Onizukachan
Great Teacher
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“CrewCad” Resto /Newstalgia 95 c3500 454 CCLB Dually thread.
- Thread starter Onizukachan
- Start date
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Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Finally done.
now to figure out why the ac fan no longer runs consistently, when it runs it’s great and cold then it shuts off For an indeterminate time then come back when it wants, now that it’s in the 70s need to get that cleared up asap Cause I need the ac to work reliably!
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now to figure out why the ac fan no longer runs consistently, when it runs it’s great and cold then it shuts off For an indeterminate time then come back when it wants, now that it’s in the 70s need to get that cleared up asap Cause I need the ac to work reliably!
HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
Could be the motor is going out, and it's building resistance and heat, so something is shutting it off till it cools down? I'm not exactly sure how everything works in the 400 HVAC system.....
Onizukachan
Great Teacher
I’m reading some old threads here about bad grounds or bad high speed relay at present.
HotWheelsBurban
Gotta have 4 doors..... Rawhide, TOTY 2023!
When our other '99 Burb had blower function problems, we replaced the motor, resistor and eventually the dash switch panel. Went through 3 before we got a good one....
That switch was still working when the truck got wrecked and totalled. We pulled it, along with the radio head unit and CD player, and they're going in the current Burb once I get working on the dash in it(dash is in pieces and half held together by duct tape, so I really need to replace the whole thing.
I've not had any more trouble with the blower motor in Rawhide, but when we use the heater or AC, I keep it on the lower speeds. The motor is a bit noisy so I probably will replace it in the near future.
Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Ordered the iqq12v4 d4 and another set of morels so I can finish the drivers door and paint them both, haven’t check why my console lighting isn’t working yet though.
Also got a new ac delco resistor and fan to install today… so of course now the old ones suddenly work perfectly.
Still have to clean garage back up today and get tools put away from all I’ve done over spring break as well.
Also got a new ac delco resistor and fan to install today… so of course now the old ones suddenly work perfectly.
Still have to clean garage back up today and get tools put away from all I’ve done over spring break as well.
Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Figured out the console issue, I wired the truck side connector with opposite polarity. got that fixed.
Can say that would have honestly been better off to run a couple 3mm directly into the cup holders vs the edgelit fiber I did, for anyone thinking of illuminated cup holders in the future. But it was worth a shot. The illuminated console cubby seems to work out decently though.
ordered some eBay door handles with chrome pulls and tan backs since mine are a mix of colors at present
got my new set of morels in some body filler for blending, etc so I can finally finish the front stage and when the SEM paint comes in finish the interior.
iDQ12 arrived. So dang pretty. Have wanted one for about 3 decades and I finally own one. I’ve owned some great amps, water cooled Art, a/d/s, Rodek, etc but never had the space to run an idq before.
will be running it as a 2 ohm load on the 1500.1 so a solid 750 watts to get the best out of it.
might stick the skar dual 10 box back in just until I can get a custom 1.8cube sealed box built For the idq12so I can try them out with some decent power, instead of the POs 60x2 kenwood. we will see how much of what I’d like to doactually gets done tomorrow.
Can say that would have honestly been better off to run a couple 3mm directly into the cup holders vs the edgelit fiber I did, for anyone thinking of illuminated cup holders in the future. But it was worth a shot. The illuminated console cubby seems to work out decently though.
ordered some eBay door handles with chrome pulls and tan backs since mine are a mix of colors at present
got my new set of morels in some body filler for blending, etc so I can finally finish the front stage and when the SEM paint comes in finish the interior.
iDQ12 arrived. So dang pretty. Have wanted one for about 3 decades and I finally own one. I’ve owned some great amps, water cooled Art, a/d/s, Rodek, etc but never had the space to run an idq before.
will be running it as a 2 ohm load on the 1500.1 so a solid 750 watts to get the best out of it.
might stick the skar dual 10 box back in just until I can get a custom 1.8cube sealed box built For the idq12so I can try them out with some decent power, instead of the POs 60x2 kenwood. we will see how much of what I’d like to doactually gets done tomorrow.
Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Got the other morel in, but didn’t get a chance to do any blending with the bondo. However since it was in I was able to turn the gains up and play with the xovers and get it more dialed in.
finally changed the eq off flat, only needed a couple db boost at 125 & 250 to help doors with lower midrange, sand had to turn down the tweeters at 12.5k a couple db since they are mounted on axis.
I haven’t seen anyone mount tweeters like this in a facelift OBS door panel, but I highly recommend it. Good width and stage height already before doing any dsp tuning.
Drilled my hole, shaved it out for final fit with sanding drum on DreMel, as well as a slight sculpting of back of tweeter ring. Locked in with cyano, then most of gap filled with 5minute epoxy, (wait about 3 minutes till it starts to thicken and set before applying) top and bottom so don’t have to use so much bondo for final shaping.
Edit: forgot to point out, it’s not staying black, the surround will be sprayed with the door panel and the mesh overlay (not installed) will be sprayed also door color so they should pretty much disappear and look OEMish for those that don’t know.
finally changed the eq off flat, only needed a couple db boost at 125 & 250 to help doors with lower midrange, sand had to turn down the tweeters at 12.5k a couple db since they are mounted on axis.
I haven’t seen anyone mount tweeters like this in a facelift OBS door panel, but I highly recommend it. Good width and stage height already before doing any dsp tuning.
Drilled my hole, shaved it out for final fit with sanding drum on DreMel, as well as a slight sculpting of back of tweeter ring. Locked in with cyano, then most of gap filled with 5minute epoxy, (wait about 3 minutes till it starts to thicken and set before applying) top and bottom so don’t have to use so much bondo for final shaping.
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Edit: forgot to point out, it’s not staying black, the surround will be sprayed with the door panel and the mesh overlay (not installed) will be sprayed also door color so they should pretty much disappear and look OEMish for those that don’t know.
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Onizukachan
Great Teacher
I have a properly working blower again!
Swapped blower, cut back the bad ground wire amd terminal to it and attached a few inches of 12ga speaker wire with a new terminal. some PO hadn’t properly attached the ground tab to the smallest hole using a small self tapper and had just stacked it on a holding screw.
now Seemed fine for a minute on three lowest settings, then shut down again when I went to high... But something was different because controls didn’t light up with illumination off whereas they were doing so before when fan was on in any position.
combine the two and we had a ground issue before, now resolved.
what else could cause this? Bad grounds = more current and heat.
started shaking the wiring under the dash behind the glovebox and figured out I had something not right cause it would cut on and off… Ah ha!
found this two wire connector tucked in with another connector in some foam and it looked ok but obviously wasn’t. Wiggling it in out, side side would start and kill fan.
figure it got hot enough that it melted the connector inside amd thus wasn’t holding the male female connections tightly to make good connections.
so I cut it out and butt spliced the two wires together permanently. Also added some dielectric grease inside the splices and worked it into the wire strands to hopefully take care of the issue permanently.
pic of the culprit:
(sorry, I have rgb glovebox light, wire colors are actually black and red)
now with that fixed I shall have to try the installing the mode selector motor again and see if fixing the ground issue fixed it as well Since it’s really just your standard 3 wire servo with power ground and ground reference signal (variable voltage)
Swapped blower, cut back the bad ground wire amd terminal to it and attached a few inches of 12ga speaker wire with a new terminal. some PO hadn’t properly attached the ground tab to the smallest hole using a small self tapper and had just stacked it on a holding screw.
now Seemed fine for a minute on three lowest settings, then shut down again when I went to high... But something was different because controls didn’t light up with illumination off whereas they were doing so before when fan was on in any position.
combine the two and we had a ground issue before, now resolved.
what else could cause this? Bad grounds = more current and heat.
started shaking the wiring under the dash behind the glovebox and figured out I had something not right cause it would cut on and off… Ah ha!
found this two wire connector tucked in with another connector in some foam and it looked ok but obviously wasn’t. Wiggling it in out, side side would start and kill fan.
