96 c1500 engine swap

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Erik the Awful

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I don't know about belt alignment with the older engine and the Vortec accessory drive. The Vortec engine would have a crank sensor reluctor behind the damper hub, and you won't do that with the "older" engine...I guess...which could throw off the belt alignment. I've never played with this so I don't know what works and what doesn't--just be aware to look for issues and fix as needed.
BTDT. You'll have to use the Vortec timing cover, since it has the hole for the crank sensor. It's missing two of the bolt holes the earlier block has, but you can puckey over them. You'll need to keep the reluctor wheel and the shorter Vortec crank pulley. If I remember right, the older timing chains don't work with the newer crank gear, but it's been a year or so. Plan on using the Vortec timing chain and gears. Like Schurkey said, tap threads in the coolant bypass and put a internal hex pipe plug in it. It's just between sizes, so my block ended up with just enough thread to get the plug to take. I put some puckey on it to help seal.
 

Eveready

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If you are on a limited budget you would be far better off getting a solid Junkyard motor that is made for the more modern truck and able to work with a computer. If you are looking for a daily driver you are going to end up driving an old Toyota while your "project" sits until you are sick of it and you sell it for parts.

On the other hand if you go ahead and get a motor that is ready to drop in, you could be driving a solid truck in a couple of months. Get a good motor, get everything fixed that needs fixing and have a truck that is worth something and one you can depend on. I realize you probably didn't want to hear this but if you proceed with the old engine you will most likely to end up with a non working mess. Good luck whatever you do.
 

Mark Gilbert

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No. The PCM does provide prime, but any time the PCM is getting a signal that the engine is running via the pickup coil/ignition module, it engages the fuel pump relay.

The oil pressure switch bypasses the fuel pump relay; if everything is working properly, "both" the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch power the pump. If the PCM, wire harness, or fuel pump relay fails, oil pressure switch powers the pump whenever the engine has oil pressure and the ignition is "on".

I wasn't aware that the PCM powered the fuel pump relay for anything other than the prime. Does that apply to all of the OBD1 PCM's or just the later ones?
 

Dan96c1500

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Despite all the issues an stuff that may occur, motor alrede in shop lol aint backin down now, but i will post about build when i get it back until completion
Alrede in a donor daily driver truck hasnt been drove for bout 4 months now i start once a week to keep somewat runnin to get it moved to my garage
 

Dan96c1500

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Got a edlebrock 7101
And holley 650
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Goin to pull old motor n tranny
Put new in well new to me. The way i see it is ill have no need for any computer needs, will need fuel regulator to get down to 6-10psi not much to it, couple other tedious tasks but i got a guru helpin so should be ok, will be couple weeks away from starting project.
 

Schurkey

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I wasn't aware that the PCM powered the fuel pump relay for anything other than the prime. Does that apply to all of the OBD1 PCM's or just the later ones?
Far as I know, this is "universal GM engineering". Even my '92 and '93 Luminas are set up that way, so it's not just GMT400. I bet it goes back to the first GM vehicles that had an electric fuel pump and an on-board computer.

I'm in a different conversation on another thread, and need to find actual wiring diagrams of the ECM/fuel relay/oil switch wiring. I have an idea in my head for how it's all wired, and this other guy has a different idea. But until I can drag my lazy ass out to the shop and my wiring-diagram book, I'm just spouting opinion instead of fact.
 

Erik the Awful

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If you ever go back to Vortec heads, that intake will not even come close to bolting up. I bought the Summit 226018 manifold and a TBI adapter for mine.
 
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