1995 ECSB issues

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xfactor001

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Here's the deal. I've got a 1995 ECSB 5 speed. The truck originally came with a 305, but the PO mentioned the motor may have been replaced, and its missing exhaust manifold bolts on opposite corners like they had pulled it. So I'm flying blind on that right now. When I got it the timing was way retarded. Set it back to 0° with the brown wire unplugged. Ran a bit smoother, but still had a miss at idle, which was 1100, and hesitates between idle-2500~.
I replaced the cap and rotor with the msd kit, has new Borg Warner plug wires, AC Delco platinums gapped to. 035", new fuel, and air filters, but still had the hesitation. Had a vacuum leak to the egr solenoid, so I replaced the line, and it ran smoother, and dropped the idle down to 900 warm.
The original owner had installed a Helix TB spacer, and I figured maybe the gasket was leaking, so I sprayed some starting fluid anywhere I could possibly have a leak, but it didn't change the idle at all. Replaced thethe spacer with the cfm tech spacer. I ran a vacuum test on the egr valve and solenoid, and tested the solenoids resistance between the terminals. Even tested the tps and iac and they all checked out I'm running 11.5lbs of fuel pressure.
Still has this damned hesitation. Runs great and has plenty of power after 2500rpm or so. I'm gonna check my plugs again on my week off next week. The only thing I didn't check is the map sensor. The vacuum line is stuck on there. Might try replacing it and run a vacuum test on the sensor itself. The other thing I was wondering is if they had put a 350 in it with the 305 throttle body and injectors, would that cause an issue? I noticed they triple stacked the injector pod gaskets. Think the o2 sensor would cause it with the slight exhaust leak? Any other test I should run?
Thanks in advance
-Chris
 

1997chevydriver

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If they put a 350 in a 305 truck without swapping the computers then yes you will have problems. Also are you sure the exhaust bolts are missing and are not broke flush with the head?
 

xfactor001

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If they put a 350 in a 305 truck without swapping the computers then yes you will have problems. Also are you sure the exhaust bolts are missing and are not broke flush with the head?

I'm coming up on my week off, so I'm gonna try getting the number off the back of the block to find out what it is exactly. Then I'm gonna check which injectors I have. Where can I compare the numbers for the ecu? There's a massive stockpile of gmt400s about 50the miles from me. Might see if I can rob an edu out. Should just be able to get the chip right? And it just looks like someone used the bolts to hoist the motor in and out but never put one back in. I'm missing one on the passenger front and drivers rear.
 

xfactor001

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Also, is there any other way to identify my injectors? Looks like all the paint is worn off one side, but I still have to check the other side closer to the firewall.
 

1997chevydriver

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I have no clue for the numbers to identify 350 or 305 ecu. And I don't know about the 350-305 injectors either except for the green/orange paint
 

xfactor001

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Well, I'm running 350 injectors and a 350 eprom thanks to Brian at tbichips. Runs better at idle and after about 2800rpm. But still wants to fall on its face and die between idle and 2800. Found a code 42. Any ideas?
 

xfactor001

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Just an update. Got an eprom from tbi chips for a 350, replaced the injectors with ones from a 350. Ran smoother, but still fell on its face. I plugged the vacuum lines to the egr valve, and oh boy. It was a whole different animal. Ran like a champ. So, I replaced the egr valve, and hooked the lines back up, and it still ran great. Well, I moved from Sidney, MT to Florence, MT and blew my transfer case up in 2wd somehow. Had it rebuilt, made a trip to and from oregon, and now it stumbles and dies on occasion. Kind of inconvenient when you're driving through downtown Missoula and can't get your truck to start back up.

Unplugged the egr valve again like before, and it still does it. Plugs look good, everything checks out. I heard from a guy I work with that if the voltage regulator starts letting DC voltage through, it messes with the ecu. And an alternator problem makes sense, considering on occasion my volt meter throws a fit and can't decide where it wants to be. Heading to Missoula in a couple weeks to try getting it back on the road

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