96 GMC K2500 Suburban Restoration (with a couple of mods)

[Erik the Awful]

Without looking at it, he said it would probably cost me around $3500 to $3900.

Does that include installation? New torque converter? For $3900 you can buy a B&M or TCI 4L80e and a "Genuine GM" torque converter and install it yourself.

 

[South VA]

Does that include installation? New torque converter? For $3900 you can buy a B&M or TCI 4L80e and a "Genuine GM" torque converter and install it yourself.

The price includes R&R and a new TC. I have to get back with him about the details, but my understanding is that it’s turnkey.

As for doing the swap myself, unfortunately I don’t have all-weather work space. I’m taking steps to remedy that, but it won’t be in time for this job.

 

[South VA]

The price includes R&R and a new TC. I have to get back with him about the details, but my understanding is that it’s turnkey.

As for doing the swap myself, unfortunately I don’t have all-weather work space. I’m taking steps to remedy that, but it won’t be in time for this job.

@Erik the Awful I stand corrected. The TC is a reman unit, rather than new. The price does include R&R. The trans is completely disassembled, and all wear items and seals are replaced, along with anything else they find that needs replacing. I asked them about the transmission ground; they check that as well, replacing it if necessary.

The warranty is 12 months/12,000 miles.

 

[Erik the Awful]

I'm not telling you that you're wrong either way, just that there are options out there. For that price I would really have to trust that the transmission shop is going to get it right the first time. Do they have a transmission dyno and do they dyno each transmission before installation? If so, then their price might be worth it. Is it Joe Bob throwing seals into transmissions in an empty space between the bench grinder and the abrasive cabinet? Hard pass.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Went and did a quick google search...Performabuilt has gotten more costly than it used to be for sure on transmissions.

Gearstar was similar money but doesn't include the R&R:

https://gearstar.com/gm-4l80e-performance-transmission-level-2/



Definitely look into the TPS sensor I mentioned a few pages back(especially with your code showing), buy a good AC Delco replacement, skip the parts store lifetime warranty garbage.




Like you, I live in the sticks, but I'll take that over living in a town/city any day of the week. I'm also anti "new" vehicle, I despise the fact that after I buy it and pay sales tax, I get to "lease" it from the government every year when I renew my tags. Last "new" vehicle I had was a 2017 F150 that was my DD before my K2500 'burb. Almost $900/yr to tag it ....awesome pickup, nicest vehicle I've ever owned, purchased because my wife runs the local Ford dealership. I was quickly reminded, however, why I don't like newer vehicles though. That 5.0l Coyote was pretty impressive, definitely hate to admit that.

Total cost of ownership is the most important thing to me, after the "turn and look" aspect. Cents per mile is how I view my drivers. I can dump a lot of money into my 'burb or my DD 20 year old Tundra before I even creep up on a late model used vehicle price.

 

[South VA]

I'm not telling you that you're wrong either way, just that there are options out there. For that price I would really have to trust that the transmission shop is going to get it right the first time. Do they have a transmission dyno and do they dyno each transmission before installation? If so, then their price might be worth it. Is it Joe Bob throwing seals into transmissions in an empty space between the bench grinder and the abrasive cabinet? Hard pass.

I'm not taking it that way; you're being helpful. I appreciate that there are options - it's just that under my current circumstances, my options are limited. I agree, it's a lot of money, and definitely not in the budget.

As for trusting that he'll get it right the first time, I'm going with my gut, based on the shop's reputation plus conversations with the shop owner - during which he was helpful, patient, and sounded knowledgeable about the 4L80E.

The shop has been in business in the Richmond area, although not at that same location, since 1959, and was incorporated, presumably under the new owner, in 1994. It has a very good reputation locally, even though it's 60 miles away from here. It also has a 4.5 star rating with 32 reviews on Google.

I don't know about the transmission dyno, but it may be that the shop doesn't have one. A test drive was all that was mentioned. However, he doesn't sound like Joe Bob, even a little bit.

That said, I just might take the time to hop into my DD this week and go have a look at his shop, and meet him in person.

 

[South VA]

Went and did a quick google search...Performabuilt has gotten more costly than it used to be for sure on transmissions.

Gearstar was similar money but doesn't include the R&R:

https://gearstar.com/gm-4l80e-performance-transmission-level-2/



Definitely look into the TPS sensor I mentioned a few pages back(especially with your code showing), buy a good AC Delco replacement, skip the parts store lifetime warranty garbage.

Like you, I live in the sticks, but I'll take that over living in a town/city any day of the week. I'm also anti "new" vehicle, I despise the fact that after I buy it and pay sales tax, I get to "lease" it from the government every year when I renew my tags. Last "new" vehicle I had was a 2017 F150 that was my DD before my K2500 'burb. Almost $900/yr to tag it ....awesome pickup, nicest vehicle I've ever owned, purchased because my wife runs the local Ford dealership. I was quickly reminded, however, why I don't like newer vehicles though. That 5.0l Coyote was pretty impressive, definitely hate to admit that.

