96 GMC K2500 Suburban Restoration (with a couple of mods)

[South VA]

First camping trip was a success! We have to make some adjustments here and there, but the Suburban pulled the 24' camping trailer without much fuss.

The radiator overflow tank and the windshield water tank were both shot, partly from the Tucson heat and partly from being gnawed by a packrat that took up residence in the engine compartment before I purchased it. Both are now replaced. I also had the shop flush the power steering fluid, which probably has never been done on this vehicle. All belts and hoses look good. We're going camping again for four days starting Monday, so sometime after that I'll work on the new stereo install plus a few odds and ends that need replacing. The backup camera, yet to be installed, will come in handy for backing up to the trailer hitch.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Good to hear! Your Burb is doing what it was built to do, so a little general maintenance and it should continue to be a great truck.

 

[Boots97]

The front edge of the headliner fraying is apparently a common 400 thing in warmer climates. Both of my trucks are doing that, and they have always been in SE Texas. Why GM didn't use a plastic trim piece across this area, I don't understand. Other than it probably saved them some money....
Looks like you have a pretty solid Burb to start with though, so she should be really nice when done. Been my experience on every vehicle in my family, that there's almost always "some unplanned expenses"....

Agreed. My truck spent most of its life in Central MO (not terribly warm) and even then my headliner is fraying there too. The previous owner reattached the headliner with metal thumb tacks

 

[8thNote]

@Southwhat was the ballpark cost on that paint job? I just got a 96 K1500 'Burb in Emerald Green Metallic, but the paint is rough. Im looking to get it resprayed, but ill prob attempt to do most of the prep and body work myself

 

[South VA]

@Southwhat was the ballpark cost on that paint job? I just got a 96 K1500 'Burb in Emerald Green Metallic, but the paint is rough. Im looking to get it resprayed, but ill prob attempt to do most of the prep and body work myself

The paint job and body work, which involved repairing a pretty good dent in the left rear just behind the wheel, and a bunch of minor dings, came to $6200 plus some parts such as a new grille, new hood, new under hood insulation, and fender flares. All in it was about $7000. He stripped most of the existing paint and used top quality primer and clearcoat. He also removed the door handles, bumpers, grille, emblems, roof rack, fender flares, running boards, lights, and probably some other stuff I can’t remember. A full retail job would have been over $10,000.

The prep took the longest, as it was much more involved than he originally thought it would be. Since he was doing the job on the side (in the body shop he works for), it took around two months to complete.

Hope this helps.

 

[South VA]

Heading out for the second camping trip, the alternator gave up the ghost about 20 miles from home. Fortunately I had sense enough to pull off at a conveniently located rest stop on the interstate, and called the shop. They diagnosed it over the phone and said if I could get it to the shop, they’d replace the alternator that day. Long story, with a couple of mishaps, but we got it towed to the shop and we were on our way again. Hopefully that is the only remaining issue with this ‘burb.

 

[South VA]

Had a set of Bilsteins installed, as I thought the existing shocks were showing signs of age. The fronts may have been original; the rears were aftermarket. It feels a bit firmer in the turns, and soaks up bumps a bit better. It will be interesting to see what difference the improved shocks make when towing the camper, especially over some undulating sections of interstates. The shocks weren’t shot, but were getting to the point where they weren’t working as well as they should. I prefer to replace something just before it’s needed, rather than having it fail.

In other news, I had always heard that one shouldn’t tow in 4th, or OD, and so had resigned myself to traveling on interstates at nearly 3000 rpms in 3rd gear. Apparently that’s not quite true. Took me awhile, but I finally looked it up in the owner’s manual, and sure enough, a trailer can be towed in OD, with certain caveats like downshifting on hills. I feel like an idiot, but I’m also pretty happy . Live and learn.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Had a set of Bilsteins installed, as I thought the existing shocks were showing signs of age. The fronts may have been original; the rears were aftermarket. It feels a bit firmer in the turns, and soaks up bumps a bit better. It will be interesting to see what difference the improved shocks make when towing the camper, especially over some undulating sections of interstates. The shocks weren’t shot, but were getting to the point where they weren’t working as well as they should. I prefer to replace something just before it’s needed, rather than having it fail.

In other news, I had always heard that one shouldn’t tow in 4th, or OD, and so had resigned myself to traveling on interstates at nearly 3000 rpms in 3rd gear. Apparently that’s not quite true. Took me awhile, but I finally looked it up in the owner’s manual, and sure enough, a trailer can be towed in OD, with certain caveats like downshifting on hills. I feel like an idiot, but I’m also pretty happy . Live and learn.

Yes the 4L80E will tow in OD, it's built to do so. On our recent trip, the trailer was FULL so I figure we were pulling around a ton and a half, plus what was in the truck (3 people and a bed full of tables and stuff). The trip up was on US290 which is more hilly, but the truck had no problem keeping up with most of the traffic. We averaged 60mph, sometimes got up to 65, but I didn't want to go more than that. The way people like to whip in front of you...just cause I got big brakes, don't mean I wanna fry em trying to stop cause you did something Stoopid!
If you're towing a bigger trailer or a LOT of weight, then the downshifting is probably a good idea. My truck probably won't ever tow much more than a small utility trailer or maybe a small travel trailer though.

 

[South VA]

So as mentioned in another thread, I'll probably install a transmission temperature gauge, with a bung welded onto the existing pan. Since I am going to be towing in OD, having such a gauge seems to be a reasonable thing to do.

I also need to get off my butt and install the aftermarket stereo (and backup camera), which has been sitting around for more than a few months. The camera will be handy for backing up to the camper hitch, not to mention helping avoid obstacles such as trees.

Other miscellaneous items include installing the missing driver's side door spring, and then replacing the driver's side door hinge pins and bushings, as the door sags a bit.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Backup camera is great for trailer hookups! I went to Louisiana several years ago with several friends from the model car club, and we met at one guy's house to get his trailer. The guy who was driving, and hauling the trailer, had a then new '08 Yukon XL Denali with that option. He lined up exactly on the hitch, had it hooked up and ready to go in five minutes.