AC making noise near evaporator core

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Hartwell

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I don’t know much on how the ac system works but i recently used my ac for the first time in a while because only my front ac works because i’ve yet to replace the rear expansion valve and now it makes a tapping noise under the dash where the evap core is every time i turn the car off or on.


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someotherguy

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Fresh air/recirculate actuator bad, common, not terrible to replace. Dash does not need to come out like manual says. I have a write up with pics linked in the FAQ post on Chevytalk in the 88-98 truck forum, I'd link but typing on phone sux. Easy to find tho

Richard
 

Hartwell

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Fresh air/recirculate actuator bad, common, not terrible to replace. Dash does not need to come out like manual says. I have a write up with pics linked in the FAQ post on Chevytalk in the 88-98 truck forum, I'd link but typing on phone sux. Easy to find tho

Richard

Do you know the title of the thread?


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someotherguy

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Do you know the title of the thread?


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Yeah, it says "FAQ" "Frequently Asked Questions" and it's pinned to the top of the forum like most FAQ's. They exist to make things easy to find and keep people from having to dig up and post links over and over.

Richard
 

grampadirt

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Does it sound something like this?Had to do mine several years ago.

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Hartwell

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Does it sound something like this?Had to do mine several years ago.

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that’s exactly what it is! About how long did it take to fix this and is it something you gotta fix immediately before it starts becoming a bigger problem?


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Hartwell

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Yeah, it says "FAQ" "Frequently Asked Questions" and it's pinned to the top of the forum like most FAQ's. They exist to make things easy to find and keep people from having to dig up and post links over and over.

Richard

Went ahead and found the link through another thread you had posted it to since I use an app for all my forums and it formats them differently than the actual websites do. Here it is for anyone following this thread with the same issue. https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/170970

Thanks for the help though


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grampadirt

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that’s exactly what it is! About how long did it take to fix this and is it something you gotta fix immediately before it starts becoming a bigger problem?


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I bought an actuator online then installed it,not too bad.Small hands are desired here.I had to unplug the connector so it wouldn't be constantly going.
 

someotherguy

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Thanks for the help though

Hmmm...

Fresh air/recirculate actuator bad, common, not terrible to replace. Dash does not need to come out like manual says. I have a write up with pics linked in the FAQ post on Chevytalk in the 88-98 truck forum, I'd link but typing on phone sux. Easy to find tho

Specific and accurate long-distance diagnosis, assurance it's a common issue and not difficult to fix, direction to a write-up that I did complete with pictures after determining it's much easier than the repair manual suggests, included it in a FAQ post I organized for everyone's benefit, and took time out of my 14+ hour shift to respond, just not enough time for me to go find the exact link since I was on my phone, not at my PC.

Thanks for the help

Fixed that for ya.

Richard
 

Ken K

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Sorry to ask stupid question, but Mr. Hartwell, how do I find out what vehicle, year, rear A/C or no rear A/C? Am i missing something or should look at Hartwell profile page?
ASE Master since 1978, I have seen a lot of A/C issue like a drinking straw stuck in fresh air blend door or ink pen fell inside defrost vent on top of dash, then caught in "Mode Door" blocking its' movement. Newer models, will attempt 3 times to move back and forth to clear blockage. This system is common now starting in 2000 or so, but not older products.
Some a vacuum actuators while others use dumb motor, feed-back actuators or newer type, the HVAC control module counts the number of current signature signals as it "learns" what is means to be open or closed and anywhere in between. Plus, they typically use a TXV at the rear A/C while using an oriface tube on the front. Years, certain models, engineering put the oriface tube right on the EVAP inlet tube and when shut off, it sounded like hissing noise in glove box as system pressures equalized. They quickly started putting the oriface tube next to the radiator almost 3.5 feet from EVAP on high side of course, but solved noise issue and still worked. R12 or R134a going from high to low pressure makes it boil off creating cold air by condensing cabin moisture, but in the evaporator, it has the room to do this, some in the line, but it takes heat to boil it off. Slow the fan speed down, rev engine a little, the evaporator can flood, but boils off inside accumulator. The refrigerant hits a plastic cone and the dissicant and turns into vapor picking up oil in the bottom of the accumulator before being sucked into the compressor. Vehicles with TXV on the front (Only) evaporator core varies the amount of refrigerant go in. These systems use a high side receiver/dyer with the dissicant is located. If leak occurs, the TXV will adjust to allow more refrigerant in, keeping it cool until the last moment when it is so low, the pressure switch turns off the system to protect the compressor.
But how do I find which vehicle you have?
 
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