Chasing down cyl. 2 misfire (P0302)

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alvaroemg

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It's a healthy motor , have you diagnose the ignition coil?
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Throw some fuel injector cleaning hopefully the spider injectors aren't clogged . I had a weird misfire for a whole year couldn't figure it out even to it to the dealership to diagnose it would magically disappear. Eventually it just went away
Ignition coil is new as of 1 yr ago.. it died out of nowhere as i pulled into my drive way. Literally 3 minutes later I came out the house and truck didn’t want to start again. Purchased one from Oreilly and the ignition control module from ebay “herko lx381” 1 year ago last month. I keep receipts for everything for this truck.

Just got my scan tool and purchased dash command.

CMP Retard was -2.7*

With the help of the wifey i got it to 0.1*

cleared codes, going for a drive now to see what pops up on the cel this time.

What info do you guys want to see for o2 sensors? I can also see misfires
 

alvaroemg

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After adjusting the CMPRetard I cleared the codes and it was idling pretty smooth. Took a ride down the freeway, cel came on. Got to my destination and misfire count on cyl 2 is through the roof.
 

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alvaroemg

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at idle and between 1100-1200 rpms, cmp retard is 0*. When driving at highway speeds , it goes back up to -4.6 as per the photo attached. Is that normal?
Maybe thats whats causing my misfires, it started with cyl 1 followed by 2 once i hit maybe 55-65mph
 

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alvaroemg

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New plugs installed gapped at .045. Truck misfires while cold on a few cylinders on idel 1,2,3. Once warm, misfire secedes a bit and becomes more stable on idle, but still has misses
 
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Road Trip

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After adjusting the CMPRetard I cleared the codes and it was idling pretty smooth. Took a ride down the freeway, cel came on. Got to my destination and misfire count on cyl 2 is through the roof.

Hmmm. Looking at the display, it shows 2590 misfires for #2 cylinder, but -0- for the #4 cylinder?
But back in reply #17, the #2 plug looked OK, but the #4 has the signs of oiling on it?

I would be interested to see the difference in 3 spark plugs at this time:

* #2
* #4
* known good control spark plug (ie: cylinder that never misfires)

From here I'm going to guess that the #4 spark plug will still be showing signs
of oiling leading to misfiring. And that the #2 plug looks good? And hopefully
the known-good plug is clean and coloring to the good.

If this is what you find, then given that the engine seems to run well until the
newly installed plug is fouled, then this shows that your engine can run smoothly.
But at the same time in order to fix this problem we have to locate/stop the
excess oil from wherever it is coming from? (Drawing oil from lifter valley due
to intake manifold gasket leak? Or damaged intake valve stem seal?)

****

NOTE: Assuming that the fouled #4 plug is causing the misfires, I don't have a
ready explanation for why your scan tool assigned the misfires to the #2 cylinder?

But normally the closer you get to the combustion chamber the more accurate the data,
so I'd tend to believe a spark plug pulled directly from the chamber vs the scan tool interpreting
what the ECM has logged? Just from experience, this wouldn't be the first time that a piece
of test equipment has tried to misdirect me. :0)

at idle and between 1100-1200 rpms, cmp retard is 0*. When driving at highway speeds , it goes back up to -4.6 as per the photo attached. Is that normal?
Maybe thats whats causing my misfires, it started with cyl 1 followed by 2 once i hit maybe 55-65mph

The distributor at the back of the engine falling behind the front of the crankshaft
is no doubt due to wear in one of the following places:

* Timing chain stretch
* knife-edge wear of the distributor shaft driven gear
* Excess wear between distributor housing bushing & distributor shaft.

Having said all that, I do not believe that a 5° variance of the cmp retard between
idle and highway speeds will affect how your engine runs. Since the actual spark
base timing is derived directly from the CKP sensor at the front of the crank, the
only real difference is a 2.5° (distributor, 5° crank) difference in the angle between
the rotor and the intended spark plug terminal in the cap.

And if we think that this extra 5° is going to result in a misfire, then it should affect all 8
cylinders, instead of just 1. In other words, if we were to spend a lot of time/parts/effort
in eliminating this reading at highway speeds I don't think that it would fix this
fouling/misfire of the one suspect cylinder.

If I'm following your situation correctly, you will be away at the job for the next few days.
When you get a chance I'd like you to recheck the plugs mentioned above, and let us
know what you find.

Fingers crossed we can get the problem cylinder to quit fouling the plug, especially given
the really good compression test you posted. Too much is good under the hood to
not be able to get this running on all 8. (!)

Looking forward to your next status report.
 
