Is my 5.7 4-bolt main?

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Crazydavez28

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Well, I threw a battery in it and put the wires back on. Seems to have a timing issue BC it started then ran terrible for 10 seconds with a horrific knock. I could not get it to run any more than starting and 1 second sputtering after the initial running.

I'm guessing the kid was starting to remove the engine BC he broke the heater hose manifold going to the rear heat. Also the distributor was loose so I might have to reset it a couple teeth... Strangest thing was that the fuel pump relay was missing very odd to remove that even as a prank.

My goal at the moment is to get it running long enough to get it off the trailer and test all the 4wd stuff. Then I plan on parking it under my cherry picker in the shop. Gonna drain oil and stick the scope in the drain hole.

Do these have the windage tray? I haven't torn one down in years.

If it isn't 4-bolt I'll just build up a long block before yanking it. If it is 4-bolt I'll yank it and build that block if it looks good.
 

JackE

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I haven't looked real hard at this, but it seems to me like the only 2 bolt I have dealt with in the 1/2 ton 350 was a 2x4. All of the 1/2 ton 4x4 350's I have been in were 4 bolt.
 

Schurkey

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It may be a case of what was on hand.
I'm sure that's exactly the reason.

Do these have the windage tray? I haven't torn one down in years.
My '96 and 98 Vortec has the same pan and tray as my service-replacement '91--'94 Caprice engine, except the Caprice pan has a threaded boss for an oil-level sensor. The '98 has four-bolt mains, and all the drilled passages for an engine-driven fuel pump. I don't know the history of it.

I haven't looked real hard at this, but it seems to me like the only 2 bolt I have dealt with in the 1/2 ton 350 was a 2x4. All of the 1/2 ton 4x4 350's I have been in were 4 bolt.
My '88 K1500 had two-bolt mains, the '96 Vortec came from a K1500 and also is a two-bolt.

unplug the relay and the fuel pump has no power.
Not what I'd expect. I thought the oil pressure switch was powered from another source. At least, I'm sure that's how my '88 is wired.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Not at all... unplug the relay and the fuel pump has no power.

Not on my old G20 Van, my Express van or my 99 Tahoe. The fuel pump runs as long as the engine has oil pressure even if you remove the fuel pump relay. The relay and oil pressure switch are wired in parallel to each other.
 

Crazydavez28

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No idea on the block question. How does the rest of the existing engine look? Would it take much to put it back together... wires, and distributor? I think I'd try to put it back together and maybe do a little trouble shooting... it could be the kid has no clue. 106K miles isn't much. My dad sold his old 96 with over 280K, and it still ran fine.

I had a little time this morning waiting on the frost to melt off my truck. Adjusted the distributor a little and it wouldn't run, adjusted it the other way and she fired up and idled. It has a weird inconsistent sound, like a clattering, coming from the engine. Not a deep knock sound, I've heard that before and it never quits. It gets worse when you rev it and let off. It is loudest on the decel. Gonna try to back it off the trailer tonight and jb weld the broken heater manifold. More to come..
 

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I'm rebuilding a '96 Vortec short-block to go into my '88 K1500. This 96 engine got pulled due to a "rod knock". When the guy got the engine lifted out, he saw that the flexplate was cracked in a rough, irregular 360-degree circle around the flywheel bolts. The heads got sold to someone else, I bought just the short-block.

The entire bolt circle of the flexplate was separated from the main part, but the crack was so irregular that the center didn't just fall out. I could wiggle it back and forth, but not remove it.

Frankly, that's what I was hoping was wrong with the knocking engine in my '88.
 
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