“CrewCad” Resto /Newstalgia 95 c3500 454 CCLB Dually thread.

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Onizukachan

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Re worked the caddy tails.


never liked the park turn park turn park layout From the PO.
looked… empty. Cheap even (and after reworking it, can confirm it was)


decoded to go turn turn, park park park which involved cutting the glued on led bulbs free, swapping around, regluing, then cutt8ng the harness and sockets apart and soldering them back together the other way to match.
but it is Finally done.


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Onizukachan

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I’m still finding extra wires, figuring out what add on wires are for , rerouting and removing them etc, but here is where we were at last night. I wire wheeled and por 15 the surface rust, amd have just been on the whole wiring and reinstalling everything with better routing etc all day today, plus trying to get my 4th door solenoid out so I can replace or hopefully repair it and have all 4 popping again.

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someotherguy

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Texas doesn’t care about cracks, and frankly this One being vertical isn’t negatively affecting my vision so not an immediate concern.
Selective enforcement. I recall being harassed for this stuff even way back in the 90's being pulled over in my '65 custom cab longbed because the cop could see the crack in the windshield from behind! I think really he just wanted to mess with the longhair kid (me) and possibly embarrass me in front of my "girl" (who happened to be my aunt) riding with me. Some Houston cops are.. something else

36 came back. Ugh. I still feel like it has to be something with the iAC Though, not detecting any leak below the tbi gasket when aerosol sprayed around it.
I suppose it could be MAF, I’ve seen websites refer to both IAC and MAF as causes.

Went and looked. Solenoid is missing Completely. So yeah, gonna get an error 36 for that!

Yep.. and just for the record although it appears you have it figured out, the TBI doesn't use a MAF so that code description wouldn't apply to you.

Richard
 

Onizukachan

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Still finding more house wire used for stuff, lol. Almost got dash ready to tilt forward so I can paint it in situ, then it will be time to start painting the rest of the pieces and reinstalling stuff.

Hooked up the Denali center console to my home theatre sub output last night, was about 3-5db lower in volume than my 10” Yamaha and as I suspected it plays effectively only down to 45-50 till it rolls off severely… but as a result I’ve decided to replace these Walmart amps and the dual skar 10 truck box with something better… so I won’t be reinstalling the amps under the seats nor the box behind it. Will just have to roll sans tunes for a few days till the new amps come in and can get installed.
 

Onizukachan

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Finally finished removing all the extraneous wiring, re routed the wiring I’m keeping (alarm, two speed controller, cameras I previously installed, RCAs etc) to safer more tucked away locations.

Ran the wiring for the Esky/Denali console (power/ground/sub) using a 4 pin weatherpack connector, and fabric tape wrapped it to look Semi OEM. Also added a 5mm LED to the factory console location which will be connected to the Avital alarm, but didn’t do the connector yet on truck side as I have to figure out polarity.

Ran the wiring for the Compass/Temp mirror, ran my temp sensor wiring out to the firewall and installed a 2 pin weather proof connector and fabric wrapped it for when I do finally acquire one and install it.

found the OEM rear speaker harness tucked away, decided to reuse it as my power and ground leads for the power bucket seats by clipping it up in the kick panel.

removed the drivers rear door solenoid completely and finaly got it work, the rest un sticked with just spraying wd 40 on them, this onei had to remove and put a wrench on to get the plunger to break free and then i flushed all the dirt out with WD40 while working it back and forth.


Floor is white so I put passenger seat in situ and since I was going to paint the brackets black anyway, I painted them in situ so it would leave me the 4th hole I needed clearly marked tomorrow on the floor to be drilled out. Will do same on drivers side for it’s 4th hole location.

And I painted the dash 3 coats as daylight faded and will double check it tomorrow Am.

after the 2 missing bolt holes are drilled, I will be ready to install carpet and finish painting the interior trims as I reinstall them amd get it back on the road.

oh, and I installed the idle air solenoid for the idle kicker and confirmed it works.

all in all was a busy day, despite the windy and freezing weather… I stuck a space heater in with an extension cord thru a gap in the window to be able to do anything the last two days!
 

