1991 C1500 in Florida

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95OBSMan

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Love the exhaust video!!! Thank you!! It sounds awesome!!!

Always love the gauge pods, and the color for the back lighting, gives it just enough attitude for the interior!!!
So I decided that since my favorite EZ Pull treasure yard was open today, that is where I went.
Love the pic-a-part yards, sounds like you did well on the parts you where after, love it when a plan comes together:headbang:

Its looking great, love the stepsides, just something about them, the stances on yours is spot on!!!:cool:
 

FLGS400

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Love the exhaust video!!! Thank you!! It sounds awesome!!!

Always love the gauge pods, and the color for the back lighting, gives it just enough attitude for the interior!!!
Love the pic-a-part yards, sounds like you did well on the parts you where after, love it when a plan comes together:headbang:

Its looking great, love the stepsides, just something about them, the stances on yours is spot on!!!:cool:
Thank you!

Fortunately, here in Florida, the trucks are pretty faded out, but rust isn't a huge issue underneath. Most of the trucks I found out there are in better shape than a lot I've seen on the road! :oops:
 
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FLGS400

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I like the consistent progress!

Thanks Sean! I learned from someone on V8BUICK to try to do something with a project every day, even if it's a little thing. Not that I can make that happen all the time, but it does keep me pretty motivated.

Plus, I wanna drive it as much as possible!
 

FLGS400

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So, I finally got back to working on the truck this week, after a 3-week hiatus. Before I left on my trip to Bowling Green for the Buick GS Nationals, I installed the adapter fitting for the temperature gauge probe, using the Loctite thread sealer that 95OBSMan suggested in another thread. That way it had plenty of time to cure.

Sunday, I installed the probe for the gauge, replaced the 3/4" heater hose (radiator to core), and filled it up with antifreeze/distilled water mix. There were some pretty big chunks of rust in the radiator fitting for the heater hose, and I should have known to stop there... then fired the truck up and let it warm up.

The good news is that the temperature gauge works and doesn't seem to be leaking at the head. The bad news is that the temperature got up to 240 degrees and and climbing, so I shut it down. It didn't make any funny noises or blowing off any steam. The engine block and manifold were pretty hot. From the fan shroud forward everything was cold (used an IR temp gun on those). I squeezed the radiator hoses and it sounded like they had crushed ice in them. At this point I closed up the garage and contemplated my next move. Ultimately, since I don't know a lot about the history of this truck, I opened up the wallet wrench last night.

I'm going to flush the block and heads, heater core, and radiator. I ordered a new thermostat, o-ring gasket for it, new thermostat housing (actually comes with the thermostat and gasket as a kit), water pump, upper hose, lower hose, and threaded heater hose fitting to replace the quick-connect fitting in the manifold, serpentine belt, and fan clutch. I already have antifreeze and 5/8" heater hose.

Tonight, I tore into it and got it all apart, except for the quick connect fitting. There was a whole lot of rusty clumps of crap stuck in the thermostat, upper hose, and thermostat housing. Tomorrow I'll start to flush everything out with clean water. Here are a couple phots of where I'm at now...

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I ordered a 195F thermostat for it and pulled out a 180F unit. Maybe I should put a 180F thermostat back in it again. I mean it is Florida, and I'll be running the AC almost year round. Hmmmm...
 

Scooterwrench

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Sounds like the radiator may be clogged. I reckon try to filter and save as much of your coolant as you can. Pull the block drains and to try to get it all. With the block drains out run set the thermostat housing back on without the thermostat and flow clean water backwards(down through the upper hose) through the engine to flush out as much debris as possible. Back flush the heater core. Reinstall the block drains and radiator leaving the upper hose off the radiator and fill with water and start the engine and flush the engine through in the normal flow direction. Goose the throttle a few times to boost the flow. Once you get nothing but clean water flowing shut the engine off,drain it all well, block drains included,back flush the heater core again and install your 195deg thermostat,do a leak test and refill it with your 50/50 coolant.
If you run a 180deg thermostat the engine will run rich unless you change the normal operating temp in the prom.
 

FLGS400

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Thank you Scooterwrench!

I think the radiator is OK. I'm going to flush that out too. The 180deg thermostat would explain why it ran a little rich before. I'll put the 195deg in it and see how that goes.
 

89GMCJOHN

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Thank you Scooterwrench!

I think the radiator is OK. I'm going to flush that out too. The 180deg thermostat would explain why it ran a little rich before. I'll put the 195deg in it and see how that goes.
If it were me I would run no stat until I felt the system was totally debris free. I haven't run a stat in any of my hotrods for yrs here in FL. All 375 to 440 horse builds. My 462 BBB was the same....my go to setup ,factory shroud ,severe duty 454 suburban type fan clutch and no stat ever. As you know it's so damx hot down here getting up to operating temp
takes no time and we never use our heaters here . What Buick do you have ? FWIW.
 

Scooterwrench

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If it were me I would run no stat until I felt the system was totally debris free. I haven't run a stat in any of my hotrods for yrs here in FL. All 375 to 440 horse builds. My 462 BBB was the same....my go to setup ,factory shroud ,severe duty 454 suburban type fan clutch and no stat ever. As you know it's so damx hot down here getting up to operating temp
takes no time and we never use our heaters here . What Buick do you have ? FWIW.
Obviously you have no clue what you're talking about. Even if he leaves the thermostat out where is the debris gonna go,just magically disappear? Electronically fuel injected engines rely on the ECT to determine correct fuel mixture and running an engine to cool can cause piston galling due to the pistons getting hot and swelling while the cylinder stays cool and doesn't expand. Then there is the moisture issue where the engine needs to get up to a suitable temperature to cook off the condensation that accumulated the last time you shut the engine down. Then there is the possible issue of the water flowing through the radiator so fast it doesn't have time to cool which can lead to overheating unless you at least run a flow restrictor.
 
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