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alvaroemg

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Hmmm. Looking at the display, it shows 2590 misfires for #2 cylinder, but -0- for the #4 cylinder?
But back in reply #17, the #2 plug looked OK, but the #4 has the signs of oiling on it?

I would be interested to see the difference in 3 spark plugs at this time:

* #2
* #4
* known good control spark plug (ie: cylinder that never misfires)

From here I'm going to guess that the #4 spark plug will still be showing signs
of oiling leading to misfiring. And that the #2 plug looks good? And hopefully
the known-good plug is clean and coloring to the good.

If this is what you find, then given that the engine seems to run well until the
newly installed plug is fouled, then this shows that your engine can run smoothly.
But at the same time in order to fix this problem we have to locate/stop the
excess oil from wherever it is coming from? (Drawing oil from lifter valley due
to intake manifold gasket leak? Or damaged intake valve stem seal?)

****

NOTE: Assuming that the fouled #4 plug is causing the misfires, I don't have a
ready explanation for why it assigned the misfires to the #2 cylinder? But normally
the closer you get to the combustion chamber the more accurate the data, so I'd
tend to believe a spark plug pulled directly from the chamber vs the scan tool interpreting
the ECM data. Just from experience, this wouldn't be the first time that a piece
of test equipment has misdirected me. :0)



The distributor at the back of the engine falling behind the front of the crankshaft
is no doubt due to wear in one of the following places:

* Timing chain stretch
* knife-edge wear of the distributor shaft driven gear
* Excess wear between distributor housing bushing & distributor shaft.

Having said all that, I do not believe that a 5° variance of the cmp retard between
idle and highway speeds will affect how your engine runs. Since the actual spark
base timing is derived directly from the CPK sensor at the front of the crank, the
only real difference is a 2.5° (distributor, 5° crank) difference in the angle between
the rotor and the intended spark plug terminal in the cap.

And if we think that this is going to result in a misfire, then it should affect all 8
cylinders, instead of just 1. In other words, if we were to spend a lot of time/parts/effort
in eliminating this reading at highway speeds I don't think that it would fix this
fouling/misfire of the one suspect cylinder.

If I'm following your situation correctly, you will be away at the job for the next few days.
When you get a chance I'd like you to recheck the plugs mentioned above, and let us
know what you find.

Fingers crossed we can get the problem cylinder to quit fouling the plug, especially given
the really good compression test you posted. Too much is good under the hood to
not be able to get this running on all 8. (!)

Looking forward to your next status report.
Our job site got flooded by the rain in Salinas, CA so we are off that job I believe for an extra week. ATM, I'm commuting to work every day, 120 miles/ day.

The truck misfired less on the double platinum plugs gapped at 0.60 as per my picture on post #63, I actually forgot to upload the current picture of the misses after the new SP gapped at 0.45 on post #64. Cyl 3 missed a lot more together with cyl 2 on the new plugs, compared to the old plugs. Also cyl 1 was missing some on idling on the new sps.


I will check the SPs tomorrow after work, should be home by 5ish, short day.
 

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alvaroemg

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On a side note, i took my kids to the movies this weekend and came across these
 

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termite

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Our job site got flooded by the rain in Salinas, CA so we are off that job I believe for an extra week. ATM, I'm commuting to work every day, 120 miles/ day.

The truck misfired less on the double platinum plugs gapped at 0.60 as per my picture on post #63, I actually forgot to upload the current picture of the misses after the new SP gapped at 0.45 on post #64. Cyl 3 missed a lot more together with cyl 2 on the new plugs, compared to the old plugs. Also cyl 1 was missing some on idling on the new sps.


I will check the SPs tomorrow after work, should be home by 5ish, short day.
One other point I haven't seen mentioned, check the porcelain on the plugs for cracks. I'm not saying I've done it, or haven't done it, but cracked porcelain can induce a misfire as well.
 

alvaroemg

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My truck don’t consume
Hi @alvaroemg,

That plug is showing a significant fouling in a short period of time.
How many miles per quart of oil are you currently using?
My truck doesn't burn oil and if it does its barely anything noticeable. It's got a leak at the timing cover and oil pan seal(I didn't know how much gasket maker to add. I tried to patch it from the outside but the leak is still there.)

Timing chain is new together with the sprockets, changed at the time of the head replacement, as well as water pump.

Past history of the truck I am not sure. I got it with the term "It's a good running truck and it's worth about $2,500. I changed the heads almost 2 months after I started using it. Previous owner had poured some head gasket fix down the radiator. I only know this because my rear heater core lines were clogged(no heat in the rear in plain winter and kids would always complain)

Once unclogged, I flushed all the coolant and I'm thinking that did something to the "fix" on the heads and it started smoking a few days later.
 
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