figure it got hot enough that it melted the connector inside amd thus wasn’t holding the male female connections tightly to make good connections.
so I cut it out and butt spliced the two wires together permanently. Also added some dielectric grease inside the splices and worked it into the wire strands to hopefully take care of the issue permanently.
pic of the culprit:
(sorry, I have rgb glovebox light, wire colors are actually black and red)
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now with that fixed I shall have to try the installing the mode selector motor again and see if fixing the ground issue fixed it as well Since it’s really just your standard 3 wire servo with power ground and ground reference signal (variable voltage)
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Onizukachan
Great Teacher
Two steps forward one step back.
was installing the new inner door handles today when I started smelling electrical/magic smoke From the under dash and both rear doors.
Expletives were uttered.
the way they had it set up, was one relay drivers, one relay passenger, one relay BOTH rear doors.
after getting ground removed amd confirming solenoids we’re cooled down to below 212F via the handy dandy water hose, I tried recon ground and heard an immediate click form a solenoid.
remove lower dash panel to gain access to relays ,and it was very clear which one of the three it was.
It was the one that had melted/burned all the insulation off the wire, and whose socket was visibly melted and distorted.
removed that relay and now could recon power Without immediate solenoid actuation.
Moved a good relay in temporarily, and despite the charred plastic and burned off insulation, the damn thing still worked!
apparently that relay stuck on and was feeding current nonstop to the solenoids, which smoked the relay pigtail and dang near smoked the solenoids.
so tomorrow I’m patching in a new relay pigtail, amd I’m going to try to set the rear doors up this time on two different relays off the same trigger, as apparently two solenoids is too much load long term for relays.
I did get door panels off all around and new inner handles (tan with chrome pulls) installed, then it was off to my wife’s B-day party at her sister s house… but we took her Atlas instead of a CrewCad.
Now that I know exactly what it is and have it pulled apart what it is, it’s just a matter of repacing the socket amd preferably going to two sockets and relays tomorrow when it is light.
once we got home I got out ye olde Bondo and layEd on my first coat around the tweeter mounts to blend them in. Roughed the shape with dremel and sanding drum, then wet sanded, then let dry for a while. Came back, did a second skim coat, and repeated process, except wet sanded till smooth to touch this time.
they will be ready to paint tomorrow so I can finally get them back in.
was installing the new inner door handles today when I started smelling electrical/magic smoke From the under dash and both rear doors.
Expletives were uttered.
the way they had it set up, was one relay drivers, one relay passenger, one relay BOTH rear doors.
after getting ground removed amd confirming solenoids we’re cooled down to below 212F via the handy dandy water hose, I tried recon ground and heard an immediate click form a solenoid.
remove lower dash panel to gain access to relays ,and it was very clear which one of the three it was.
It was the one that had melted/burned all the insulation off the wire, and whose socket was visibly melted and distorted.
removed that relay and now could recon power Without immediate solenoid actuation.
Moved a good relay in temporarily, and despite the charred plastic and burned off insulation, the damn thing still worked!
apparently that relay stuck on and was feeding current nonstop to the solenoids, which smoked the relay pigtail and dang near smoked the solenoids.
so tomorrow I’m patching in a new relay pigtail, amd I’m going to try to set the rear doors up this time on two different relays off the same trigger, as apparently two solenoids is too much load long term for relays.
I did get door panels off all around and new inner handles (tan with chrome pulls) installed, then it was off to my wife’s B-day party at her sister s house… but we took her Atlas instead of a CrewCad.
Now that I know exactly what it is and have it pulled apart what it is, it’s just a matter of repacing the socket amd preferably going to two sockets and relays tomorrow when it is light.
once we got home I got out ye olde Bondo and layEd on my first coat around the tweeter mounts to blend them in. Roughed the shape with dremel and sanding drum, then wet sanded, then let dry for a while. Came back, did a second skim coat, and repeated process, except wet sanded till smooth to touch this time.
they will be ready to paint tomorrow so I can finally get them back in.
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