1999 K2500 Suburban - Hydroboost leaking, replace or upgrade?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Old Truck

Newbie
Joined
May 19, 2020
Messages
19
Reaction score
15
Location
Waller, TX
I had to replace mine on a 95 c3500 cclb that was leaking for over a year. Picked one up at Pick A Part, put it on without messing with the brake master cylinder and hasn't leaked a drop. Picked up an ATEAM gasket kit for the leaker, but have not put it in yet.
 

TexasAggie

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 22, 2020
Messages
143
Reaction score
130
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I just did the seal replacement myself. The seals on Amazon/ateam performance were too soft and kept ripping on me. The ones from pirate were slightly stronger and held up better.

Access issues aren’t too bad. I didn’t do anything in the area of the pedals. All under the hood.

So you pulled the hydroboost apart without taking it off the firewall? That's what I'm planning on doing as soon as I get the parts. Any tips or tricks I should know about?
 

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
12,801
Reaction score
15,678
So you pulled the hydroboost apart without taking it off the firewall? That's what I'm planning on doing as soon as I get the parts. Any tips or tricks I should know about?

That's what I did too. Try to not tear the seal like I did! I put a paper plate and paper towels below the HB to catch what comes out.
 

GoToGuy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 16, 2020
Messages
3,148
Reaction score
3,701
Location
CAL
You must be registered for see images attach

Here is one of my ateam(on right) seals next to my prior seal(on left). The prior seal had a crack in the groove. The a team seal was so soft that it swelled up almost immediately on both the first and second kit I bought. They were the same size before installation.
Thats really wild. I've only had that when incompatible materials fluids used.
 

castine917

Newbie
Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
23
Location
Grand Rapids Mi.
So you pulled the hydroboost apart without taking it off the firewall? That's what I'm planning on doing as soon as I get the parts. Any tips or tricks I should know about?
Yes. Without taking off firewall.

Followed instructions. Bleed pressure, remove lines, remove master cylinder bolts, slide/swing master to side, remove booster bolts, slide off carefully to not lose parts. Then it gets “fun” swapping seals. (My hands are x large).
 

castine917

Newbie
Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
23
Location
Grand Rapids Mi.
Thats really wild. I've only had that when incompatible materials fluids used.
I’ve just been using power steering fluid.

The outer edges fit in groove of booster and inner lip has the cylinder sliding through it. My theory on the first one was a lack of lubricant or a burr that caught. Ordered a second one. It felt super soft to me. Made sure no burrs and good lubrication. Blew right away. Ordered a third from pirate. Felt little stiffer. Held up better.
 

AuroraGirl

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
1,059
Reaction score
1,241
Location
Northern Wisconsin
I’ve just been using power steering fluid.

The outer edges fit in groove of booster and inner lip has the cylinder sliding through it. My theory on the first one was a lack of lubricant or a burr that caught. Ordered a second one. It felt super soft to me. Made sure no burrs and good lubrication. Blew right away. Ordered a third from pirate. Felt little stiffer. Held up better.
Id be putting a magnetic filter in a hydroboost system 100% just because it has a fluid loop from a pump which esp aftermarket ones often arent high quality and metal debris can quickly start circulating with pump failures or defects or high heat and wrong fluid choices etc etc.

what kind of pump you got? Regular saginaw with the hydrboost reservoir? is the flow control valve from your original pump or is it the one that came with it?

excess GPM and pressure do one thing when you account for time and miles.
wear the things they circulate through. especially if its got metal.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

TexasAggie

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 22, 2020
Messages
143
Reaction score
130
Location
Fort Worth, TX
Yes. Without taking off firewall.

Followed instructions. Bleed pressure, remove lines, remove master cylinder bolts, slide/swing master to side, remove booster bolts, slide off carefully to not lose parts. Then it gets “fun” swapping seals. (My hands are x large).
The seals are in the half that stay on the firewall, right? Are they both in there? The instructions I've been looking at only mention one seal.

Maybe I need to find better instructions!
 

Supercharged111

Truly Awesome
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
12,801
Reaction score
15,678
Yes. Without taking off firewall.

Followed instructions. Bleed pressure, remove lines, remove master cylinder bolts, slide/swing master to side, remove booster bolts, slide off carefully to not lose parts. Then it gets “fun” swapping seals. (My hands are x large).

I left the lines attached.

Also, +1 on the filter, I should do that too. I'd done a full purge on the PS last year and I still found this in the HB.

You must be registered for see images attach


Red because I dumped 2 bottles of Lucas in an attempt to kick the can on fixing the leak until I got home.
 

castine917

Newbie
Joined
Apr 22, 2017
Messages
34
Reaction score
23
Location
Grand Rapids Mi.
The seals are in the half that stay on the firewall, right? Are they both in there? The instructions I've been looking at only mention one seal.

Maybe I need to find better instructions!
The figure eight seal will be on side still attached to firewall. The round seal is in the part I removed from the truck.
 
Top