the brakes are pulsating/vibrating, and B) what's the ratio of the weight of the vibrating
parts vs the weight of the remainder of the subsystem/vehicle?

1) Let's say for the sake of argument that there is excessive wear somewhere in the front suspension of your truck.
But where? First, we need to think about how the weight of the stationary vehicle is transferred from the frame to
the lower control arm. Of course with just the arm the spring is on the top, and the bottom is sitting on the pavement.

That's nonsensical. So in order to allow the vehicle to roll, we add a spindle, (plus an upper control arm to keep
everything straight) wheel bearings on a hub assembly, mount this to the spindle, and finally mount a rubber
tire/steel wheel assy onto the hub. If now you think about how the weight of the truck is transferred from the
frame to the contact patch of the tire, eventually you can visualize how all these parts interact with each other
while sitting there statically.

At this point we have a vehicle that can roll, but only in 1 direction. So to all this we add the ability for the spindle
to pivot left and right under the continuous control of the steering linkage. (Upper & lower ball joints)

Voila! Now a human can sit behind the wheel and exert positive control over this assembly we've just built in our mind.
Hopefully what you built up in your mind's eye ended up looking something like this:

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Now if we roll this truck down a smooth rode, the forces between frame and tire contact patch remain essentially
the same. No problems noted by the driver. Now, the classic scenario from high school Driver's Ed class happens,
where a ball suddenly comes rolling out to the street from between a couple of parked cars. What does the driver do?
He jams on the brakes. (That is, if we remembered to add them to the hub assembly earlier on. :0)

OK, right now I finally have us mentally focused where we need to be. When the calipers clamp the pads firmly
onto the rotors in this emergency stopping scenario, what *new* forces are added to this front suspension assembly?
I'm assuming that the clamped caliper wants to rotate with the spinning rotor, but this isn't allowed to happen thanks to
the spindle bracketry that the caliper is securely bolted to. So these new forces developed by the clamped rotor are
actually transferred to the spindle suspended between the upper & lower control arms?

And if the control arms were underdesigned, then no doubt that they would twist/deform under the braking
stresses. But they don't, thanks to the General's engineers that are paid to think about this stuff during
the design phase. BUT, even though the arms don't deform, they do transfer these forces to where? Is
it through the upper and lower ball joints, and eventually through the upper & lower control arm bushings
interconnecting the front suspension to the frame? The twisting forces created when we step on the brake
pedal and force those calipers to clamp the brake pads to the spinning rotor have to have an equal and
opposite reaction somewhere, somehow.

And if ALL the mechanical bits involved are unworn and working as the design engineers intended, then these
forces will be transferred silently to the truck's frame, whether the forces are 100% smooth (like Direct Current)
or if there is a small 1% pulsation included from real-world tolerance stackup in the braking subsystem. (Sparky
types would think of this as a 99% DC voltage with a 1% AC ripple superimposed on top of it. :0)

Of course, if the brake rotor is warped like an old 45 rpm record left out in the direct sun, then inevitably the
whole setup can't help but pulsate during a stop. But if you think about it, slightly worn suspension component(s)
can make a specific vehicle more 'finicky' about the brake components...but only when we ask the associated front
suspension to do -2- things at once.

And especially when you run into the scenario where perfect brake parts drive fine for awhile, but after the inevitable
minor variations develop, instead of absorbing the minor pulsations the worn suspension actually amplifies them.

****

An important credo of the troubleshooter is to first figure out how to break something at will, and also figure
out all the ways that the same system can be used without breaking, figure out what the differences between
these scenarios are, and then focus tightly on that area. Congratulations, you have already figured out the
hard stuff...when it works, and then how to break it at will. (!) The rear brakes have been eliminated, no
complaints about the steering while braking, the brake parts aren't showing any abnormal wear, etc.

Pulling this all together, everything seems to be alright when just the weight of the truck is being transferred
from the frame to the tire's contact patch with the ground. But once we add the twisting forces created
by the clamped caliper wanting to rotate with the spinning rotor, you experience vibration...unless the
brake parts are in perfect condition.

Q: Is it a bad design that will never work smoothly in the real world? A: I don't think so, for a lot of folks
with nearly identical trucks enjoy tens of thousands of brake applications with velvety smooth stopping inbetween
the replacement of wear items. My '99 C2500 has 220K miles on it, and the braking is velvety smooth, and
that's with front rotors and calipers of unknown vintage. They have the normal signs of real-world usage,
but the rest of the truck just doesn't seem to require perfection in order to deliver smooth & consistent braking.

****

Apologies for the length. But if the truck resisted repair from 90K to 227K miles despite several attempts,
then it's going to take more than a bumper sticker's worth of communication to sort this out. The good
news is that you are driving a '96 C1500 instead of an old Lotus Europa, so the chances that you are
eventually going to end up with a set of smooth, confidence-inspiring brakes are much better than average.

Thanks for wading through all this. No doubt the above generated more questions than answers, but
with the combined real-world experience x the analytic horsepower in this forum I'm confident that this
Bad Actor will get sorted out.

Best of luck! Cheers --
I want to thank you for taking the time to go over the "big picture". Your post made me really think hard maybe outside the box if you will, blaming the stream of replaced parts with a similar result. There are bushings and original ball joints on board.. so as you say most likely the brakes are the victim instead of the perpetrator. I've not been back to the page since I re- read your well thought out response and realized it was another piece of the puzzle that everyone else was contributing to. I've been away because of a family member passing away out of town, now I'm back to it and have discovered my passenger caliper was partially frozen? and that wheel bearing has a little more play that I believe it should have. Last shop to work on it was supposed to replace the front wheel bearings and seals and if they did they must have left that nut a little loose. Looking at the next post I see that could be a partial culprit also. Also, the master wasn't bypassing and leaking as we thought, the flare on the end of the metal line going to the master was bent and leaking and they destroyed the nut trying to make it stop. The other line between the master and the anti-lock controller looks "twisted" and partially kinked, we sort of untwisted it a tiny bit but both of those lines are sorta jacked up, one sort of twisted, the other doesn't seal completely. I've been looking for a couple of days on line for replacements but have had no luck at all. Anyone know of some place I can buy pre-bent replacement, that info would be appreciated greatly. After the new passenger caliper and a full system flush and bleed the brakes feel the same but 99% of the bouncing while coming to a stop has subsided. Thank You again, I'm still working on making it all good.
 
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