4 Hi Headlight Mod

[sewlow]

Ditto! I hate those POS's!

 

[1997k1500Calvin]

Hopefully I can do this mod soon

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[kkirwan71]

I have headlight flashers on my high beams with this affect them any?

 

[glfirefighter144]

I have headlight flashers on my high beams with this affect them any?

Yes. It will require some modification to work with factory lights, but he may be able to work out the wiring before shipping, though it may cost you. I have 4 hi on my 96 and the wiring was a pain when I wired wig wags in

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[glfirefighter144]

Yes. It will require some modification to work with factory lights, but he may be able to work out the wiring before shipping, though it may cost you. I have 4 hi on my 96 and the wiring was a pain when I wired wig wags in

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Sorry, wrong thread, but you will have to modify the wiring prior to the split for the wig wags yet after the high beam splice with a relay to prevent the wig wag from back feeding the low beams on. If I can figure out a way to illustrate it for you I will try

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[95C1500]

Did this today. Pain in the ass because of my lack of wiring ability but it works...

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and since I've searched this thread a hundred times for an answer, I used a 30 amp relay and a 20 amp fuse in the inline fuse holder.

 

[1997k1500Calvin]

I'm gonna have to be an ass and say that since this is a sticky, this write-up really needs some improvements. Most of what I'm going to say has already been said, but it really needs to appear in the original post.

First, you do not have to remove the headlights, it's better and easier to make the splices in the wiring loom that runs along the driver's side fender.

Along with that, there's no point in wasting wire by running it to the battery, you can grab power from one the auxiliary posts in the underhood fuse box.

Last, and most importantly, never EVER use these crappy connectors on anything you give a damn about:

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Pictures? Directions

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[great white]

I have headlight flashers on my high beams with this affect them any?

Tap into the yellow wire coming out of the headlight switch in the dash. Run that wire out to pin 85 on your relay. Ground pin 86. Put 12v on pin 30. Run pin 87 to your lowbeams.

Done.

Now you can do whatever you want with your high beams as your low beams are now independent of your high beams. As a side bonus, if your multifunction switch ever messes up your low beams will still come on.

Lastly, you've now got a built in 4 hi mod. Your highs can be switched on and off without effecting the lows. Thats really good for hid's as they don't like power interruptions at all....not at all.

30a relay minimum, 40a preferred. A double pin 87 relay is preferred as you can run a dedicated wire to each headlight instead of jamming two wires into on blade connector. It also splits the load across two contactor's inside the relay instead of one.

I like 10 gauge stranded wire, but that's overkill for most people's setup. 12 gauge is more than enough. 14 gauge is getting pretty small for headlight harness IMHO...

 

[Cadon69]

Doesn't this mod add more power being routed through the switch in the dash? That is the reason I want to get Barons harness for better output and have the 4HI mod.


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[great white]

Doesn't this mod add more power being routed through the switch in the dash? That is the reason I want to get Barons harness for better output and have the 4HI mod.


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Nope.

Either the original harness modification or the one I listed above removes power load off the dash switch because you are only triggering the coil in the relay.

Talking milliamps instead of amps.

The difference in the method I listed is that you bypass all the stuff in the multifunction switch and you don't need an extra relay to do the 4 hi mod.

The only drawback is you have to run a relatively small gauge wire through the firewall.