350 swap questions

[L31MaxExpress]

Another plus of the electric pump is far less cranking when the fuel bowls are empty before the engine starts. Think HOT restart in 105°F weather that boils the carb bowls dry or after a few weeks of sitting. The return style system also keeps cooler fuel flowing to the engine.

The GM ZZ3/ZZ4 conversion kit for the 3rd gen F-cars even had an in-tank electric pump and a bypass regulator supplied to overcome fuel starvation that resulted from the mechanical 3rd gen pump.

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-syste...r-use-pollution-controlled-vehicle/810127_0_0
Would this regulator work? It seems like it provides the pressure ranges for a carb, I would just need to get fittings to run lines into and out of it and to mount a gauge somewhere.

Also, could someone point me where to look for the correct frame side motor plates for a v8?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Would this regulator work? It seems like it provides the pressure ranges for a carb, I would just need to get fittings to run lines into and out of it and to mount a gauge somewhere.

That doesn't look like a bypass regulator. Take a look at this one. @L31MaxExpress or @Supercharged111 do you agree?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

What are the differences between the two?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Your in-tank fuel pump is capable of producing, let's say 20PSI, your carburetor only needs 3 - 8 PSI. If your pressure regulator isn't a bypass style, your pump will dead head at 20PSI, draw more amps and burn up. The bypass style will maintain the 3 - 8 PSI for the carb and divert the extra fuel back to the tank. This is the same way the TBI works, it has 2 lines from the tank. The big one is the supply and the smaller one is the return. You hook up the big line to the inlet of the regulator and the small line to the return port and the carb to the regulated port. In other words, a non-bypass regulator only has 2 ports where the bypass regulator has 3.

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

Ah, gotcha. Sounds simple enough.

Now when I am measuring the TC to determine which flexplate I need, do I measure outside diameter? That's the only way I can figure at least. There's only so many ways a guy can measure something, right?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Ah, gotcha. Sounds simple enough.

Now when I am measuring the TC to determine which flexplate I need, do I measure outside diameter? That's the only way I can figure at least. There's only so many ways a guy can measure something, right?

Just use the 168 tooth so that you can reuse your 4.3 starter.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

That doesn't look like a bypass regulator. Take a look at this one. @L31MaxExpress or @Supercharged111 do you agree?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp

This is the one I used on my setup. Reused it with the TBI and the TPI as well. It is going on my 383 Vortec based MPI build as well.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-bypass-regulator/

 

[Jerryred94silvy]

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain...ywheel-automatic-transmission-fra-113/51318_0
Like this?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

This is the one I used on my setup. Reused it with the TBI and the TPI as well. It is going on my 383 Vortec based MPI build as well.

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/universal-bypass-regulator/

I saw that one too but that aeromotive regulator is boost referenced and more expensive. If you don't have boost, or plan to, I was looking at a cheaper option.