88-94 replacement seat covers

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John Pippin

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sewlow

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"The 1988 and newer models have some of the original seat upholstery heat laminated to the foam making it very difficult to remove the old upholstery. Our seat kits for these models do not require the removal of this laminated upholstery. Our sets will go right over the original and hog ring where the original seat cover is attached."

To me...that's not seat 'upholstery'.
That's a seat 'cover'. ...and it's not OEM fabric. Relatively close, but not the exact stuff.
Most of the seat cushion upholstery on 400's are attached via long plastic clips that run around the outer perimeter of the original skins & snap on to the metal frame.
Very few areas of these seats are held on with hog rings. One or two, maybe 3 spots, depending on whatever year, style & either bench or buckets.
There are no provisions on these seat cushion frame pans for the use of hog rings other than the factory requirements.
Velcro or glue is used inside both the cushions & backrests on the foam faces/seat skin backs to hold the skins down to the foam, giving the seat surface definition. Holds it down in all the right spots in order to get that form along with preventing the skin from moving around on the foam face.
Zippers for closing the backrests on both buckets & benches.
I wouldn't consider these covers real 'replacement' covers. There's no way that the fit will duplicate the factory originals without that interior velcro (or glue) & the plastic perimeter clips. Going over top of the existing cover, where would the aftermarket covers attach on the faces? Where would the cushion covers attach if the factory seat cushion skins with their clips are already in the way?
$400.00? Just for the covers? Then your time? The frustration? ...and it'll never look just right either.
If that bench seat was to show up at my door, drop it off in the AM, be ready by noon the next day. $200-$250 more. Your choice of colors in a decently tough long-lasting fabric. Along with any other issues the seat may have, addressed at the same time. Lube & check that the tracks are working right. Whatever foam repairs required.

My rant for the day! Lol!
 
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Hipster

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"The 1988 and newer models have some of the original seat upholstery heat laminated to the foam making it very difficult to remove the old upholstery. Our seat kits for these models do not require the removal of this laminated upholstery. Our sets will go right over the original and hog ring where the original seat cover is attached."

To me...that's not seat 'upholstery'.
That's a seat 'cover'. ...and it's not OEM fabric. Relatively close, but not the exact stuff.
Most of the seat cushion upholstery on 400's are attached via long plastic clips that run around the outer perimeter of the original skins & snap on to the metal frame.
Very few areas of these seats are held on with hog rings. One or two, maybe 3 spots, depending on whatever year, style & either bench or buckets.
There are no provisions on these seat cushion frame pans for the use of hog rings other than the factory requirements.
Velcro or glue is used inside both the cushions & backrests on the foam faces/seat skin backs to hold the skins down to the foam, giving the seat surface definition. Holds it down in all the right spots in order to get that form along with preventing the skin from moving around on the foam face.
Zippers for closing the backrests on both buckets & benches.
I wouldn't consider these covers real 'replacement' covers. There's no way that the fit will duplicate the factory originals without that interior velcro (or glue) & the plastic perimeter clips. Going over top of the existing cover, where would the aftermarket covers attach on the faces? Where would the cushion covers attach if the factory seat cushion skins with their clips are already in the way?
$400.00? Just for the covers? Then your time? The frustration? ...and it'll never look just right either.
If that bench seat was to show up at my door, drop it off in the AM, be ready by noon the next day. $200-$250 more. Your choice of colors in a decently tough long-lasting fabric. Along with any other issues the seat may have, addressed at the same time. Lube & check that the tracks are working right. Whatever foam repairs required.

My rant for the day! Lol!

I don't think what I posted is much different then what the op posted. I couldn't open the catalog he linked.

So why you ranting at me? Slow yer roll lol

Upholstery is another dying art and agree with most of what you say.