Total cost of ownership is the most important thing to me, after the "turn and look" aspect. Cents per mile is how I view my drivers. I can dump a lot of money into my 'burb or my DD 20 year old Tundra before I even creep up on a late model used vehicle price.

Wow, that Gearstar is pretty pricey! Sounds like a good unit though. Thanks for posting that.

That said, I think I'll ask the transmission guy about possible upgrades to my transmission for towing. I don't know if that's practical or not - but I'll ask.

And thanks, an ACDelco TPS is already on its way. When I pulled the codes on my scan tool, I asked the transmission guy if a bad TPS could affect the transmission, he said Oh yeah, definitely.

Living in the sticks is great! But it has its costs. That's ok - there's no free lunch, anywhere.

Don't recall if I mentioned it, but I've owned exactly two new vehicles in my lifetime, both of which I sold for used vehicles that were more appealing to me. It just takes some patience to get an older vehicle up to top form. And money.

But you're right; total cost of ownership is almost always lower with an older vehicle. Sometimes, however, as is the case with this transmission rebuild, the cash flow doesn't look so great.

Looked another way - it's temporary. At some point I'll run out of things that need fixing!

And I'm once again reflecting on the fact that I have learned so much since I started this project and joined this forum, not all that long ago. What a great community this is!

 

[South VA]

In case anyone's interested, this is a live data report from the scan tool. The engine wasn't completely warmed up, so it may not be entirely accurate.

Now I have to figure out what all of this means...

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[South VA]

How 'bout that - Book 2 of the GM Shop Manual has a guide to scan tool values; a glossary of scan tool terms; and some nice diagrams of component locations!

 

[Road Trip]

I'm also anti "new" vehicle, I despise the fact that after I buy it and pay sales tax, I get to "lease" it from the government every year when I renew my tags. Last "new" vehicle I had was a 2017 F150 that was my DD before my K2500 'burb. Almost $900/yr to tag it ....awesome pickup, nicest vehicle I've ever owned, purchased because my wife runs the local Ford dealership. I was quickly reminded, however, why I don't like newer vehicles though.

Greetings OD, from the above I can tell that we were raised by similar parents. :0)

My first (and last) new car was an '84 Mustang GT. 5.0/5-speed/factory Holley 4v, posi,
quadra-shock, etc.) Have wonderful memories of that car, was finally able to remove
the giant chip on my shoulder about never owning a new car. However, in 3 short car
payments (and eating a lot of mac & cheese) I was forever cured of the need to own a new car.
Problem was, I still had 45 more payments in my little payment book.
(Remember those? I didn't think so. :0)

So I revised my car ownership mission statement. No longer did I want to own a new
car. It became "I prefer to drive an interesting/fun car in new condition." And FWIW, I sold my
new car in order to buy my first house.

****

Currently here in NY, the state sales tax is 8%. So let's say that you manage to find a new truck
that can do the work you want for only $50K. (Google link) This means that before you
pay the first $ on your note (principal or interest) you first have to pay the state exactly
$4,000 in sales tax. (!)

So, when I tell people that even after buying my '99 C2500 for $3000 & making it roadworthy,**
I am still driving on just the NY state sales tax on an equivalent no frills '23 2500HD model.

Driving old is not for everyone...but it's perfect for me. And quality time spent in front of
the workbench/blast cabinet/flowbench is time that keeps my mind gonkulating and my person
from being talked into more sketchy pursuits. :0)

Total cost of ownership is the most important thing to me, after the "turn and look" aspect. Cents per mile is how I view my drivers. I can dump a lot of money into my 'burb or my DD 20 year old Tundra before I even creep up on a late model used vehicle price.

I was taught the 'cents per mile' thing at the airbase by my mentors. There are a lot of
car enthusiasts amongst airplane wrenchers, but in VT the 'get to drive' cars/trucks were
reserved for the sunny daze, while the 'got to drive' DD took all the adverse weather/salt/etc.
Anyway, the parking lots were full of used old soldier Civics, Tercels, Escorts, and Cavaliers. Why?

All those guys were playing to join the 10¢ per mile club. Buy a used car with a mechanical
mid-life crisis for $2000, put $2000 worth of brakes/shocks/tires/clutch/wiper blades/whatever
into it...and once you drove the thing for 40,000 miles, you were in! My personal best was
3¢/per mile. ($1500 well-used '89 Civic hatchback w/electrical issues, $1500 total parts over
90K miles...and since I had it dialed in thanks to treasure yard upgrades I actually enjoyed the
'gotta drive' miles -- win win! :0)

So when people ask me that if I'm such a car freak why don't I own the new Ferrari V12 SUV (LINK)
as my DD, I simply reply that even if I spent $0 on maintenance, I'd have to drive it for over
4 million miles before I could get it into the 10¢/mile game. So, it's off the table. And I'm
going to have to somehow figure out how to find my 528 ft/lbs of torque somewhere in
my own back yard. :0)

Sincerely,

Frugal Gump


**Sales tax, ($240) 4 new Bilsteins ($306) all new rear brakes/p-brake cables (~$200-250?) & misc plugs/fluids/etc ($150)