1999 5.7 350 vortec P0304 cylinder 4 misfire

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Road Trip

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Do you guys think this is too much wobble in my crankshaft pulley? im wondering if this making my engine shake at idle

Depends. If it's just the serpentine belt pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer then, when you stumble
across one in better condition for the right price then you should consider making a low cost smoothness
upgrade.

On the other hand, if the serpentine belt pulley is in good condition but it's jumping around like that
because the harmonic balancer it's bolted to is jumping around, then that should be replaced as soon
as practical. Here's an exploded diagram of what you've got:



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By the way, your water pump pulley in the background is showing you what's possible
in the serpentine belt subsystem. Almost dead smooth.

For what it's worth I scoured the FSM for a runout spec for the harmonic balancer, and
found nothing. But I did manage to find a discussion in a Corvette forum where they
were discussing a TSB having to do with excessive harmonic balancer runout leading to
a chirping serpentine belt?


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Note: The spec the TSB gave for total allowable runout is 0.40mm. (0.0157" for us yanks.)
Kinda hard to visualize that way, but knowing that 0.0156 = 1/64" means that it doesn't
take much shake, rattle, or roll on the front of the crank to cross the threshold for the
LS TSB above.

Disclaimer: If you look at the attached picture of the LS harmonic balancer you can see
that for improved packaging the serpentine belt pulley is now part of the outer harmonic
balancer ring, so this helps to explain why serpentine belt chirping could be caused by
excess runout stemming from a bonding issue between inner hub and outer ring.

To reiterate, you have a serpentine belt pulley on the front of your crank's harmonic balancer
that's bolted to the hub. If you could take another look, and try to see if your balancer is
running smooth, but at the same time the pulley still has the runout observed in your
prior video, than replacing the pulley with one with less runout will be a good thing.

One last thing. If the front main bearing journal has more than ~.002-.003" total
wear, then you will hear a deep thudding for the first second or two of engine operation
until the oil pressure comes up and takes up the extra clearance. In other words,
if your engine is quiet down there as most small blocks are, then the front of the
crank is running dead smooth. The TSB I found on balancer runout are considered
wobbly when the travel is in excess of ~.015".

If I had to guess, I'm thinking that if you put a dial indicator to your harmonic balancer
that you will get a reading well within that spec. But if you then put the same dial indicator
on your serpentine belt pulley that you will find enough runout to explain what we all
saw in your video.

Hope this helps to explain what you observed.

Cheers --
 

Attachments

  • 6.2L LS Harmonic Balancer Crank Pulley for Chevy GMC Truck Van Tahoe 4.8 6.2 5.3.jpg
    6.2L LS Harmonic Balancer Crank Pulley for Chevy GMC Truck Van Tahoe 4.8 6.2 5.3.jpg
    154 KB · Views: 6
  • Vortec 350 Harmonic Balancer (marked up) - GM Genuine Parts 10243271 Engine Harmonic Balancer.jpg
    Vortec 350 Harmonic Balancer (marked up) - GM Genuine Parts 10243271 Engine Harmonic Balancer.jpg
    201.3 KB · Views: 6
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socal k1500

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checked balancer at idle with belt off and pulley off seems fine. the rubber looks old but not separated

I spent time really watching my scanner at idle and I was able to hammer down the misfiring cylinders at work this morning its 1,3,4 - 4 being the highest of counts

truck definitely idles worse the warmer it gets. when i first start it there is very little roughness if any but by the time i get to work about a 30 minute drive and park the engine is shaking. RPMS are consistent no change while it idles rough. Seems to be worse in park then when in drive but still noticeable for both

spark adv 26°
MAP psi 4.6
MAF 6.47 g/s
i also have negative fuel trims at idle
bank 1 (-7%)
bank 2 (-13%)
 
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socal k1500

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Been awhile since an update so i thought id let yall know i replaced the harmonic balancer, crankshaft pulley and the seal. The old harmonic balancer looked decent the rubber was intact and had some small cracks but nothing that popped out. Truck still idles the same. Best way to describe it is like a wobble or like its unbalanced. I noticed that both my engine mounts look shot the rubber is totally cracked and spitting. Truck drives, idles reliably tho so for now im just giving up on this weird idle thing just gunna ignore it and drive it. I also replaced some of the small hard plastic vaccum lines that ive cracked and repaired over the years. Im leaning more and more away from the idea that the misfire is causing the engine shake i feel. My live data misfire counts happen so infrequently with sometimes more than 5-10 minutes between them that it doesnt line up with the engine shaking im feeling thats consistent


ive moved onto other pressing matters with the truck like fixing the sagging door which i replaced bushings and pins from cunningham but after so much slamming the latch assembly is shot and doesnt work in the new fixed position so i had to tear the door down to replaced the latch. i still need to replaced the idler arm, pitman arm and tie rods and finally the two front seat bottoms are shot so i need to fix them or get better seat covers. Thanks to everyone in the thread who helped me. If i discover something or figure it out ill report back but dont expect any updates anytime soon.

also still just considering selling it to buy a gmt800 tahoe which would better serve my off-roading needs.
 

socal k1500

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Update, replaced my radiator due to a leak and in the process noticed my radiator fan blade assembly has a broken blade missing. I think this is what's causing the engine vibration at idle. Going to replace asap and report back. Hopefully i didnt mess my bearings driving it like this for so long
 

Schurkey

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Replace the water pump and fan clutch BEFORE those bearings give out and cause real problems.

Pull the block drain plugs, and flush the coolant since you're going to have the cooling system opened-up anyway.
 

socal k1500

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Replace the water pump and fan clutch BEFORE those bearings give out and cause real problems.

Pull the block drain plugs, and flush the coolant since you're going to have the cooling system opened-up anyway.
i flushed the coolant a few months ago, and did it again when i replaced the radiator and all the hoses. I will replace the water pump and clutch soon though. I am very curious if one missinng blade can cause the king of engine shake im feeling.
 

Orpedcrow

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i flushed the coolant a few months ago, and did it again when i replaced the radiator and all the hoses. I will replace the water pump and clutch soon though. I am very curious if one missinng blade can cause the king of engine shake im feeling.
What kind of fan is it? The metal 5 blades are asymmetrical
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So is the 11. It’s just not as noticeable
 

socal k1500

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What kind of fan is it? The metal 5 blades are asymmetrical
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So is the 11. It’s just not as noticeable
its the second one with the plastic blades. I have no idea how long its been missing but i cant believe after all the work ive done to the truck in the last months i just now noticed it.
 
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