1997 K2500 Suburban 454 Fuel System suggestions

[454cid]

The PCM can be tuned for larger injectors, but again why do you want them? If you have a tick, don't be surprised if you ate a cam. Mine did and it's not that unusual in a big block.

Isn't it much more likely to be lifters?

 

[Supercharged111]

Isn't it much more likely to be lifters?

We're it a 350, I'd say yes. He'll know if he pulls the lifters. 454 lifters are $440 vs the small block at $120.

 

[L29Sub]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-900-16/make/chevrolet

And they can be found for less.
Keep in mind that if the roller is damaged, so is the cam. A leaking lifter with good roller can be replaced. A damaged roller kills the cam and no point in wasting time and bucks on simple repair. It'll soon enough eat the new lifter if cam is damaged. Check the rocker bolts first. If all tight, bummer. They would be a good stopping point. Gotta count the shekels and make a game plan. Is the truck worth going into? Do a compression check before dismantling anything. If you replace the lifters, they must be kept immaculate and the correct lube judiciously applied. Maybe some break-in lube too. Rollers aren't like flat tappers, but follow the instructions. If you pull any lifters and want to return them, don't mix up the bores. Keep them in a marked position container. Examine rollers for flat spots and side looseness or cracks. Check the body for galling. Toss any that fail this exam.
Don't intend negative vibes, but gotta try to avoid throwing good bucks at the thing and having a bad outcome.


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[ZRoe]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-900-16/make/chevrolet

And they can be found for less.
Keep in mind that if the roller is damaged, so is the cam. A leaking lifter with good roller can be replaced. A damaged roller kills the cam and no point in wasting time and bucks on simple repair. It'll soon enough eat the new lifter if cam is damaged. Check the rocker bolts first. If all tight, bummer. They would be a good stopping point. Gotta count the shekels and make a game plan. Is the truck worth going into? Do a compression check before dismantling anything. If you replace the lifters, they must be kept immaculate and the correct lube judiciously applied. Maybe some break-in lube too. Rollers aren't like flat tappers, but follow the instructions. If you pull any lifters and want to return them, don't mix up the bores. Keep them in a marked position container. Examine rollers for flat spots and side looseness or cracks. Check the body for galling. Toss any that fail this exam.
Don't intend negative vibes, but gotta try to avoid throwing good bucks at the thing and having a bad outcome.


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Thanks L29, I understand the sentiment of not throwing parts at a cheap fix only to have a critical failure later.
I was out of town on business yesterday so I did not get to pull the valve covers yet. I'm hoping to find a loose valve "adjustment"|hold-down bolt. If not it's probably a gummy lifter that bleeds down while the truck is off and takes a minute to pump up. The tick goes away once the oil pressure is up, which tells me it isn't a warm oil problem. I poured in some Risolone oil treatment hoping the snake oil would loosen it up and magically make my tick go way but it hadn't changed yet. This could mean it is indeed a loose hold down bolt or the lifter is beyond snake oil repair.

I appreciate all of the feedback!

As an FYI, I have posted in the 0411 swap section and in a 454 headers thread as well. I am feeling like I should compile some of my learning into a "build\maintenance" thread for my truck as some of my other findings are not a great fit here but are relevant in the fact that I'm doing them at the same time. Any suggestions on how to manage that for future readers?

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[L29Sub]

My thought is do both topics. And link them. Often a particular truck is interesting to follow. But posted the specific info under an accurate topic header makes searching much easier. Not sure how moderator feels about bandwidth?

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[ZRoe]

So as a quick follow up not to leave the thread hanging, I did snug up the hold down bolts and found one of them on the driver side (the side with the noise) was a bit loose.
Upon re-assembly of everything and start up it seems to have solved the problem. However after a couple of months I now have a cold start noise again which could be an exhaust manifold leak or a lifter actually going bad. Seeing all of the 454 rebuild threads due to lifters sure makes me nervous!
If only I had better internet at home I would have already started a build thread and maybe even a YouTube channel. Trouble is I am too lazy to edit my own footage.

Thanks again for all of the input!

 

[Supercharged111]

My advice is to fix it sooner than later. I fixed mine sooner and got away with just a cam. I rolled new bearings in as an insurance policy, but the old ones weren't as battered as I would have thought. Another member here was, recently, not so fortunate.