Onizukachan

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Vacation over, trucks still in pieces…

had to spend half day Saturday cleanin* the yard as I promised the wife, and all day Sunday on a trip to Carlsbad caverns, but I got a few small things done before dark yesterday.
A few trim items painted, holes drilled, wiring starting to get stuck down So I can lay carpet in. Few more wires to finish taping down, and I can start reassembly.

yes, I know the brackets were black originally on the ashtray bit, but I didn’t like it black and color matched it.
also modded the light slit to an actual hole to get more light out and added a 4 pin aux port so I can play videos/ videogames to the head unit, or iPod audio, or plug the dsp microphone in for tuning.

I don’t like having open cigarette lighters (does a penny fit? Does a dime? Let’s see! ) so I used the remnants of one from the old town and country console I salvaged to correct that for now, until I find a 3rd matching power port to replace the lighter socket.

enough babbling, on to the pics.

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Onizukachan

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Almost done, just have to finish a couple wires when it is light out, aux in up to the radio cubby, and drop the USB cable back down again.

front door panels will have to wait till tweeter install completed. one rear done, the other I have to spray later in the am.
for now I need 1/2 hour sleep before I take daughter to school, lol.

Preview: One color changed Escalade dash bezel.

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Onizukachan

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It’s back together and running, with almost everything working. But my lighting for the console isn’t. Will check it tomorrow. Edit: thinking about it, I suspect I accidentally pulled the wire out of the screwed down ground connector when I installed the repainted trim panels last night amd this am.

installed the 96+ hvac controller with adapter harness, made a small trim with DreMel in dash as having it apart in the daytime I could se about 2mm of left rear head unit corner wasnt clearing the box opening the hvac controls come out of. A coulee mm ground down and got the the head unit to slide back a bit farther as well As sit even to the bezel.


tried new mode door actuator (4 pin) but still no response. Noted the connector is only 3 pin populated… is that correct?

looks like 2 pins, space, last pin.

pic to hold y’all over to the weekend.

front doors will get painted when I finish getting Morel tweeters installed and blended in, and get more SEM paint!

iMO it really brightened the interior up despite the black carpet. Especially with the RGB domes and under dash courtesy lamps set to turquoise/”ice blue” /aqua color.


left armrests the darker original brown as an accent color on the panel.
had tried lower section black, and while I liked it standalone… ie uninstalled panel, the lack of coherence between b pillar trim and door sash in light neutral then black lower door didn’t work for me so it went back to “new Escalade” color.
 

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Onizukachan

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As you may have read, I decided to ditch the low end pioneer and kenwood amps that were mounted to the floor under back seat, and the dual 10” sealed sub box with Skar subs that couldn’t play below 40hz in favor of something different. basically all that is left at this point from PO is the skar 4x6s and some monster brand RCA which are fine. I’ve removed or replaced everything else Audio wise. Shoot, I spent two days back tracking add on wiring and either removing it at source, or rerouting it properly and safely So it isn’t an entanglement hazard for my feet. Everything is now correct and wired correctly And 30 years of hacks undone.

I’m going to be running the 4 cab speakers and the denali sub off a Memphis PRXA700.5, and I have a matching Memphis PRXA1500.1 for a single future rear 12”. So I need to build an amprack that stacks them on one side leaving as much room as possible for a future sealed enclosure with an IDQ12. Those like about 1.5-2.0 cubes, though they can get by with less.

I plan on playing the 12 from 20-55 ish and letting the denali sub play from 50hz to about 80-100 for upfront bass.
this both a 5 channel and monoblock sub amp.

these amps are all “bottom feed” for connections, so sides and top edge are unencumbered by wiring, and they are identical sizing so if I ever needed to stack them with a rack style amp rack it would be easily to do. The controls are in the face of the amp, not a side So unless I went back to using a Hertz DSP for tuning that would not work well.

for now, since I have no tunes except my phone speaker, I will build a simple rear wall rack on rear drivers side, since my teen son sits on that side and my kinder daughter on passenger side rear can more easily afford to have more upright seat or farther forward Seating for sub box clearance if needed.


Went just now to Lowes to get a 2x2 x 1/2 birch plywood board board to make an amp rack, grabbed a 2x2 square poplar “dowel“ to use as a spacer for bottom amp So it sits out farther, letting me run all the wiring behind the bottom amp. Any way something very simple and cost effective, while hopefully not looking like total booty.


no interior pics other than the above, I was more concentrated on getting done than documenting.

will try to take some this weekend when I go to the C10 meetup/cruise, or to the Detail Garage Rides amd Coffee this Sunday.

but it really is night and day. Makes me want cream, buttermilk , light neutral seatbelts too. Or chocolate brown to match The seats.
 
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