1994 C1500 Fleet Truck

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Erik the Awful

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Tuck that seal! So far I've bought 5 of the TYC taillights, and I'm going to buy two more for Roscoe. Also note that if you push your C3500 with your C1500, the bumpers might not match up correctly, leading to an odd number of taillight replacements.
 

454cid

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Tuck that seal! So far I've bought 5 of the TYC taillights, and I'm going to buy two more for Roscoe. Also note that if you push your C3500 with your C1500, the bumpers might not match up correctly, leading to an odd number of taillight replacements.

I'm not sure what you mean by tuck the seal. Fold it back so that it doesn't stick out?
 

Erik the Awful

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You have to squish the top of the seal down and the bottom of the seal up to squeeze the taillight into place. If one of the seals hangs up on the body work and you push on the taillight to try and force it into place, it'll break the corner off the lens. It doesn't take very much force to break it.
 

fancyTBI

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The earlier model V-8 drivers side manifolds had a single wire O2 sensor on the drivers side. When they moved the O2 sensor the put a 3 wire heated O2 sensor on the y-pipe in front of the cat. in 1996 the vortec engines used dual cats with four 4-wire monitored o2 sensors. Word of caution, if there is a problem with the heater on the 3 wire sensor or it's heater wiring you will not get a check engine light and the truck will run find while using it, but at idle with will start to surge because the sensor will cool. I know this because I dropped an older engine with the O2 on the manifold in a 1995 that had the 3 wire originally. Years later I put headers, and 1995 y-pipe and converter back on it and it started surging. I found the pin for the heater had corroded and it was not heating up enough and would surge. If i revved it up the exhaust would heat the sensor up and it would drive fine until I sat at idle long enough to lose the heat. Check for full 12 volts at one of the pins and watch for corrosion in the connector if it was unplugged for long. But then again might not be an issue in TX.
This has me wondering.. my ‘95 C2500 has the O2 sensor in the Y pipe but is only 1 wire. Is this because it is an 8600GVWR truck? I have to check my ‘92 C1500 to see if it is 3 or not. The O2 is on the Y pipe on that as well.
 

skylark

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This has me wondering.. my ‘95 C2500 has the O2 sensor in the Y pipe but is only 1 wire. Is this because it is an 8600GVWR truck? I have to check my ‘92 C1500 to see if it is 3 or not. The O2 is on the Y pipe on that as well.
I personally haven't seen a factory installed heated O2 sensor on a TBI.
 

Erik the Awful

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I went ahead and bought an O2 sensor for $40 from O'Reilly even though I have one coming in the pile of parts from RockAuto. I really like RockAuto, but I ordered the parts on Friday and as of today DHL still doesn't have shipping info and I'm being estimated they'll arrive next Tuesday. Ugh.

I got the O2 sensor in, cleaned the plugs and reinstalled them, and fired it up. It's dog slow and was pinging on throttle tip-in. I adjusted the timing, and with it not pinging it won't go over 30 mph. It drives okay with pinging. The compression is good, but I think the engine is carboned up. Remember, it lived its life on a college campus, never doing more than 30 mph. With more timing it runs fine once it gets going. I need to put some of the BG Engine Cleaner I've been hoarding in the gas tank.

The brakes are pretty good as far as JB5 goes, but they do need a little adjusting.

I'm going to install a kill switch, but I realized all the switches I have are 10a or less, and the key power goes straight to the starter solenoid. If these trucks used a starter relay I wouldn't even think twice about using a 5a switch. A 30a switch has been ordered.
 
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