Big Three Upgrade

[618 Syndicate]

I've read this thread and I still know nothing about how electricity works.
Glad some of y'all do though.

 

[kennythewelder]

I like my connectors clean and dry with no lubricant. If there's a problem with water intrusion, dab some dielectric grease into the connector and snap it back together. I see no other reason the average truck owner needs to worry about this stuff.

We are not talking about your snap together electrical connectors here. For that, yes,I agree. Dry is the way to go. We are taking about adding big wires from the battery positive, to the alternator, and from the battery negative to the ground points. By adding grease to these points, you are preventing corrosion. That build up of that nasty green and white stuff that tends to build up on battery cables where they hook up to the battery, and possibly at the ground point.

 

[kennythewelder]

I've read this thread and I still know nothing about how electricity works.
Glad some of y'all do though.

Basically, electricity flows like water. Think of it like this for the big 3 up grade. The OE wire the runs from the battery to the alternator, is small. As a comparison, let's say the size of a drinking straw, and will flow that much water. By adding a larger wire, now you have a 2 inch pipe for the water to flow through. It doesn't flow faster, it gives you more volume. Also, when you add a bigger wire on the positive side, you have to do the same size wire on the negative side. Electricity flows in a loop. You don't want a 2 inch pipe on the positive side, and a drinking straw on the negative side. That is a restriction, and restrictions cause heat. Of course, I am using the drinking straw, and 2 inch pipe, as a way reference to wire size

 

[Erin]

Basically, electricity flows like water. Think of it like this for the big 3 up grade. The OE wire the runs from the battery to the alternator, is small. As a comparison, let's say the size of a drinking straw, and will flow that much water. By adding a larger wire, now you have a 2 inch pipe for the water to flow through. It doesn't flow faster, it gives you more volume. Also, when you add a bigger wire on the positive side, you have to do the same size wire on the negative side. Electricity flows in a loop. You don't want a 2 inch pipe on the positive side, and a drinking straw on the negative side. That is a restriction, and restrictions cause heat. Of course, I am using the drinking straw, and 2 inch pipe, as a way reference to wire size

Pipe size and water flow is something I understand. All that other stuff is foreign language to me.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Nothing like a nerd argument on a weekend. I love this place

 

[Erik the Awful]

We are not talking about your snap together electrical connectors here. For that, yes,I agree. Dry is the way to go. We are taking about adding big wires from the battery positive, to the alternator, and from the battery negative to the ground points.

I understand that, and I still prefer clean and dry. I did almost add a comment about using spray protector on the battery terminals. I've never had a problem with corrosion on grounds. www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC

 

[Weisseguy]

Kenny, did you remove the fusible link?

 

[kennythewelder]

Kenny, did you remove the fusible link?

No. The OE wire is still there, and I put a 150 amp fuse on the new bigger welding lead wire

 

[Ehall8702]

We are not talking about your snap together electrical connectors here. For that, yes,I agree. Dry is the way to go. We are taking about adding big wires from the battery positive, to the alternator, and from the battery negative to the ground points. By adding grease to these points, you are preventing corrosion. That build up of that nasty green and white stuff that tends to build up on battery cables where they hook up to the battery, and possibly at the ground point.

I grease all points where ground lugs go ( or any bare metal or lug) and use the heat shrink that has the glue/sealer built in. Probably over kill but so is 3/0 welding cable everwhere. Here in snow country, any bare stuff corrodes quickly so i do everythng i can to combat it. Side note, if you have bought ANY wire besided OFC, throw it away and buy OFC. CCA should be illegal, corrodes in half within months in harsh environments, carries significantly less amperage than OFC cable and its higher resistance causes heat build up. Most applications u wouldnt notice the heat build up, but high demand stuff (like possibly winching or big stereo) cca can get very warm to the touch.

 

[kennythewelder]

I grease all points where ground lugs go ( or any bare metal or lug) and use the heat shrink that has the glue/sealer built in. Probably over kill but so is 3/0 welding cable everwhere. Here in snow country, any bare stuff corrodes quickly so i do everythng i can to combat it. Side note, if you have bought ANY wire besided OFC, throw it away and buy OFC. CCA should be illegal, corrodes in half within months in harsh environments, carries significantly less amperage than OFC cable and its higher resistance causes heat build up. Most applications u wouldnt notice the heat build up, but high demand stuff (like possibly winching or big stereo) cca can get very warm to the touch.

When I did mine, I went down to the 4x4 shop on the same Rd as out shop, and bought the fuses, fuse holder, and some lugs. While I was there. I asked to speak to a tech. I have a 680 watt pioneer amp pushing 1 Sony 10 in a box. I also explained every thing I had done. Electric fans, ECT. Since they are a custom 4x4 shop, they do these kind of mods, so after we spoke, I was rite in line with what the tech told me. He said that they 7se a different wire of course, but the #2 welding lead is plent big enough to handle what I had and what I wanted to do. He also said that the alternator would be the week link in the system, but doing the overdrive, smaller pulley, took care of that. The alternator issue was only an issue at idle. The smaller pulley did fix that