97 Tahoe LS 4x4 help!

[1998_K1500_Sub]

1st pic is possibly the inside of the coolant reservoir. Dont use water. Clean out the bugs or paper or whatever that is in the bottom, and fill it to the "Full Cold" line with 50/50 mixed Dexcool (or equivalent). Its pretty common for it to be low and dirty. Dexcool evaporates...

Good advice, but I have to comment...

In addition to what @Nad_Yvalhosert suggested, take off the radiator cap (engine off, and cold) and, if it's not full of coolant, fill it to the top with new coolant. Then replace the cap.

It is NOT "pretty common for it to be low". Any time I've had a problem with low coolant, it was traceable to a leak in the system.

Coolant is not a consumable item. If it's low, suspect a problem.

IF you happen to buy "concentrate" antifreeze, the kind that you need to mix 50/50 with water, also buy distilled water (about $1/gal at Walmart) and mix the concentrated antifreeze with it, instead of tap water.

PS: When first deployed by GM in the 1990s, DEX-COOL was associated with some problems which have since been explained (link below). The issue: There was an incompatibility between DEX-COOL's anti-corrosives and certain engine gaskets, which in turn led to loss of coolant and related issues.

Antifreeze - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I've been known to remove the coolant reservoir, flush it with hot water to remove the big pieces...

I remove it and stick a high-pressure washer wand into it, cleaning the sides and bottom... everywhere possible. Drain it, flush with clean water, and re-install.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

fan wobbles when running and makes a screeching noise

Sounds to me like that water pump needs to be checked. With engine off, remove the serpentine belt (or at least, take the tension off the belt), grab the fan and try to shake it, so as to rock the shaft coming out of the water pump side-to-side. The fan should not shake. The shaft should not rock, it should rigid.

The screeching noise, and wobbling fan, make me think the pump needs replacement... and soon, before it leaks so badly that it pukes coolant and trashes your engine.

Your engine oil's "color" and "clarity" doesn't look bad on the dipstick. But it looks "high", like you didn't wipe the stick when checking the oil.

Umm... you do know that, if the engine's been running, you need to turn the engine off, remove the dipstick, wipe the dipstick with a rag, put it back in all the way and then pull it out again to check the oil level, yes? I know that this is not common knowledge, I'm not trying to be a jerk

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

i plan on building it up add some hp it's completely stock and there's a couple issues I need help with first.

I admire your enthusiasm. First things first though, it seems like you've got more than a few problems that need attention before your ride is even reliable and roadworthy. But don't be disheartened, be persistent!

 

[Rebel511]

Good advice, but I have to comment...

In addition to what @Nad_Yvalhosert suggested, take off the radiator cap (engine off, and cold) and, if it's not full of coolant, fill it to the top with new coolant. Then replace the cap.

It is NOT "pretty common for it to be low". Any time I've had a problem with low coolant, it was traceable to a leak in the system.

Coolant is not a consumable item. If it's low, suspect a problem.

IF you happen to buy "concentrate" antifreeze, the kind that you need to mix 50/50 with water, also buy distilled water (about $1/gal at Walmart) and mix the concentrated antifreeze with it, instead of tap water.

PS: When first deployed by GM in the 1990s, DEX-COOL was associated with some problems which have since been explained (link below). "Evaporation" wasn't the issue; there was an incompatibility between DEX-COOL's anti-corrosives and certain engine gaskets, which in turn led to loss of coolant and related issues.

Antifreeze - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I opened my radiator cap it was filled to the tip top the color is brownish kinda rusty is that good or bad?

 

[Rebel511]

Sounds to me like that water pump needs to be checked. With engine off, remove the serpentine belt (or at least, take the tension off the belt), grab the fan and try to shake it, so as to rock the shaft coming out of the water pump side-to-side. The fan should not shake. The shaft should not rock, it should rigid.

The screeching noise, and wobbling fan, make me think the pump needs replacement... and soon, before it leaks so badly that it pukes coolant and trashes your engine.

Your engine oil's "color" and "clarity" doesn't look bad on the dipstick. But it looks "high", like you didn't wipe the stick when checking the oil.

Umm... you do know that, if the engine's been running, you need to turn the engine off, remove the dipstick, wipe the dipstick with a rag, put it back in all the way and then pull it out again to check the oil level, yes? I know that this is not common knowledge, I'm not trying to be a jerk

Yea I'm pretty sure it's the water pump do you recommend one that'll maybe be an upgrade I'm pretty sure I can do it

And yea lol I dip and wipe about 3 times before I check oil,this is my 7th car I know basic tryna learn more and avoid shops save some money

 

[Rebel511]

Building on remarks from @Schurkey...

I marked-up the picture (attached).

First: What's that funky connection on the red wire (see arrow on picture)? That wire doesn't look original to me, and I don't remember seeing on like it on my Suburban. Yeah, it looks like it it's electrically conected to a knock sensor via the grungy wire, but otherwise the red wire just looks "wrong" to me.

Second: What's the "device" to which the yellow wire connects (see arrow on picture)?

Third: The red and yellow wire aren't protected in any way, that's odd and makes them seem "user-installed".

Fourth: Why isn't the engine more plainly visible? Is there a rock guard underneath (the grey thing at the right side of the image)? I can see the transmission cooler lines, the "NVH" rod, the kick-out in the block where the dipstick goes, the exhaust pipe and O2 sensor, and the foil-wrapped battery cables, but...

1.The funky thing is a cover type thing where the red and yellow connect then turn into a plug that seems like it's about to fall off.
2.not sure il get more info on it.
3.idk what they were trying to do??
4.it was night and I was under the car should I remove all the cats I think it has 4 or what's a good cheap exhaust I can put ??should I tape those wires up

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

I opened my radiator cap it was filled to the tip top the color is brownish kinda rusty is that good or bad?

Picture please!

Pull a sample of the coolant from the radiator into a clear jar, and check the color. Certain color antifreeze can look dark in the radiator, but in a clear jar you'll see its color more clearly.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

Yea I'm pretty sure it's the water pump do you recommend one that'll maybe be an upgrade I'm pretty sure I can do it

I would stick with a standard replacement water pump. Whether you should buy a "new" pump or a "reman", I won't advise.

I usually buy the more expensive parts in the hopes that I get a better product... but if you're on a budget, that's not always an option.

Let's see that others recommend.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

1.The funky thing is a cover type thing where the red and yellow connect then turn into a plug that seems like it's about to fall off.

Can you take a few more pictures of those wires? Maybe we can figure-out what they are for or whether they're necessary.

I, for one, am inclined to remove any crap that prior owners have installed, because it often becomes trouble later.

should I remove all the cats I think it has 4 or what's a good cheap exhaust I can put ?

If the system is still stock, you'll have two cats.

I won't recommend removing the cats if they're still functioning properly.

If they aren't functioning properly, I suggest you get some good advise regarding "remove" or "replace" because you're in Calif and they seem to take these matters seriously. See this post elsewhere on GMT400 (be sure and take the link):

Catalytic converters.

I've used stainless band clamps for various exhaust projects since the '90s. Highly recommended, as long as a person understands that they are not always re-usable. I can re-use them about 75% of the time, once. By the second or third re-use, they're scrap. Be sure to buy the correct...

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