I worked alongside an upholstery shop in a body shop and repaired and welded seat frames back together for him when needed. I've also done my fair share of blown out seat air bags, foam, and upholstery with oem covers and seat foam as part of the collision work deal so it's not like I haven't been around it or trying take anything away from the pro's. There are are some amazing craftsman out there. A seat cover is not going to be comparable to what a pro can do but most pros can get them on there pretty nice. A diy guy might or might not get lucky and I know the guy next to us was forever pulling off and re-doing Legendary/resto job covers to tighten stuff up. Panels that were wrinkles etc. He would rant about the aftermarket stuff, but I walked in while he was doing one of these truck seats and inquired because it was not his normal thing. He had a thin foam glued to the top of the bottom seat and was getting ready to roll the cover on. His explanation was that if the seat is intact and it's only the cover that's worn then it's easier to do it this way then to remove the old cover and destroy the seat foam in the process. The covered seat looked pretty good when done. Nobody can get the same fabric run and dye lots from 20+ years ago so you only get so close to exact either way. Just a different means to a similar end. May be a better option depending on the situation.

At the end of the day are you not sewing covers together and installing them on seats?
 
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sewlow

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My rant wasn't aimed at you.
It was towards the 'covers' being marketed as something they're not.
Especially when they're using a pic of a seat with OEM upholstery as a representation of their product.

Most guys working in their backyard shops, with little or no upholstering experience, wouldn't have a clue as to what they're actually purchasing. The caveat that the seller has wouldn't mean doo-doo to those guys.
Besides, it all sounds pretty easy according to the brochure!
So they get the covers. Spend the afternoon fussing & fighting with them. On-n-off 1/2 a dozen times. They don't look like the picture in the catalogue!
Phones the supplier.
The tech line guy has minimal knowledge with no actual hands-on experience. Maybe he spent an hour watching a pro with years of experience pull a cover on one time. The pro made it look simple because...welll...years of experience.
Customer gives it a couple more tries. Cover fits like poop.
Calls supplier & finds out he can't return it.
As soon as one hog ring is put through the material, it's his. It's not in the condition as originally shipped. (Damn fine-print!)
So he takes the cover to his local stitch guy. Finds out that to get the covers to actually fit properly, the labor is going to cost him almost as much as what those covers cost in the first place.

Most reputable upholstery guys I know, wouldn't touch the job. Why would they risk their rep putting their name on a finished project that was crap to begin with? Try as you might, you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

I've had people bring me some pretty high-end vehicles (Antique & Vintage resto's. '60's Vettes, Exotics such as E-Types, M.B.'s, etc.) to have 'a kit' installed that the owner bought from wherever.
Some of those kits were damn expensive.
Unless the cover is an actual OEM part, when it comes to kits, with few exceptions, I've had to pull seams apart & restitch. Maybe just a minor modification to get a nasty wrinkle out. Other times the person that made the cover took shortcuts. They're on a production line. I've commonly seen stuff like the stitch person pulling on one piece & shrinking another of two being sewn together so as to make line-up marks match instead of finding out why the marks don't line up in the first place. I've seen center line-up marks, the most important requirement when patterning, be out by as much as half inch between the two pieces that were supposed to be matching. That kind of inaccuracy will never make for a primo finished product. I've even had kits where the whole cover had to be taken down to the smallest bits & pieces because it was wrong from the get-go. Basically starting all over.
At the end of the job I've told more than a few customers that they would of been better off & not as light in the wallet if I had just done the job from scratch to begin with.

I've removed the glued-on covers on these truck's seats many times. When done right, the cover can be removed with little to no damage to the foam base.
It's no secret & it's not that hard to do. Requires a steamer. Basic standard equipment in an upholstery shop, but it's a tool that the average back yard shop isn't equipped with.

But like I said. I didn't mean all this as a jab in your ribs.
It's at the aftermarket kit Co.'s that get away with selling lesser quality products while hiding the shortcomings of such through glossy-flowery salesman mumbo-jumbo & fine-print.
 

Steven Petersen

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I bought the blue covers for my 88 last year. Although the material is pretty close to the 88-89 style, the blue is not right. Too dark. And they don't feel like the original.
 
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